Squidd.......Teach me.....DYI:Plumbing 101 on a SW Tank

leona

leona

Member

Originally posted by Leona
Just Peachy.........

So then to you squidd you really think we are SLOW learners. (about the pages)
I will check on those measurments and get back to you on that tomorrow.
Michael asked if we could use plexi glass for the baffles?Or should we stick to glass? How thick should the glass be he says about 1/4" thick. Is that about right?
 
evilbob22

evilbob22

Member
I have a question if you don't mind... How deep should the RP chamber be? I'm working on a setup for an odd shaped (low and wide) 145. I have a 55 that I'm using for the refugium and a 30 that I want to use as the sump. I'm having trouble getting enough overflow space, so I was wondering if I could keep the water level in the sump low. (If I use a HOB skimmer, the whole sump only needs to be deep enough for the pumps.)
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member

Originally posted by Leona
Just Peachy.........

So then to you squidd you really think we are SLOW learners.
You know...I always had this nagging feeling you guy's were a page or two "behind" me...

Now I know "why"...:yes:
Originally posted by Leona
Michael asked if we could use plexi glass for the baffles?Or should we stick to glass? How thick should the glass be he says about 1/4" thick. Is that about right?
You can if you want...but I like glass...
1. It's cheaper than a sheet of plexi or acrylic...
2. It won't "bend or bow" and pull loose fron the silicone
2.b It sticks and seals well to a glass tank with inexpensive silicone...
3. Tools needed are less expensive (if you don't have them)
4. You can scrape and clean it...
1/4" is perfect...
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member

Originally posted by EvilBob22
I have a question if you don't mind... How deep should the RP chamber be? (If I use a HOB skimmer, the whole sump only needs to be deep enough for the pumps.)
That will work "IF" you have ATO (automatic top off) to keep RP chamber level steady...
That's the only chamber "evaporation losses" will show up in...Could be as much as 2-3 gallons a day (depending on lighting/fans/humidity/etc...)
If the level goes too low the pump cavitates and can burn out...
 
leona

leona

Member

Originally posted by Squidd
Sounds good to me...:D
21" skimmer on a about a 4" "shelf" = 25"...you have 32" so there should be some 7" of "hand room" over the skimmer..
I say we take One of those inches for the overflow/skimmer/settling area..raise those baffles to 15"(B) and 14"(D) respectively...then there only a 3" drop from the fuge...
Lighting wont be a problem because it's over the fuge area and not the skimmer...
(Don't put lghts over the sump/pump/skimmer/overflow areas..you do NOT want algea to grow there...)
Revised........Did some math tonight.
TANK: 48 1/4"Lx24"Wx25"H
Inside Measurements of Stand:
51"Lx19"Wx28"L
Outside Measurements of Stand:
51"Lx25"Wx36"H
I'm following the plans for a stand from a fellow saltwaterfish.com poster Scott9311
You can see his plans
---> Stand & Canopy by Scott9311 to be used by Leona<----
 
leona

leona

Member
The dot com place were I might be getting the skimmer has a Sedra 3500 pump included.
Will that pump work good or should I still look into the mag drive? Have you worked with the Sedra's before?
Leona
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
"Tip Of The Day".....You BETTER Go with the SEDRA girl...
That has the "neede wheel" impeller and is the heart or key to the ASM and Euro Reef Performance...
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Still need the Inner dimentions of the "sump tank"...:D
I'll do up the cut list on the side and then send them out when there done....
As far as the return pump, I was thinking a Mag 18 and 1 1/4" line... which should do 1174 gph to the tank..and match the overflows perfectly...
 
leona

leona

Member

Originally posted by Squidd
Still need the Inner dimentions of the "sump tank"...:D
I'll do up the cut list on the side and then send them out when there done....
As far as the return pump, I was thinking a Mag 18 and 1 1/4" line... which should do 1174 gph to the tank..and match the overflows perfectly...
Will we still need the Mag 18 if we are going to use the Sedra?
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Yep...The Sedra is for the skimmer...it needs it's own pump to operate...
And then the Mag would be for the return (from the sump to the tank...)
And then we'll talk about a third for the C/L system....
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Starting from the pump in the sump...
1. A 3/4" FPT to 1 1/4" slip adaptor {3/4" FPT >female pipe thread< will "screw" on the the outlet of the pump...then a piece of 1 1/4" Spa Flex will "slip/glue" into the female "slip" end}
2. Then a 16" to 2' piece of Spa Flex (flexable PVC) ...this will get you up and out of the sump..."bend" towards the back of the stand and get you lined up for the Hard PVC to the tank...
It will also absorb any vibration from the pump and keep it from transfering to the tank and stand...
3. a 1 1/4" "union" or quick disconnect...this will allow you to disconect the pump from the system for cleaning and service...
4. Then an apropriate length of "thin wall" 1 1/4" PVC to get to top of tank...
5. Then a 90* "elbow"...to go towards the tank
6. Then a short piece of thinwall PVC to get over the Euro Bracing...
7. Another 90* elbow to go "down" into the tank...
8. Another short piece of PVC to get just below waters surface (1")...This is the piece you drill the 3/16" Anti siphon hole in...
9. At this pont you can either just let the water go "down" into the tank...or you could add (not glue) a 45* elbow on and "aim" it as a flow director...
6, 7, 8 and 9 can be "clear" if acrylic51 can get them for you...but being directly under the lights ...they may tend to grow algae in them...that's why I like the PVC...
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Often times you will see a "ball valve" on the return line...(it would go "above" 3 and before 4....)
But with the antisiphon hole, any time the pump is off...the line will be empty and you will be able to disconect it...
You will not need it (nor do I recomend) to "slow" the flow down from the pump...
If the pumpflow is "matched" to the overflow rating (it is) you will not need to "adjust" flow...
You can however put one on if you feel safer being able to "shut the system down" for any reason...
 
leona

leona

Member
Here are the inside measurments that were passed on to me
by acrylic51. Width of the tank is roughly 17 7/8" inside and length is 47 15/16" long... Might be off a 1/16" but that shouldn't come into account anyways...
Is that good enough?
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Ready to look at the Closed Loop portion of the system...??
No OceansMotions Flow director at this point...???
 
leona

leona

Member
Yes go ahead with the Closed Loop
For now NO. But depending on how my budget looks at the end. I might be able to squeeze it in. Maybe.
Leona
 
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