Squidd.......Teach me.....DYI:Plumbing 101 on a SW Tank

squidd

Active Member
Way out in the Boonies ...south carolina or arkansas I think, (haven't looked up their site lately...)
A "Stock" tank would be one they have "pre-made" and sitting on the shelf...Maybe, if they have the size you want, they could add the "extra" holes and bring it to the show...
Otherwise, if they "Custom Build" from scratch..it could take a couple weeks/months...
I checked into one a while back and that was pretty much their schedual...
Once you get past the initial e-mails and "commit" to a tank you will have to send them plans and layout for your "custom" drilling...
They will then take that and work with you as far as what will and what will not work...untill you are both happy with the finished plan...
We can work that up ahead of time, in this thread, but you may want to check further into their "time line" to see if that'll work for you/them....
 

dskidmore

Active Member

Originally posted by Leona
How should I explain that to glasscages? Were I want everything?

I've heard that they're very good at working with you to come up with the design. Just e-mail or call in your ideas and they'll draw up the plans and give you the price.
 

leona

Member
Cool thanks guys. So does this put my schooling on hold? Until we get the tank. Or can we go ahead with the other stuff if there is other stuff?
Leona
 

leona

Member
Hey Squidd were in WI are you? My mom side of the family live in the GreenBay/Appleton area.
Leona
 

dskidmore

Active Member

Originally posted by Leona
Cool thanks guys. So does this put my schooling on hold? Until we get the tank. Or can we go ahead with the other stuff if there is other stuff?
Leona

Last I knew it didn't take equiptment to learn theory. My SW tank plans are on hold indefinately (hubby out of work now) but I've still got all the lists of parts and calculations laid out for the tank I don't have. It's considerably cheaper to make design changes before buying the parts. I'm still debating alot of aspects of the DIY skimmer.... Anyway, back to the topic at hand.
 

squidd

Active Member
Northern Wi. Eagle River area, 20 some miles from the UP and Furter Nort den Parts of Canada eh...
We can go on with the rest of the equipment, with the "assumptons" made on the tank above...(exact details of holes to be determined)...
Actually, as we work out pumps and flow and line sizes, that determines bulkhead sizes which the tank MFG will need to know...
So, we're at 1000 -1200 gph from tank through overflow(s)...
Wheres it going...?...Down to the sump...
What kind of sump...?
Could be as "simple" as two rubbermaid tubs linked together..one for the "sump" and one for the fuge...
Or you may want to look into Glass cages building a sump tank to "fit" their stand.. then we (your husband) could baffle it out...
Or we could do something with the 29 and perhaps a 15 or 20 "tall" depending on under stand dimentions...
Or we could just talk "theory"...determine "Goal" sizing and look for containers from there...
 

squidd

Active Member
Basicly, water comes down from tank to "Overflow Drain Chamber" where it is partiallt "contained" to allow air and bubbles to dissapate before moving through sump...
Then the Skimmer is placed (either in sump or external) and as water flows past it a series of "Baffles" eliminates bubbles from reaching return pump..
Kind of like this..
 

squidd

Active Member
I edited the drawing...should look like this ...
With "Drain Chamber" water entering sump through slot on bottom of chamber rather than "bubbling" over top...
 

squidd

Active Member
In which case the water wouldn't be sitting so high in the drain chamber...
More like this...
 

leona

Member
"assume it" made on the tank above We also might be having glasscages put the lighting in also. I just asked Michael about that and he said it sounds good but not sure about that. My lighting will be 2-250wMH 10,000K and 2-96acitinic I'm pretty sure that will be ok.
So, we're at 1000 -1200 gph from tank through overflow(s)...
Wheres it going...?...Down to the sump...
What kind of sump...?
Could be as "simple" as two rubbermaid tubs linked together..one for the "sump" and one for the fuge...
Nah..
Or you may want to look into Glass cages building a sump tank to "fit" their stand.. then we (your husband) could baffle it out...
Can't push my luck.
Or we could do something with the 29 and perhaps a 15 or 20 "tall" depending on under stand dimentions...
I like this plan. Steveoutla had mentioned to put the 55g underthe 90. I didn't think that would work but what do you think. Then measurments I have from glasscages are outside measurements I believe. But it shouldn't change that much wright? 48x18x24 our current tank is 48x12 1/2x20 1/2
Or we could just talk "theory"...determine "Goal" sizing and look for containers from there... [/B]
This is were your expertise will come in handy as far as goal on sump/fuge.
 

squidd

Active Member
My lighting will be 2-250wMH 10,000K and 2-96acitinic I'm pretty sure that will be ok.
That sounds good...Your new tank is 48x18x24...? excellent coverage, good depth penitration, good mix...
They are building the stand a canopy as well correct...? So having then "fit" the lighting makes scence, but....make sure you compare pricing with other lighting MFGs ..installing a kit is not that hard...
...Nah...
...Can't push my luck...
...I like this plan...
Ok, no rubbermaids...I don't think the 55 will fit under the stand if it's 48" long, and we don't want to "push it" with hubby...:D so we're looking at the 29 and a sump...Is your 29...30"x12"x18"...?
If so that should leave us aprox. 16"X18" to fit a sump tank under the stand...a 20 tall is cheap and 24"x12"x16"and wont fit unless you keep the stand 6" from the wall..:nope: ...
Next choice is is a 15 tall at 20"X10"X12" and will fit with stand 2" from wall??? The Euro reef ES5-3 with a 8 1/2" x10" "footprint" will fit ...
Next choice is the 29 and a rubbermaid for the sump, but that limits baffle installation and I don't recomend it...
My choice would be to have GC build a 45"X 16" X 14" simple sump tank and "sweet talk" hubby into siliconing in some baffles for a "sweet deal" custom sump...:yes: (or a 40 "Breeder" see below)
Most effecient use of under tank space...and think of the "Pride" he'll have bringing the "Buds" over to show them his cool Dude DIY project...:joy: ... (Ya Gotta "play" the pride card)
It would be simple flat plate installation and he (or you:thinking: ) could handle it...
And the money you save DIY ing the lights that you price shopped will more than pay for the sump tank...:yes:
 

squidd

Active Member
In order to stay with the "simple" plumbing" plan I suggest a "submersable" return pump rather than bulkheads (cost) and external pump ...for the sump...
A Mag 12 with 1 1/4" line...coming OTT (over the top for antisiphon effect) will give you 1037 gph to the tank...
Right where we want to be...
Here's a pick of an OTT return line with "Anti siphon Hole"
The purpose of this is to keep water from "back washing" to the pump and draining the tank in a "power out" situation...
During power out, air will enter A/S hole and "break" the siphon effect...Tank will stay "almost" full at the level of A/S hole or Overflow standpipe (whichever is lower)
This is a "simple" drawing, and return will be "hidden" by canopy and rock work in "real life"...
 

squidd

Active Member
Now we're back to the sump/Fuge layout...
We want to "feed" the fuge "raw" (unskimmed) tank water and to do that we need to "divert" some flow from the Drain Lines....
This is shown with a HOB overflow but a built in would be similar...
The "key" here is the water "dropping out" to the fuge from the bottom of the "center" leg of a T fitting with a ball valve to control flow..
 

squidd

Active Member
Here's another from steveoutla showing a "Sumpfugium" that we're talking your hubby into building for you...:D
Nice "clean" looking set up don't you think...:thinking:
Much nicer than a "split tank" mixed bag setup...:yes:
This could be done with a 40 "Breeder" tank 36"X18"x16".. THE perfect tank size for this application..will fit and give the most "usable" space options under your stand..:jumping:
 

leona

Member
Originally posted by Squidd
That sounds good...Your new tank is 48x18x24...?48x18x25
They are building the stand a canopy as well correct...?
Yes, Stand is 48x18x24
LfS is wayyyyy to high and I really don't know were else to look that is that much cheaper. I checked out *********** and it was only a few dollars cheaper. If I calculated right. Cause you had to pay extra for 250w. Only thing I'm not sure is if glasscages will put the fans in or do I need to buy them and put them in?
Ok, no rubbermaids...I don't think the 55 will fit under the stand if it's 48" long, and we don't want to "push it" with hubby...:D so we're looking at the 29 and a sump...Is your 29...30"x12"x18"...?
30 1/4x12 1/2x18 1/2 all in inches
Also for the sump my LFS has smaller tanks 30 and under pretty cheap. I can check them out if you tell me what size?
You tell me...........Lost me again:notsure:
Next choice is is a 15 tall at 20"X10"X12" and will fit with stand 2" from wall???
Next choice is the 29 and a rubbermaid for the sump, but that limits baffle installation and I don't recomend it...
:nope:
My choice would be to have GC build a 45"X 16" X 14" simple sump tank and "sweet talk" hubby into siliconing in some baffles for a "sweet deal" custom sump...:yes: (or a 40 "Breeder" see below)
:eek: (might be in my budget. but let's keep a plan B.)
Most effecient use of under tank space...and think of the "Pride" he'll have bringing the "Buds" over to show them his cool Dude DIY project...:joy: ... (Ya Gotta "play" the pride card)
Pleeeeeeeeeaseeee........ (my deck of cards is almost gone
) There is only 1 friend that he has come over to brag things to. But most of the time the friend trys and outdo him. But it's a possability.:thinking:
 

leona

Member

Originally posted by Squidd
In order to stay with the "simple" plumbing" plan I suggest a "submersable" return pump rather than bulkheads (cost) and external pump ...for the sump...
A Mag 12 with 1 1/4" line...coming OTT (over the top for antisiphon effect) will give you 1037 gph to the tank...
Right where we want to be...
Here's a pick of an OTT return line with "Anti siphon Hole"
The purpose of this is to keep water from "back washing" to the pump and draining the tank in a "power out" situation...
During power out, air will enter A/S hole and "break" the siphon effect...Tank will stay "almost" full at the level of A/S hole or Overflow standpipe (whichever is lower)
This is a "simple" drawing, and return will be "hidden" by canopy and rock work in "real life"...

Do you remember in the begining of the thread when I said "It's like reading a science book. I can read it but it doesn't make any sense to me". Well I'm at that point on the post again.:confused:
What am I suppose to be learning from here? Is this something I'm going to do when I put everything together?
 

leona

Member

Originally posted by Squidd
"Sumpfugium" that (we're?)
talking your hubby into building for you...
You better start writing a Dear Michael Letter........the importance of the sumpfugium..:D
Nice "clean" looking set up don't you think...
:yes:
Much nicer than a "split tank" mixed bag setup...
Yuppers
This could be done with a 40 "Breeder" tank 36"X18"x16".. THE perfect tank size for this application..will fit and give the most "usable" space options under your stand..:jumping:

So I should look into the Breeder 36"x18"X16" tank from GC which will take the place of the 29 and a sump. Because that will be a Sumpfugium correct?
Also it looks like it will be march before we get the tank. Hopfully. The next delivery is in NY and we are going to go get it then if it's ready. If not we will have to have it shipped. Do you know if you have to put money down or pay it all at ounce?
That said it will give me more time to get more money.....:jumping: I asked (doesn't mean it will be) my allowance......:D to be 2000.00. I wonder if he (michael) needs his shoes shined lol
If I get the 2000.00 I SOOOOOOOOO can not go over that. I had better get a pretty coral to show off to him. OBTW.... I will need to get LR and LS (mixed with southdown) so that needs to be put into the budget. I'm working on the LR now looking at getting about 100lbs.
:sleepy:
:sleepy:

A Thank You to............
Squidd and everyone else helping me......
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!
 

leona

Member
I'm Calling GC's tomorrow. I need to know what I'm ordering or getting pricing for?
90G Long Tank
90G Stand
90G Canopy
Holes drilled? How many?
Corner overflows (2) what size?standard you said squidd?
Lighting
Fans? Drilling for fans? (2?)
40G breeder that is 36x18x16 would a 36x18x17 work?Glass or Acrylic?
ANYTHING else?
 

squidd

Active Member

Originally posted by Leona
I'm Calling GC's tomorrow. I need to know what I'm ordering or getting pricing for?
90G Long Tank Yep
90G Stand Yep
90G Canopy Yep
Holes drilled? How many? Yep, Looking for 5 total...(plus the overflows)4 of them 1 3/4" for 1" bulkheads (C/L outlets) and one 2 3/8" for 1 1/2" C/L inlet...3 in the back and 1 on each end)
Corner overflows (2) what size?standard you said squidd? Yep One each corner 1 3/4" hole for 1" drain no return from overflow
Lighting Yep, get his pricing on the "set" you mentioned...there may be "other" outlets..
Fans? Drilling for fans? (2?) No, you can do that once you get the canopy and size to fans later
40G breeder that is 36x18x16 would a 36x18x17 work?Glass or Acrylic? Either size is fine (cheaper) Glass or acrylic is your choice, depending on which you'd rather work with (baffles) I like glass, it's reallly cheap and easy to work, no "special tools or glues"
ANYTHING else? Euro bracing...?


Do you remember in the begining of the thread when I said "It's like reading a science book. I can read it but it doesn't make any sense to me". Well I'm at that point on the post again.
Yep, we can go through this again...I'll try to type S.L.O.W.E.R...:D
 

leona

Member
Euro Bracing? ????????5 total...(plus the overflows? You mean the overflows in the corner not 2 more holes correct?)
4- 1 3/4" for 1" bulkheads (C/L outlets)
1- 2 3/8" for 1 1/2" C/L inlet...
* Leona Language*
I will tell them i need,
1-Left Corner Overflow Hole: 1 3/4" hole drilled

1-Right Corner Overflow Hole: 1 3/4" hole drilled

1-Left Back Hole: 2 3/8"

1-Middle Back Hole: 1 3/4"

1-Right Back Hold: 1 3/4"

2-Standard Size Corner Overflows 1 on each coner

Is that it?
615 for the lighting. Whatcha think?
I'm off to eat before My daughter starts peuking:)thinking:) again. 2 months Viral Infection.......

So i'm told anyway.
 
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