Squidd.......Teach me.....DYI:Plumbing 101 on a SW Tank
- Thread starter leona
- Start date
leona
Member
4' RETROFIT 2MH 2 COMPACT FL 96W - PC KIT
$402.95
2 - Metal Halide bulb (See Option to Upgrade your Metal Halide and ballast to a higher Kelvin (Whiter & Bluer) and/or higher wattage (Brighter). For tank height 18" to 36" use MH 175W / 24" to 36" use MH 250W / 24" to 60" use MH 400W),2 - 96W Super Actinic Blue Compact Fluorescent Bulbs, High quality electro-white reflector. Dawn to dusk effect - one switch for the metal halides and one switch for the compact fluorescents. Dimensions: L48"xW9"xH5"
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$402.95
2 - Metal Halide bulb (See Option to Upgrade your Metal Halide and ballast to a higher Kelvin (Whiter & Bluer) and/or higher wattage (Brighter). For tank height 18" to 36" use MH 175W / 24" to 36" use MH 250W / 24" to 60" use MH 400W),2 - 96W Super Actinic Blue Compact Fluorescent Bulbs, High quality electro-white reflector. Dawn to dusk effect - one switch for the metal halides and one switch for the compact fluorescents. Dimensions: L48"xW9"xH5"
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squidd
Active Member
Originally posted by Leona Euro Bracing? ????????
That's a glass brace or "rim" that goes around the top edge of the tank...rather than "cross bracing" which goes "across" the center...Euro bracing leaves a more "open" center and from what I've seen most of his tanks are done that way.
5 total...(plus the overflows? You mean the overflows in the corner not 2 more holes correct?)
Correct
4- 1 3/4" for 1" bulkheads (C/L outlets)
1- 2 3/8" for 1 1/2" C/L inlet...
Correct
* Leona Language*
I will tell them i need,
1-Left End panel Hole: 1 3/4" hole drilled
1-Right End panel Hole: 1 3/4" hole drilled
1-Left Back Hole: 1 3/4"
1-Middle Back Hole: 2 3/8"
1-Right Back Hold: 1 3/4"
2-Standard Size Corner Overflows 1 on each coner
Is that it?
615 for the lighting. Whatcha think?
Installed...?
I'm off to eat before My daughter starts peuking
thinking again. 2 months Viral Infection.......
So i'm told anyway.
That's a glass brace or "rim" that goes around the top edge of the tank...rather than "cross bracing" which goes "across" the center...Euro bracing leaves a more "open" center and from what I've seen most of his tanks are done that way.
5 total...(plus the overflows? You mean the overflows in the corner not 2 more holes correct?)
Correct
4- 1 3/4" for 1" bulkheads (C/L outlets)
1- 2 3/8" for 1 1/2" C/L inlet...
Correct
* Leona Language*
I will tell them i need,
1-Left End panel Hole: 1 3/4" hole drilled
1-Right End panel Hole: 1 3/4" hole drilled
1-Left Back Hole: 1 3/4"
1-Middle Back Hole: 2 3/8"
1-Right Back Hold: 1 3/4"
2-Standard Size Corner Overflows 1 on each coner
Is that it?
615 for the lighting. Whatcha think?
Installed...?
I'm off to eat before My daughter starts peuking
thinking again. 2 months Viral Infection.......
So i'm told anyway.
dskidmore
Active Member
Originally posted by Squidd
Now we're back to the sump/Fuge layout...
We want to "feed" the fuge "raw" (unskimmed) tank water and to do that we need to "divert" some flow from the Drain Lines....
Hrm.... Something I forgot to think about. I was going for an overhead refugium, fed from a split on the sump return line. Guess I'll have to plan for a second pump, or side-by side. That would get rid of the pump wear issues from trying to push the water that high, with the main return line restricted to up the pressure enough.
Sorry to interrupt the class teach!
squidd
Active Member
Originally posted by DSkidmore
Hrm.... I was going for an overhead refugium, fed from a split on the sump return line. Guess I'll have to plan for a second pump, or side-by side. That would get rid of the pump wear issues from trying to push the water that high, with the main return line restricted to up the pressure enough.
It would be hard to get the MT to drain "up"...
In this case I would go with a second (smaller) dedicated pump (in main tank, possibly hid in overflow chamber)to get the benifit of "raw" tank water feeding the critters...and not have to lose any flow from the "main" return pump due to "excess" head...
Sorry to interrupt the class teach !
We have "Ways" of dealing with Trouble Makers...
leona
Member
Originally posted by DSkidmore
Hrm.... Something I forgot to think about. I was going for an overhead refugium, fed from a split on the sump return line. Guess I'll have to plan for a second pump, or side-by side. That would get rid of the pump wear issues from trying to push the water that high, with the main return line restricted to up the pressure enough.
Sorry to interrupt the class teach!
I'm not even going to try and understand this one............
squidd
Active Member
In order to stay with the "simple" plumbing" plan I suggest a "submersable" return pump rather than bulkheads (cost) and external pump ...for the sump...
A Mag 12 with 1 1/4" line...coming OTT (over the top for antisiphon effect) will give you 1037 gph to the tank...
Right where we want to be...
Let's go back to the sump...and review...
We got the water "down" to the sump through the Overflow...
It goes past/through the Skimmer and does it's "thing" (protien fractionalization) and then we need to get it back "Up" to the tank...
This is where the "Return Pump" comes in...
There are many makes and models and "sizes", but really only two "types" we need to think about...
Either a "Submersable" pump..one that sits "IN" the sump.."IN" the water and pumps directly to the tank..
Or an "External" pump that sits "Outside" the sump and is fed through a bulkhead in the side of the sump...to pump...and then to the tank...
As both types of pumps come in a varity of sizes, it's not so much "Which one pumps more water?" as it is in "How" they do it...
The External because it sits "outside" the tank is generally thought to transfer "less" heat to the tank because the motor is exposed to air for cooling (some have fans)...and can sometimes be easier to work on being more "exposed"...
Although they can sometimes be "noisier" as well...
The Submersible pump sits "In" the water and runs quite a bit quieter because of that, although the motor is sitting in the water and can/does transfer a bit of heat...as well as being a bit messier to work on...
Now Both typs have their "exceptions" some Externals are quiet and some transfer a lot of heat...and some Submersibles run cool but can also "rattle and vibrate and drive you nuts...
As the Submersibles are "generally" cheaper and much easier to hook up (this is plumbing 101.. ) as well as quieter, I "suggested" a Mag Drive pump as the choice for this installation...
As our "Goal Flow" from/to the sump is to be ~1000 gph (gallons per hour) I "suggested" the Mag 12 as it will pump right around 1037 gph - 5' head through 1 1/4" line....
Right where we want to be...for our "Goal"...
I'll get to "Head" and "line size" and how they affect flow next...
A Mag 12 with 1 1/4" line...coming OTT (over the top for antisiphon effect) will give you 1037 gph to the tank...
Right where we want to be...
Let's go back to the sump...and review...
We got the water "down" to the sump through the Overflow...
It goes past/through the Skimmer and does it's "thing" (protien fractionalization) and then we need to get it back "Up" to the tank...
This is where the "Return Pump" comes in...
There are many makes and models and "sizes", but really only two "types" we need to think about...
Either a "Submersable" pump..one that sits "IN" the sump.."IN" the water and pumps directly to the tank..
Or an "External" pump that sits "Outside" the sump and is fed through a bulkhead in the side of the sump...to pump...and then to the tank...
As both types of pumps come in a varity of sizes, it's not so much "Which one pumps more water?" as it is in "How" they do it...
The External because it sits "outside" the tank is generally thought to transfer "less" heat to the tank because the motor is exposed to air for cooling (some have fans)...and can sometimes be easier to work on being more "exposed"...
Although they can sometimes be "noisier" as well...
The Submersible pump sits "In" the water and runs quite a bit quieter because of that, although the motor is sitting in the water and can/does transfer a bit of heat...as well as being a bit messier to work on...
Now Both typs have their "exceptions" some Externals are quiet and some transfer a lot of heat...and some Submersibles run cool but can also "rattle and vibrate and drive you nuts...
As the Submersibles are "generally" cheaper and much easier to hook up (this is plumbing 101..
) as well as quieter, I "suggested" a Mag Drive pump as the choice for this installation...As our "Goal Flow" from/to the sump is to be ~1000 gph (gallons per hour) I "suggested" the Mag 12 as it will pump right around 1037 gph - 5' head through 1 1/4" line....
Right where we want to be...for our "Goal"...
I'll get to "Head" and "line size" and how they affect flow next...
dskidmore
Active Member
Originally posted by Squidd
You might think..."The Mag 12..isn't that "rated" at 1200 gph...?"
"Where did he get 1037 from...?"
Well... I'm not going to tell you...
OK... Fine...
...I'll tell you...Tommorrow...:hilarious
Meanie.
I'm guessing you looked at the power graph of the pump.
(For Leona, since the teacher's on break.) Good quality water pumps have a power graph somewhere in the manual or technical data. If you're lucky, it's on the side of the box. Water is heavy, therefore the further up you have to push water, the harder the pump has to work, and the slower the water will run. The power graph generally looks like the right half of a hill. The greater the height, the less water flow. You can look on the graph at a specific height and tell how much actual flow you will get out of the pump.
squidd
Active Member
...and then you factor in line size, 90* and 45* elbows, valves, outlets, couplers and any other restrictions that may affect flow, such as "T"s spraybars and number of outlets..
Then once you get the "mean restrictive factor" figured out you apply it to a "rating chart" that very rarely tells you what size line they used to guage their ratings in the first place...
So then you go back to enginering specs to "find" gross flow at point of outlet, divide by effeciency ratio and factor in the relative barometric pressure (and mean elevation)of the factory they were tested in and compare that to your present situation...
Then once you get the "mean restrictive factor" figured out you apply it to a "rating chart" that very rarely tells you what size line they used to guage their ratings in the first place...
So then you go back to enginering specs to "find" gross flow at point of outlet, divide by effeciency ratio and factor in the relative barometric pressure (and mean elevation)of the factory they were tested in and compare that to your present situation...