Squidd.......Teach me.....DYI:Plumbing 101 on a SW Tank

leona

leona

Member
Couple things. I called Tom and spoke to his wife. She doesn't "THINK" that the tank has been drilled for holes YET. But she is unsure. I did recommend IF it wasn't drilled yet I would like to change the 1 1/2" to 2" in the center back . Correct? I will let you know as soon as I know.
Also I asked about when will I be able to fill the tank. She said that it's "3 weeks from the DATE of manufactor".
Also there is NOT much price difference between the Mag 18 or the Mag 24 and I'm thinking of going the Mag 24 will that cause any problems?
Leona
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
I think we've talked about Sched 80 vs Sched 40 bulkheads before!!!! Sched 80 bulkheads require a bigger mounting hole than Sched 40... I think this is what Tom is talking about.. You have to advise him and let him know what bulkheads you will be using... He recommends Sched 80 bulkheads for his tank...
I would use the Sched 80 and had mine drilled for Sched 80 and this means that you can't go back and use Sched 40 bulkheads due to the mounting holes being bigger so the Sched 40 bulkheads won't fit the Sched 80 holes....
I would change and have the bulkhead hold drilled for a Sched 80 2" bulkhead.. Plenty of water to feed your CL pump
I looked at my paperwork for my tank and Tom has written wait 30 days before adding water... When you pick it up he will give you instructions as well
I would opt for the Mag 24 over the 18 anytime and the price isn't bad on the 24
Going to try to send 2 pics hope it works never done it before!!!!
 
leona

leona

Member
acyrilc slowwwwwwww down.
I PLANNED all along for the 80. I NEVER mentioned the 40 to Tom. We just made a mistake on the size hole we put down then the size hole tom will need to drill for the 80.
As far as the pumps ..............I'm working on it..
RELAX.........BREATH.................Go have a cigarett...maybe a beer too.
Leona
 
leona

leona

Member

Originally posted by acrylic51
I looked at my paperwork for my tank and Tom has written wait 30 days before adding water... When you pick it up he will give you instructions as well

But if the Date of manufactor is let's say 3/11/05 and we pick it up on 3/18/05 (because of manufactor date is has already been done for 1 week) then add 3 weeks onto that which is............4/08/2005 that DOES total 4weeks in my book.
Am I right? Anyone?
It will just have to sit in my house empty for 3 weeks.
This ALL depends on what the Manufactor DAte says. That is what I was told.
Leona
 
evilbob22

evilbob22

Member
That sounds about right Leona (except your typo: it's 4/08/2005, not 3/08/2005)
Either way, go by whatever Tom tells you... he's the expert
 
leona

leona

Member
Thanks EvilBob2 I make alot of typo's. HEHE

My husband says i have my own dictionary.
I like looking at it at the 3 week mark only cause then I don't have to stair at an empty tank for 1 week longer :)
I will go back and edit my mistake thanks.
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member

Originally posted by Leona
Couple things....
Also there is NOT much price difference between the Mag 18 or the Mag 24 and I'm thinking of going the Mag 24 will that cause any problems?
Leona

I would opt for the Mag 24 over the 18 anytime and the price isn't bad on the 24

As many of the components for each phase are interdependant on each other for "balance" we will refer back to the "Big Picture" (combined Goals) to be sure they complement each other... (pg.1)
The mag 18 with 1 1/4" return line wil deliver 1162 gph which is right at the Max of your overflows (1200gph)...
It will do this with no restrictive control and at less amp draw than the Mag 24...
The Mag 24 would use more energy ($), add more heat, Have to be restricted to work, and be subject to more strain (shortened life...)
What possible advantage could there be to using the Mag 24 over the 18...???
 
leona

leona

Member
hmmmmmmmmm generally.............

J/k If that's what think I should stick with then I WILL STICK with the Mag 18 and still waiting for Tom at glasscages on the return pump.
Leona
 
leona

leona

Member
Just got an email from Tom he changed the hole size to fit a 2" schd 80 bulkhead.
With that,
I am going to order the mag 18, swquence dart.
Next?
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
If they make it a sticky, it'll always be at the top of the page where peope can see it...
and it might "NEVER END"...:scared:
:hilarious
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member

Originally posted by Leona
Just got an email from Tom he changed the hole size to fit a 2" schd 80 bulkhead.
With that,
I am going to order the mag 18, swquence dart.
Next?
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Now that we have the C/L pump picked out, I suppose we could "refine" the C/L plumbing layout and "Maniflod" sizing to the tank..
Are you secure with the pump in the cabinet on the side as pictured above ?? (noise issues, heat, etc...)
I know you were looking into soundproofing and ventilation...
 
leona

leona

Member
:yes: go ahead with the fine tuning. I'm still looking into soundproofing & ventalating the cabinet with the something still not sure yet. So if anyone has any ideas please feel free to post. Just keep in mind the cabinet can not be totaly closed up. I will need to get into the cabinet for cleaning and fixing etc. I have also thought of using a fan & exaust fan in the cabinet.
Here is a picture but I don't think this would help with soundproofing.
The pump will be inlined with the tank correct?
Leona
 
dskidmore

dskidmore

Active Member

Originally posted by Leona
It will just have to sit in my house empty for 3 weeks.
Not all that time will be boring, you've got alot of plumming to do, a sump to set up, equiptment to arrange and re-arrange...
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
OK, just my thoughts on pump noise/sound proofing...
Yes, pumps make noise...
Are they a grinding jackhammer in your living room vibrating the floor and disturbing your sleep..??
No...
More like a mufled "whir" in the background most of the sound comes from the fan on the pump and in a cabinet up against the wall becomes part of the background "noise" and "most" people just kinda get used to it...
Now..if you close up the cabinet and insulate it with sound proofing material, you lose the noise, but start building heat..
So you cut a hole in the cabinet and add a fan for cooling and what are you listening to...??
A fan "whrring" in the background..except now you have two running...:thinking:
Basicly, between the slight gurgling from the overflows, the fans on the lights, the hum of the ballasts, the whir from the pump just kinda "blends in" and really is not that big a deal...
I think my computer fan(s) make more noise...:yes:
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Looking at the "back" of the tank, there is an advantage to running manifold "over" C/L intake bulkhead, with feeder lines OTT to the front and dropping to the Back wall..
Then "dropping" the C/L pump intake line and coming across to the pump...
This way lines do not have to "cross over" each other and and tank can be placed closer to wall....
Starting with 2" bulkhead drilled center back of tank...2" elbow down... ballvalve/union (these two are optional)...down to elbow ...then towards pump....ballvalve/union (to remove pump for maintainence...pump intake...
From pump output...2" ...union/ballvalve (maintainence)....up...2" elbow to "Manifold" across back of tank..."T" off with 1" line and ball valve to control each C/L outlet...Two over top to front...two drop down to back C/L inlets (add union to make manifold removeable)
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Side view showing clearance for sump return next to tank....
Between the bulkhead "extention and the width of the C/L elbows...the Sump return has room against the tank to return OTT..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top