Squidd.......Teach me.....DYI:Plumbing 101 on a SW Tank
- Thread starter leona
- Start date
squidd
Active Member
The C/L Manifold crosses the back of the tank "horizontally" (side to side)..
The sump Return has to cross the tank "verticly" (below stand to top of tank)
So somewhere they have to cross..
The C/L piping will hang off the back of the tank 2" or so due to the bulkheads and elbows...so there is room to run the sump "return" line between it and the tank...
I'll puy it on the first pic..
The sump Return has to cross the tank "verticly" (below stand to top of tank)
So somewhere they have to cross..
The C/L piping will hang off the back of the tank 2" or so due to the bulkheads and elbows...so there is room to run the sump "return" line between it and the tank...
I'll puy it on the first pic..
edwar050
Member
Again thanks for the info. I think I have found a good skimmer, ASM and when I move in two months I plan to install a 30 sump/fuge on my 55. Mag pump or quiet one and where to get a good/cheap overflow? I would like to get a 10 sump and use the 30 as a refuge, is it possible under a 55 without spending mega $$$.
Thanks for all of the help, good stuff leona and squidd.
Brad
:jumping:
Thanks for all of the help, good stuff leona and squidd.
Brad
:jumping:
leona
Member
Edwar050, The best thing you can do is shop around. As for the Mag Drives I know a few dot com places but you would need to email me cause we can't post them here. I'm not sure about the HOB overflows I'm not sure.
Sorry.
LeonasAngels@comcast.net
Leona
Sorry.
LeonasAngels@comcast.net
Leona
squidd
Active Member
Originally posted by Leona
so it looks like
6 ball valves is there a size?
Is that another Bal Valve I see on the C/L intake (Red piping)?
5 Unions. Size?
Right?
Let's take this a "section" at a time...
For the C/L "Intake" line..
Starting from the center back of the tank..you have a 2" bulkhead supplied by Glass Cages...
To that you will add...
1. A 2" MPT to 2" PVC "slip" adaptor ....then a short piece of 2" PVC
2. Then a 90* "elbow" pointing down...
3. Then a 2" Ball valve and 2" union ...(these parts are "optional" but reccomended allowing you to shut the tank down right at the back of the tank)
4. 90* elbow and Length of 2" PVC to cabinet
5. 2" Ball Valve and Union (these parts are "accessable" from cabinet and allow pump maintainence)
6. 2" Slip to MPT adaptor (to connect to pump..)
For the C/L "Output" Manifold...
Starting at the pump....
1. A 2" MPT to Slip fit PVC adaptor
2. Union and then Ball Valve (for pump maintainence)
3. Length of 2" PVC (up)
4. 90* PVC elbow...(towards tank)
5. 2" pipe
6. You'll need (3) 2"x1"x2" slip "T"s and short pieces of 2" pipe to line up with left OTT outlet and both lower back outlets...
7. Then a 2" 90* elbow with a 2" to 1" slip adaptor for the far right OTT outlet...
8. For each OTT 1" outlet, you will need...1" pipe, 1" ball Valve (to control flow) 90* elbow (to get over tank) pipe to front, 45* elbow to get inside Eurobracing, 90* elbow to go down in tank and a 45* non glued elbow to "aim" flow....
9. For each "Lower back outlet" you will need...1" pipe 1" union (to disconnect Manifold from tank) 1" Ball valve (to control flow and shut tank down) a 90* elbow and a 1" slip PVC to 1" MPT adaptor to connect to bulkhead (from G.C.)
This is for the C/L system..you still need to get the parts mentoned eariler for the sump return and OTT return line...
By my count you need...
(1) 10' section 2" PVC (thin wall schd 30) pipe
(1) 10' section 1" PVC (thin wall schd 30) pipe
(3) 2" unions
(2) 1" unions
(3) 2" Ball Valves
(4) 1" Ball Valves
(4) 2" 90* ellbows
(6) 1" 90* elbows
(4) 1" 45* elbows
(1) 2" to 1" slip adaptor
(3) 2" MPT to 2" slip adaptors
(2) 1" slip to 1" MPT adaptors...and
(God knows What Else
)If you've followed my "other" plumbing thread....you'll know it takes at LEAST 6 trips to the Hdwr Store to do a plumbing job...
But this should give you a good start...
leona
Member
I have followed your other thread and I did see how many times you had to go to the Hardware store. I'm hoping I can make that shorter times then more. I have my notebook printing printing printing.
So will there be letters on each peice of PVC so I can follow it? You know like when you buy furniture from the store and put it together at home? Hope so. Or I might put this together wrong.
:nervous: Just so you know I'm kidding.
Leona
So will there be letters on each peice of PVC so I can follow it? You know like when you buy furniture from the store and put it together at home? Hope so. Or I might put this together wrong.
:nervous: Just so you know I'm kidding.
Leona
squidd
Active Member
Originally posted by Leona
..So will there be letters on each peice of PVC so I can follow it?
:nervous: Just so you know I'm kidding.
Leona
Hope so...
I started with "letters and lines"...
Ran out of letters and had so many lines It started to look like a spiderweb or grid pattern..
And don't forget the Primer, Glue and Teflon Tape...
leona
Member
Originally posted by Squidd
Let's take a look at the "Duso Style" stand pipe...
Can be built from Hdwr store parts for a couple bucks
I suggest an "airvalve" for fine tuning the air supply, which affects flow through pipe and "quiet" opperation...
Here's a "list" of parts for a 1" bulkhead/drain line...Correct procedure is to "upsize" it by 1 ...
IE: a 1" bulkhead /drain uses a 1 1/4" pipe and a 3/4" bulkhead/drain uses a 1" pipe..
There is a dursostandpipe "site" on one of the dot com type places where you can learn all about the opperation and design of this effective and quiet standpipe....
Do you know by chance how tall this stand pipe will be. I was reading that dotcom place and I'm still not sure were the water line will be and all. I'm trying to decide if I will have OF tops made also.
Leona
leona
Member
Squidd,
I'm trying to piece together this thread in a notebook for future refrences but I'm having a hard time deciding what should go into the notbook (the one i'm putting together). Any recomendations?
Kinda like an over cap of the pages?
I figure I would print out each picture (that you so kindly drew up) and make the notes on those pages.
Also, Did i miss a baffle or two. I only see One drawn out.
Leona
I'm trying to piece together this thread in a notebook for future refrences but I'm having a hard time deciding what should go into the notbook (the one i'm putting together). Any recomendations?
Kinda like an over cap of the pages?
I figure I would print out each picture (that you so kindly drew up) and make the notes on those pages.
Also, Did i miss a baffle or two. I only see One drawn out.
Leona
squidd
Active Member
Originally posted by Leona
Squidd,
I'm trying to piece together this thread in a notebook for future refrences but I'm having a hard time deciding what should go into the notbook (the one i'm putting together). Any recomendations?
>>>Well...It's ALL Good...
<<<Kinda like an over cap of the pages?
>>>I could give you the "pages" but I'm on page 16 now...so you might be off a page or two...
I figure I would print out each picture (that you so kindly drew up) and make the notes on those pages.
Also, Did i miss a baffle or two. I only see One drawn out.
>>>There should be several pages/drawings of baffles...Which ones are you looking for...(I have copies)<<<
Leona
squidd
Active Member
As far as editing it down to a reasonable size..just grab the stuff that applies to the 120 your building....
Skip the stuff on HOB oveflows and the stuff on the 55 and 90...
Sort through and toss all the "options" and discussions and keep the "decisions" ...
Probably just need the "last" of a "series" of drawings (finished product) not the steps and "changes" we made along the way...
The "math has been done so you can forget the "formulas" but keep the results and "Goals" for future reference...
Cut the jokes, arguing, snide remarks and about a bazillion smilies... .... and you should get it down to two or three "usable" pages...
Skip the stuff on HOB oveflows and the stuff on the 55 and 90...
Sort through and toss all the "options" and discussions and keep the "decisions" ...
Probably just need the "last" of a "series" of drawings (finished product) not the steps and "changes" we made along the way...
The "math has been done so you can forget the "formulas" but keep the results and "Goals" for future reference...
Cut the jokes, arguing, snide remarks and about a bazillion smilies...
.... and you should get it down to two or three "usable" pages...
squidd
Active Member
Originally posted by Leona
Do you know by chance how tall this stand pipe will be. I was reading that dotcom place and I'm still not sure were the water line will be and all. I'm trying to decide if I will have OF tops made also.
Leona
Depends (a little) on if you have "teeth" cut into the OF covers or not....your choice, I don't use them...
I would set the "center" of the loop of the upside down "J" 1" below the level you want the tank to set...
That will be either 1" below the top of the glass OFs (stock) or 1 3/8" below the bottom of the slots of the "teeth" in the OF covers...