Squidd.......Teach me.....DYI:Plumbing 101 on a SW Tank

leona

Member
Well I guess I can't do my sump this weekend. They are closed on the weekend.
That's going to be hard isn't it to do the sump in the stand?
 

squidd

Active Member
Is the stand "built" yet...??
You don't have the tank yet either, do you...?
Plenty of time to get it built on a nice work table and set in stand before you place the tank...
 

squidd

Active Member
Sooooo....
It's NOT built yet..and between cutting, gluing, nailing, sanding, and finishing, sanding, finishing....etc...
You will have more than enough time to get the glass cut..silicone it in place and still wait around for the paint to dry...

You are going to have to wake Michael up even EARLIER and keep him up even LATER to keep this project on schedual...
You got your work cut out for you..CRACK that Whip...:hilarious
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Hey Squidd she worked him hard on Sunday, but Micheal was ready to go back to work after this weekend!!!!! Just kidding Leona!!!!!!
Post some pics!!!!!!! I've seem them but what I've seen looks good... Tell Michael when he's done I'll pick him up and he can finish mine up as well!!!!!!
 

hondaeg95

New Member
Originally posted by Squidd
It's main purpose is to regulate the level of water "in" the tank (keep it steady) and have the ability to "stop" and "restart" flow if the power to the pump goes out....and needs to be sized large enough to keep up with the flow returning from the pump....
[/B]
OK, first i have to say, the info i get from this place is the best!
my brother and i have had a 90gal. reef-tank running for the last nine months, and in the last four or so we have had a fuge going. everything was going great until we lost power, then the "fun" started.
we are using an AMIRACLE overflow box, with a 1" U tube. we had a pretty bad wind storm, and it knocked out our power for 15 sec's or so. in doing this, the siphon to the fuge broke, but the pump started back up, and began to empty the fuge back into the MT.
so are we doing somthing wrong? i suggested just drilling the tank and using bulkheads, but i would rather that be the last option. i
get why the siphon broke, being that the skimmer box drained water into the sump until the "teeth" of the skimmer box were above the water line. but how can i get the siphon to restart, as to keep up with the pump? and prevent overflow?
would using the CPR box, with the air lifter assist, solve this problem? or can the same effect be obtained with the classic U tube? any help would be greatly appericated!
by the way we were home, so we caught the problem before it became 10 gals. or so on the floor.
thanks again for any help!!
 

evilbob22

Member
You are not going to be able to get the siphon to restart by itself, you have to keep it from breaking in the first place. Both ends of the U tube need to be lower than the standpipe. When the power goes out, the water is going to keep draining until it gets below the level of the standpipe (which is the lowest "opening" you have) and if your tube in the inside-the-tank side is above the standpipe, it will hit air and break the siphon.
 

leona

Member
Well everyone the stand is still being built and I guess my husband is not the super man I thought he was so we are still working on it.
I finally got the baffles ordered but they won't be done until the end of the week.
So until then.
Leona
 

leona

Member
Hey Squidd,
Important question? Were will the plumbing be going on the top half of the cabinets were the pump will go correct? So I can close off the bottom of the half cabinets?
Will the bottom half of the cabinets have any plumbing running through the bottom cabinets?
Leona
 

squidd

Active Member
All the Closed Loop plumbing will be "above" the bottom of the tank...
With the pump going into the right "side" cabinet above "stand" level...
So the right side cabinet "below" stand level can be closed back...
And actualy, the cabinet "above" stand height can be closed back as well...
The pipes (inlet and manifold) go through the "side" of the cabinet behind the tank...in that "extra" 5" you added...
So other than for "ventilation" purposes it can be closed as well...
The back of the "stand" can be closed as well, other than a hole for the return line to go up and get behind the tank...
Most of your "access" (after the tank is set up) to the valves and back of the tank will be from the "left" side where you so thoughtfully added a "removeable" panel...:D
 

squidd

Active Member
Give yourself some room...Make them at least an inch bigger than the OD of the pipe going through them to keep them from "touching" and transfering "vibrations" (noise)...
Or you could just leave a "section of the 5" side out...(pipe to pipe ) for ventilation behind the tank...
 
T

tizzo

Guest
Just an interuption here... I don't know where you are in this convo since it's way to long to read now. I think this is prolly the longest thread ever!! If I ever have plumbing/sump questions Squidd, be prepared to go through this all over again!!
 
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