T5 vs Metal Halide debate answered
- Thread starter baytran7
- Start date
baytran7
Member
Who is arguing? Oceana has a good point that our fishtank should look it's best so we should get the best light for it. This is a topic where we are deciding what is the most efficient lighting for a fishtank and informing newbies on their lighting decisions. All I want is for people to post numbers or results of their fishtanks, "I don't care about waaa waaaa, my Daddy is smarter then your Daddy comments.". You can start another post in THE AQUARIM topic labeled "My Daddy rules, and I love him."
1journeyman, watts is watts, if you clarify that horsepower is horsepower we can discuss that as a metaphor for our hobby. if you fill up a tank of gas in a Full size truck (MH since it's the most watt consuming light) and a fill up in a motorcycle (T5 since it's the most efficient thing currently), what will cost more and still get you from A to B? To get back to topic, i've been running T5s for 6 years, in those 6 years i've kept acros, zoas, leathers, montis, acans, rics, brains (I don't keep cheap brown stuff), I've only had a ritteri anenome and a goniopora die on me.
1journeyman, watts is watts, if you clarify that horsepower is horsepower we can discuss that as a metaphor for our hobby. if you fill up a tank of gas in a Full size truck (MH since it's the most watt consuming light) and a fill up in a motorcycle (T5 since it's the most efficient thing currently), what will cost more and still get you from A to B? To get back to topic, i've been running T5s for 6 years, in those 6 years i've kept acros, zoas, leathers, montis, acans, rics, brains (I don't keep cheap brown stuff), I've only had a ritteri anenome and a goniopora die on me.
oceana
Active Member
Originally Posted by baytran7
Who is arguing? Oceana has a good point that our fishtank should look it's best so we should get the best light for it. This is a topic where we are deciding what is the most efficient lighting for a fishtank and informing newbies on their lighting decisions. All I want is for people to post numbers or results of their fishtanks, "I don't care about waaa waaaa, my Daddy is smarter then your Daddy comments.". You can start another post in THE AQUARIM topic labeled "My Daddy rules, and I love him."
1journeyman, watts is watts, if you clarify that horsepower is horsepower we can discuss that as a metaphor for our hobby. if you fill up a tank of gas in a Full size truck (MH since it's the most watt consuming light) and a fill up in a motorcycle (T5 since it's the most efficient thing currently), what will cost more and still get you from A to B? To get back to topic, i've been running T5s for 6 years, in those 6 years i've kept acros, zoas, leathers, montis, acans, rics, brains (I don't keep cheap brown stuff), I've only had a ritteri anenome and a goniopora die on me.
I dont think you were arguing anything. simply debate with different opinions. since we both dont have all sorts of fancy equipment to test for real number we can only go by what works for us. for me when put side by side the mh comes out way on top. But that does not mean what works for me works for everyone. the problem with t5 right now is 90 percent of the people talking about how great they are dont even have them and they are just jumping on the trend train. thats how so much miss information has gotten out there. like i said they are both good sources of light.
BTW Cant blame the lights on those last two. chances are they would have died not matter what tank they went in.
to the guy buying the icecap unit. although the bulbs are good for around 1 year the 660 bunrs them to the fullest and i find that the bulbs usable light is cut almost in half by around 7 months tops. for the sake of your corals i dont not advice waiting a year to change them. GL to ya
Who is arguing? Oceana has a good point that our fishtank should look it's best so we should get the best light for it. This is a topic where we are deciding what is the most efficient lighting for a fishtank and informing newbies on their lighting decisions. All I want is for people to post numbers or results of their fishtanks, "I don't care about waaa waaaa, my Daddy is smarter then your Daddy comments.". You can start another post in THE AQUARIM topic labeled "My Daddy rules, and I love him."
1journeyman, watts is watts, if you clarify that horsepower is horsepower we can discuss that as a metaphor for our hobby. if you fill up a tank of gas in a Full size truck (MH since it's the most watt consuming light) and a fill up in a motorcycle (T5 since it's the most efficient thing currently), what will cost more and still get you from A to B? To get back to topic, i've been running T5s for 6 years, in those 6 years i've kept acros, zoas, leathers, montis, acans, rics, brains (I don't keep cheap brown stuff), I've only had a ritteri anenome and a goniopora die on me.
I dont think you were arguing anything. simply debate with different opinions. since we both dont have all sorts of fancy equipment to test for real number we can only go by what works for us. for me when put side by side the mh comes out way on top. But that does not mean what works for me works for everyone. the problem with t5 right now is 90 percent of the people talking about how great they are dont even have them and they are just jumping on the trend train. thats how so much miss information has gotten out there. like i said they are both good sources of light.
BTW Cant blame the lights on those last two. chances are they would have died not matter what tank they went in.
to the guy buying the icecap unit. although the bulbs are good for around 1 year the 660 bunrs them to the fullest and i find that the bulbs usable light is cut almost in half by around 7 months tops. for the sake of your corals i dont not advice waiting a year to change them. GL to ya
matt819
Member
I'd like to add that I do currently run t5s...my soft corals are going crazy. I just would like to have the best t5 setup I can get...with the best reflectors. Hopefully I can prove a point. It's gonna cost about $350, with bulbs and everything...which is a pretty good price in comparison to mh, which is of a significant importance to me and many others imo.
matt819
Member
It's been proven that mh bulbs wear out much much faster than even overdriven t5s. Normally driven t5s last well over a year...some say up to 2, and still put out excellent par ratings, if properly cooled and with good reflectors. I've had mine running for 1 year as of now and I've noticed very little decrease in par. It would probably be unmeasurable if I cleaned the shields and such. I've never heard of any t5s being useless after 7months, that's a first.
chilwil84
Active Member
it all about what works for u and ur situation i took a shot at the ho t5 and i have had great growth on a monticap a bristlebrush acro and a crocea clam that has grown over a 1/2 inch in 6 months and it was less than 3" and never spot feed but this is what is working for me we cant forget that we dont know what conditions our corals have come from and adapted to i am sure this debate will go on for a while
oceana
Active Member
Originally Posted by Matt819
It's been proven that mh bulbs wear out much much faster than even overdriven t5s. Normally driven t5s last well over a year...some say up to 2, and still put out excellent par ratings, if properly cooled and with good reflectors. I've had mine running for 1 year as of now and I've noticed very little decrease in par. It would probably be unmeasurable if I cleaned the shields and such. I've never heard of any t5s being useless after 7months, that's a first.
i did not say useless i said around 50 % less then new. the 600 simply drives the crap out of the bulbs
It's been proven that mh bulbs wear out much much faster than even overdriven t5s. Normally driven t5s last well over a year...some say up to 2, and still put out excellent par ratings, if properly cooled and with good reflectors. I've had mine running for 1 year as of now and I've noticed very little decrease in par. It would probably be unmeasurable if I cleaned the shields and such. I've never heard of any t5s being useless after 7months, that's a first.
i did not say useless i said around 50 % less then new. the 600 simply drives the crap out of the bulbs
ogredawg
Member
Originally Posted by 1journeyman
I totally disagree. That's like saying in a car "horsepower is horsepower".
Companies use different benchmarks and different test scenarios...
I don't mean to hijack this thread but are there different types of horsepower? I was kind of puzzled when I read that because I always thought 100 horsepower = 100 horsepower. I'm not saying that two cars with the same horsepower would be just as fast, because that all depends on weight, torque, transmission, etc. I'm sure a 100hp car would be a turtle compare to a 100hp motorcycle (that's around 1000cc's by the way), but that's because of the weight right? Does that mean 10lbs of apples from one grocery store might not equal that if it comes from a different store. Again this is just regarding "horsepower."
I don't know everything about cars so I might be learning something new.
Although I don't have any input about lightings because I only use PC and I'm just researching for new lighting.
1JOURNEYMAN: Please reply because I really want to know if I'm missing something.
I totally disagree. That's like saying in a car "horsepower is horsepower".
Companies use different benchmarks and different test scenarios...
I don't mean to hijack this thread but are there different types of horsepower? I was kind of puzzled when I read that because I always thought 100 horsepower = 100 horsepower. I'm not saying that two cars with the same horsepower would be just as fast, because that all depends on weight, torque, transmission, etc. I'm sure a 100hp car would be a turtle compare to a 100hp motorcycle (that's around 1000cc's by the way), but that's because of the weight right? Does that mean 10lbs of apples from one grocery store might not equal that if it comes from a different store. Again this is just regarding "horsepower."
I don't know everything about cars so I might be learning something new.
Although I don't have any input about lightings because I only use PC and I'm just researching for new lighting.
1JOURNEYMAN: Please reply because I really want to know if I'm missing something.
fanker
Active Member
Originally Posted by Matt819
The truth is that as long as you keep the t5's fan cooled, you can run the lamps for about one year...although I wouldn't say any longer than that at all. Metal halide lamps in my experience need to be replaced about twice as often.
and if u use fans to blow the heat away they actually give more lunems, really.
The truth is that as long as you keep the t5's fan cooled, you can run the lamps for about one year...although I wouldn't say any longer than that at all. Metal halide lamps in my experience need to be replaced about twice as often.
and if u use fans to blow the heat away they actually give more lunems, really.
fanker
Active Member
Originally Posted by hot883
If I go MH, what is suggested ? 250's? 2 or 3?
If I go t5's how many bulbs at what wattage?
I'm just trying to get on the "I need good info" bandwagon. Ha! Any help would be great. I currently run 2 48" 260w PC's. Barry
if im right the 125g are 6 feet long, and t-5s arent very good when longer than 48", they make the 72" but they are dull in the middle so i would go with 2 tek 36" 6x39w, it will be more than enough
If I go MH, what is suggested ? 250's? 2 or 3?
If I go t5's how many bulbs at what wattage?
I'm just trying to get on the "I need good info" bandwagon. Ha! Any help would be great. I currently run 2 48" 260w PC's. Barry
if im right the 125g are 6 feet long, and t-5s arent very good when longer than 48", they make the 72" but they are dull in the middle so i would go with 2 tek 36" 6x39w, it will be more than enough
ibew
Active Member
fans is for heat loss in the fixture has nothing to do with lumens and also keeps the ballast cool does not effect water also and I think there is alot of people on this tread that donot have one clue on what you have read from ge clips about lamp par lumens or wattage acheived through a electronic ballast for a 120volt 208 application or for that matter even know how it actually works and probally are only 2 if that. that can look on a ballast wiring schematic and properlly wire it correctlly most here have bought pre assembled light fixtures or allready wired retros that all you have to do is mount and plug in maybe set a timer or 2 and you think you understand electricity :hilarious :hilarious :hilarious :hilarious :hilarious :hilarious
fanker
Active Member
Originally Posted by Ibew
fans is for heat loss in the fixture has nothing to do with lumens and also keeps the ballast cool does not effect water also and I think there is alot of people on this tread that donot have one clue on what you have read from ge clips about lamp par lumens or wattage acheived through a electronic ballast for a 120volt 208 application or for that matter even know how it actually works and probally are only 2 if that. that can look on a ballast wiring schematic and properlly wire it correctlly most here have bought pre assembled light fixtures or allready wired retros that all you have to do is mount and plug in maybe set a timer or 2 and you think you understand electricity :hilarious :hilarious :hilarious :hilarious :hilarious :hilarious
no seriously, the bulbs are to run at 95 degrees, but when no fan they run hotter which lowers the life spand and lowers the lunems, really it does, id show the link but i cant
fans is for heat loss in the fixture has nothing to do with lumens and also keeps the ballast cool does not effect water also and I think there is alot of people on this tread that donot have one clue on what you have read from ge clips about lamp par lumens or wattage acheived through a electronic ballast for a 120volt 208 application or for that matter even know how it actually works and probally are only 2 if that. that can look on a ballast wiring schematic and properlly wire it correctlly most here have bought pre assembled light fixtures or allready wired retros that all you have to do is mount and plug in maybe set a timer or 2 and you think you understand electricity :hilarious :hilarious :hilarious :hilarious :hilarious :hilarious
no seriously, the bulbs are to run at 95 degrees, but when no fan they run hotter which lowers the life spand and lowers the lunems, really it does, id show the link but i cant
fishieness
Active Member
Originally Posted by fanker
im so happy that some one finaly did it, proved that t-5s are almost just as good as mh
did you read ANY of the first page past the tittle post? :thinking:
im so happy that some one finaly did it, proved that t-5s are almost just as good as mh
did you read ANY of the first page past the tittle post? :thinking:
fishieness
Active Member
Originally Posted by fanker
no seriously, the bulbs are to run at 95 degrees, but when no fan they run hotter which lowers the life spand and lowers the lunems, really it does, id show the link but i cant
yeah, this time i am going to have to agree with fanker. The bulbs, like just about everyything, occurs most efficient at an optimum temperature. i am not sure exactly HOW much more efficient, just that it does.
no seriously, the bulbs are to run at 95 degrees, but when no fan they run hotter which lowers the life spand and lowers the lunems, really it does, id show the link but i cant
yeah, this time i am going to have to agree with fanker. The bulbs, like just about everyything, occurs most efficient at an optimum temperature. i am not sure exactly HOW much more efficient, just that it does.