rickross23
Active Member
Anemonea require a LOT!
Using a Pump as my a "overflow"?
- Thread starter rcdude1990
- Start date
rcdude1990
Active Member
requires a lot of what?
also guys what if i use the canister tubing as my overflow?
right now the canister filters intake (water from DT to canister), is basically a constant siphon which is located in the middle of the tank... what if i can use this concept and just have a return pump that matches the GPH?
i mean these DIY PVC overflows GPH are rated by the diameter of the PVC right?
so if i use lets say a 1/2" tubing as the intake line, then ill just get a pump that is rated for what ever the 1/2" diameter pvc would be rated...
also guys what if i use the canister tubing as my overflow?
right now the canister filters intake (water from DT to canister), is basically a constant siphon which is located in the middle of the tank... what if i can use this concept and just have a return pump that matches the GPH?
i mean these DIY PVC overflows GPH are rated by the diameter of the PVC right?
so if i use lets say a 1/2" tubing as the intake line, then ill just get a pump that is rated for what ever the 1/2" diameter pvc would be rated...
xcali1985
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcdude1990 http:///t/391318/using-a-pump-as-my-a-overflow/20#post_3470536
requires a lot of what?
also guys what if i use the canister tubing as my overflow?
right now the canister filters intake (water from DT to canister), is basically a constant siphon which is located in the middle of the tank... what if i can use this concept and just have a return pump that matches the GPH?
i mean these DIY PVC overflows GPH are rated by the diameter of the PVC right?
so if i use lets say a 1/2" tubing as the intake line, then ill just get a pump that is rated for what ever the 1/2" diameter pvc would be rated...
How do you restart the siphon in case of power outage? The return pump will start up and the overflow wont work. Resulting in the sump being pumped into the tank.
Glasscages make an overflow kit. All you have to do is drill a hole in the back of the tank, which is not that hard. Then silicone the overflow box inside. Wait 48 to 72 hours and leak test. This is probably your best route.
Originally Posted by rcdude1990 http:///t/391318/using-a-pump-as-my-a-overflow/20#post_3470536
requires a lot of what?
also guys what if i use the canister tubing as my overflow?
right now the canister filters intake (water from DT to canister), is basically a constant siphon which is located in the middle of the tank... what if i can use this concept and just have a return pump that matches the GPH?
i mean these DIY PVC overflows GPH are rated by the diameter of the PVC right?
so if i use lets say a 1/2" tubing as the intake line, then ill just get a pump that is rated for what ever the 1/2" diameter pvc would be rated...
How do you restart the siphon in case of power outage? The return pump will start up and the overflow wont work. Resulting in the sump being pumped into the tank.
Glasscages make an overflow kit. All you have to do is drill a hole in the back of the tank, which is not that hard. Then silicone the overflow box inside. Wait 48 to 72 hours and leak test. This is probably your best route.
bang guy
Moderator
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcdude1990 http:///t/391318/using-a-pump-as-my-a-overflow/20#post_3470536
requires a lot of what?
also guys what if i use the canister tubing as my overflow?
right now the canister filters intake (water from DT to canister), is basically a constant siphon which is located in the middle of the tank... what if i can use this concept and just have a return pump that matches the GPH?
i mean these DIY PVC overflows GPH are rated by the diameter of the PVC right?
so if i use lets say a 1/2" tubing as the intake line, then ill just get a pump that is rated for what ever the 1/2" diameter pvc would be rated...
This will end in a wet floor 100% of the time.
Originally Posted by rcdude1990 http:///t/391318/using-a-pump-as-my-a-overflow/20#post_3470536
requires a lot of what?
also guys what if i use the canister tubing as my overflow?
right now the canister filters intake (water from DT to canister), is basically a constant siphon which is located in the middle of the tank... what if i can use this concept and just have a return pump that matches the GPH?
i mean these DIY PVC overflows GPH are rated by the diameter of the PVC right?
so if i use lets say a 1/2" tubing as the intake line, then ill just get a pump that is rated for what ever the 1/2" diameter pvc would be rated...
This will end in a wet floor 100% of the time.
rcdude1990
Active Member
the tank is "tempered glass" and is suggested not to drill any part of
rcdude1990
Active Member
hmmm there is a little pocket n the corners of the tank, maybe this silicone box to the tank mightttt work... i would probably take a overflow box and silicone is to the corner and just use a regular u tube and possibly cut out a small piece of the metal thats on top of the tank.... hmmmm what do you guys think? the only problem i see with this is that i wont be able to take the overflow box out and clean it (which i would defnitly want to do
but how would i be able to hold the outside part of the overflow?silicone it to the outside?
but how would i be able to hold the outside part of the overflow?silicone it to the outside?
xcali1985
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcdude1990 http:///t/391318/using-a-pump-as-my-a-overflow/20#post_3470549
the tank is "tempered glass" and is suggested not to drill any part of
Highly doubt the back is tempered, however, it's possible. It's usually just the bottom.
Do the tempered glass test.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp7kuKMmDg8
Originally Posted by rcdude1990 http:///t/391318/using-a-pump-as-my-a-overflow/20#post_3470549
the tank is "tempered glass" and is suggested not to drill any part of
Highly doubt the back is tempered, however, it's possible. It's usually just the bottom.
Do the tempered glass test.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp7kuKMmDg8
rcdude1990
Active Member
anyone know the diameter of a standard clear u-tube? i think its an inch... i just looked and the little opening i have at the corner of the tank is an inch gap. so im trying to see if a u-tube can fit into this little corner.
and i guess the only way to have the overflow box stay in place is to silicone the overflow box to the tank.. i just remembered that the overflow box will sink so siliconing it would be the only way...
and i guess the only way to have the overflow box stay in place is to silicone the overflow box to the tank.. i just remembered that the overflow box will sink so siliconing it would be the only way...
beaslbob
Well-Known Member
quoting rcdude1990:
requires a lot of what?
also guys what if i use the canister tubing as my overflow?
right now the canister filters intake (water from DT to canister), is basically a constant siphon which is located in the middle of the tank... what if i can use this concept and just have a return pump that matches the GPH?
i mean these DIY PVC overflows GPH are rated by the diameter of the PVC right?
so if i use lets say a 1/2" tubing as the intake line, then ill just get a pump that is rated for what ever the 1/2" diameter pvc would be rated
end quoting
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bang Guy http:///t/391318/using-a-pump-as-my-a-overflow/20#post_3470547
This will end in a wet floor 100% of the time.
+1 with Guy
Please review and further think about the pvc overflow. The key is the "u" behind the tank which under power out will "trap" the water and stop the overflow below that point. That point is where the "u" comes back up.
whatever you were thinking of for the canister filter could also be the pvc input. You could even pretty it up with some kind of decoration(s) or partition. And by using the pump or a powerhead to form a siphon to suck out air in the HOB part, plus proper adjustments of water levels, you can almost totally eliminate floods. Not to mention the pvc only costs $20 or so and does not require any tank drilling.
requires a lot of what?
also guys what if i use the canister tubing as my overflow?
right now the canister filters intake (water from DT to canister), is basically a constant siphon which is located in the middle of the tank... what if i can use this concept and just have a return pump that matches the GPH?
i mean these DIY PVC overflows GPH are rated by the diameter of the PVC right?
so if i use lets say a 1/2" tubing as the intake line, then ill just get a pump that is rated for what ever the 1/2" diameter pvc would be rated
end quoting
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bang Guy http:///t/391318/using-a-pump-as-my-a-overflow/20#post_3470547
This will end in a wet floor 100% of the time.
+1 with Guy
Please review and further think about the pvc overflow. The key is the "u" behind the tank which under power out will "trap" the water and stop the overflow below that point. That point is where the "u" comes back up.
whatever you were thinking of for the canister filter could also be the pvc input. You could even pretty it up with some kind of decoration(s) or partition. And by using the pump or a powerhead to form a siphon to suck out air in the HOB part, plus proper adjustments of water levels, you can almost totally eliminate floods. Not to mention the pvc only costs $20 or so and does not require any tank drilling.
rcdude1990
Active Member
nah scratch the canister way because that sounds like a disaster
i dont mind the PVC but the U-tube part would be around 3.5 inches long and im afraid of a siphon break.
upon further inspection the enter top brace is actually siliconed down (including the front)
so im thinging about buying a overflow box HOB and just syliconing it to the tank and ill cut the metal piece out and just silicone the external box part to the back of the tank
i dont mind the PVC but the U-tube part would be around 3.5 inches long and im afraid of a siphon break.
upon further inspection the enter top brace is actually siliconed down (including the front)
so im thinging about buying a overflow box HOB and just syliconing it to the tank and ill cut the metal piece out and just silicone the external box part to the back of the tank
rcdude1990
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///t/391318/using-a-pump-as-my-a-overflow/20#post_3470809
Im thinking you can probably modify an eshopps overflow to work. Silicone one box on the inside and the back box to the outside of the tank and just run the u tube through the open corner of the tank.
yes my exact idea, shouldnt be to hard right?
what type of silicone would i need? also use the same silicone for the outside?
i dont mind this idea but will algea be growing behind the overflow box? nah right if i siliconed it really good right?
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///t/391318/using-a-pump-as-my-a-overflow/20#post_3470809
Im thinking you can probably modify an eshopps overflow to work. Silicone one box on the inside and the back box to the outside of the tank and just run the u tube through the open corner of the tank.
yes my exact idea, shouldnt be to hard right?
what type of silicone would i need? also use the same silicone for the outside?
i dont mind this idea but will algea be growing behind the overflow box? nah right if i siliconed it really good right?
xcali1985
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bang Guy http:///t/391318/using-a-pump-as-my-a-overflow/20#post_3470892
Be carefull because silicon doesn't stick well to plexiglass or acrylic. I suppose if you use the entire surface area it might be OK. Don't use a silicon that contains a fungicide.
+1. I would say look into other options, or use a canister filter. All these options are not safe. Don't know how tight your funds are, but maybe ordering another tank without the euro bracing may be an option.
Even removing the brace and taking it to a local glass shop and having a U made in it then resiliconing it may be feasible.
Originally Posted by Bang Guy http:///t/391318/using-a-pump-as-my-a-overflow/20#post_3470892
Be carefull because silicon doesn't stick well to plexiglass or acrylic. I suppose if you use the entire surface area it might be OK. Don't use a silicon that contains a fungicide.
+1. I would say look into other options, or use a canister filter. All these options are not safe. Don't know how tight your funds are, but maybe ordering another tank without the euro bracing may be an option.
Even removing the brace and taking it to a local glass shop and having a U made in it then resiliconing it may be feasible.
2quills
Well-Known Member
I'm going to have to beg to differ with ya guys here (respectfully).
First, not all silicone products are created equal. So it's hard to generalize them all as the same.
Speaking from my experiences in working with silicone in and outside of the hobby as well as questioning a few pro builders out there. I believe that silicone has the potential to bond plastic to glass or plastic to plastic quite well when it's done properly. Though not recommended for structural applications like building an acrylic tank with. Pretty much every horror story heard in the hobby can typically be attributed to builder/user error.
When I installed my first set of overflow boxes to my tank I ran a very small bead around the hole on the backside of my box to help seal it from allowing water to wick it's way to the bulkhead and leak through the threads...you don't even wanna know the nightmare I had to deal with trying to remove them from the glass when I decided to change to different boxes. Sump...same thing, plastic baffles weren't going anywhere without some serious persuasion.
I'd also like to address the relationship between silicone and mold/mildew resistance. All silicone products are the same in the fact that All Silicone (PERIOD) is inherently mold and mildew resistant already. Compare MSDS sheets and you can look at G.E. I and II, G.E. 108rvt (momentive) or any of the other silicone's marketed for Aquariums that say 100% silicone. There is no secret ingredient that is added to one or the other to make them any more special at being mold/mildew resistant. If you see a product being advertised as such...that's what it is (Advertising). Silicone is actually marketed to horticulturalists that is used in a spray form and applied to crops (like grapes) to protect them from powdery mildew (fungal disease).
When folks don't give the silicone a safe amount of time to cure (like 1 week minimum) they risk killing stuff off in the tank or whipping it out all together. 1 week should be enough time for non-neutral curing silicone's and 2 weeks for neutral cure silicone's like G.E. II which seems to have gotten some attention in the hobby in anecdotal situations. Even though they say 24 hours to cure...heavy (thick) beads of silicone can take a little longer. Play it safe and give a 1-2 week minimum.
RCDude: I think the idea is completely doable. I pulled out an eshopps overflow box that I had kicking around in the garage. The only real issue I see is once you set the internal box in the tank it might prove a little difficult if you ever have to clean inside of it or retrieve something out of there (but not impossible). Other then that just a slight modification to your canopy where the tube will go through....maybe cut that area out so that you can remove the canopy without having to take the U-tube out. Should make things easier for maintenance purposes. Though you need 1.-1/4" clearance minimum in the opening for the 1" U-Tube to fit.
Go with G.E. brand type 1 for windows and doors found at any of the big chain improvement stores or go with G.E. brand RVT-108 (industrial strength silicone adhesive) you can find it at Grainger.
First, not all silicone products are created equal. So it's hard to generalize them all as the same.
Speaking from my experiences in working with silicone in and outside of the hobby as well as questioning a few pro builders out there. I believe that silicone has the potential to bond plastic to glass or plastic to plastic quite well when it's done properly. Though not recommended for structural applications like building an acrylic tank with. Pretty much every horror story heard in the hobby can typically be attributed to builder/user error.
When I installed my first set of overflow boxes to my tank I ran a very small bead around the hole on the backside of my box to help seal it from allowing water to wick it's way to the bulkhead and leak through the threads...you don't even wanna know the nightmare I had to deal with trying to remove them from the glass when I decided to change to different boxes. Sump...same thing, plastic baffles weren't going anywhere without some serious persuasion.
I'd also like to address the relationship between silicone and mold/mildew resistance. All silicone products are the same in the fact that All Silicone (PERIOD) is inherently mold and mildew resistant already. Compare MSDS sheets and you can look at G.E. I and II, G.E. 108rvt (momentive) or any of the other silicone's marketed for Aquariums that say 100% silicone. There is no secret ingredient that is added to one or the other to make them any more special at being mold/mildew resistant. If you see a product being advertised as such...that's what it is (Advertising). Silicone is actually marketed to horticulturalists that is used in a spray form and applied to crops (like grapes) to protect them from powdery mildew (fungal disease).
When folks don't give the silicone a safe amount of time to cure (like 1 week minimum) they risk killing stuff off in the tank or whipping it out all together. 1 week should be enough time for non-neutral curing silicone's and 2 weeks for neutral cure silicone's like G.E. II which seems to have gotten some attention in the hobby in anecdotal situations. Even though they say 24 hours to cure...heavy (thick) beads of silicone can take a little longer. Play it safe and give a 1-2 week minimum.
RCDude: I think the idea is completely doable. I pulled out an eshopps overflow box that I had kicking around in the garage. The only real issue I see is once you set the internal box in the tank it might prove a little difficult if you ever have to clean inside of it or retrieve something out of there (but not impossible). Other then that just a slight modification to your canopy where the tube will go through....maybe cut that area out so that you can remove the canopy without having to take the U-tube out. Should make things easier for maintenance purposes. Though you need 1.-1/4" clearance minimum in the opening for the 1" U-Tube to fit.
Go with G.E. brand type 1 for windows and doors found at any of the big chain improvement stores or go with G.E. brand RVT-108 (industrial strength silicone adhesive) you can find it at Grainger.
rcdude1990
Active Member
i see i isee, i mean it has to be doable somehow!!! also maybe i can try to find a plastic like "C" clamp in which i clamp the boxes to the tank. so like the internal part it would get clamped from the bottom of the box to the glass brace, and the external box i can simple clamp it to the back metal piece.
im going to look into it but i think siliconing it would be my best bet
im going to look into it but i think siliconing it would be my best bet
rcdude1990
Active Member
guys ive jus come across the answer to my problem!!!
http://www.lifereef.com/siphon.html
if you scroll all the way down it states "Euro-Rim PreFilter Boxes"
wow this just saved me a huge headache!!
my only question really is this, if i order this box, which im assuming is acrylic, is it easy to make modifications to it? the only thing i look at it now is that the overflow box would kind be literaly in the middle of the tank (maybe a little more towards the back) you think there will be any problem?
now ill have to look at a wetdry being able to fit in my cabinet
does the size of the overflow box inside the tank determine the GPH? awhats the rule with GPH? 4x the gallons?
http://www.lifereef.com/siphon.html
if you scroll all the way down it states "Euro-Rim PreFilter Boxes"
wow this just saved me a huge headache!!
my only question really is this, if i order this box, which im assuming is acrylic, is it easy to make modifications to it? the only thing i look at it now is that the overflow box would kind be literaly in the middle of the tank (maybe a little more towards the back) you think there will be any problem?
now ill have to look at a wetdry being able to fit in my cabinet
does the size of the overflow box inside the tank determine the GPH? awhats the rule with GPH? 4x the gallons?