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Just to add on to Pegasus' line of thought, the best system I ever had happened to contain an 8" deep sand bed.

Timing is everything. Coral polyps are most active dawn & dusk. If you feed your fish everyday at dusk you'll start to notice the corals begin to open their feeding tentacles. That is the best time to feed the corals.

Caution - Some of the cheaper refractometers on the market today cannot be accurately calibrated with distilled water. Unfortunately, some of the devices coming from outside the US are arriving with an inaccurate scale. They can be used but they need to be calibrated to a known salinity other...

Yes! When I make fish food I purposely over blend it a bit just to ensure there is fine coral food and food for other carnivorous filter feeders.

Although I typically use Meq/L, the ppm scale actually makes more sense. Technically it should only be used to measure Carbonate or Borate individually but using ppm to measure the combined alkalinity puts it in perspective of Calcium when measuring the system demand.

When I had coral I fed them. When I next have corals I will feed them. I agree Bryce, that's why I have it a star.

The Alkalinity scale being used is ppm. 500ppm Alkalinity is about 10Meq/L or 24dKH. This is why I'm questioning the test kit.

He lost me when I read "The trubble with all these methords" Sure, spelling is irrelevant to the facts but it certainly detracts from the credibility. In my opinion, anything with a digestive tract should be fed. The only question is what and how much. Why would an animal, such as a...

You either have a bad batch of salt or a bad Alkalinity test kit. Can you get another test kit for the Alkalinity? Bad batches of salt are not unheard of so that's a possibility. It would explain the issues you are having. Meanwhile, also try to get a new bucket of salt to use and see if it...

If they have the freeze dried hydrate it in RO water before feeding.

Those polyps don't eat solid food. However, your suggestion could work. Perhaps the water is too clean and they are starving. They get all of their nutrition from the water column at the molecular level.

It's certainly not a placebo. It may or may not be beneficial depending on the quality of your tap water through the seasons. For most locations it is beneficial to strip everything out of the water and add back what is needed. Some locations have good water right out of the tap. It's easy...

JMHO but I believe Ostracods are, by far, the most nutritious food for Dragonets.

Caution - you need more than just a float valve on the bucket. If you only close the product line the RO will continue to dump water through the waste line and waste a LOT of water. You need to either shut it off at the water source when not in use or install a pressure valve that senses back...

If the LFS is using a hydrometer to test your water or their water go to a different LFS.

Farmed (freshwater Shrimp) or wild caught (saltwater Shrimp)?

Not impossible but it's unlikely for a Dragonet to contract Ick. It's probably sand grains blown over it as it feeds and imbedded in the thick (toxic to Ick) slime coat. It does appear to be starving though. Keep in mind that it can eat a lot and still starve if it's not getting good nutrition.

I've seen Queen and Fighting Conch gobble up Cyanobacter.

That was the first piebald I ever saw. I shot the small doe to his right instead. I saw him a few times after that but not the next year so I assume someone got him.

Like I mentioned, you can test the salinity that way if you have a high range TDS meter. There is no other reason to do so.