Search results

Originally Posted by maxalmon Yeah, there is no reason to run ANY product in a marine tank unless it's been tested for or is having a specific problem that requires specific treatment....IMO What about carbon? IYO

its about 6 inches away I do have a baffle system with thick blue sponge and plexi glass.

Okay I have an new Octopus brand nw-150 model(in sump model). I cant get rid of the micro bubbles that thing puts out. Any advice I have tried sponges over the riser tube. Does anyone if the gate valve mod kit they sell work?

nothing I was just wondering? So no phosphate problem dont run it correct?

Is it okay to run PhosGuard(phosphate remover) constantly in my fluval 405? How long should I run it?

sorry another question if I hypo the display tank do I have to remove the sand? Its about 2 inches thick?

well I have two 20gal spare tanks, can I take the water out of my display tanks to fill the qt and then treat with hypo. I have had the tank for 6 months and no the sand was not live it was dry but should be live now.

Thanks I will the hypo method, now the hard part trying to catch the fish with 100 lbs of live rock without stressing the other fish.

Originally Posted by nicetry You're going to severely limit yourself by not wanting to perform hyposalinity or not using a quarantine tank. In 10+ years of being in the marine hobby, there are honestly no bottled medications I can endorse with any certainty. You're free to try them but run the...

Okay so what is the best medication I can buy? I dont have a sick tank(learn my lesson). I have a 75 gallon with live rock starfish,snails and other fish, my temp is 80, all other tests right on. I dont want to do hypo some on please help!

How long will ick last on a fish if no treatment is given? Will it eventually fall off and die?

So everything on my list besides Iodine I need to test for correct?(oops forgot PH)

Originally Posted by PerfectDark IMO If your using RO water for your changes.. I dont see the need to test for Phosphates.. but I do have a question is there a reason why you are dosing calcium with just a FOWLR tank? Reef Crystals salt... does that not have any calcium at all in it? Im just...

Originally Posted by Mr. Limpid If its a fish only tank I wouldn't add cal. most salt mix have enough for fish. i would test your phos. once, but if you are using RO/DI you shouldn't have any. Also test your alk. if your ph is out of wak, they work opposite each other. There is a good thread...

Originally Posted by Tizzo Salifert's. Why do you wanna test for iodine? Are you adding it? Well to answer everything I have a FOWLR, I am dosing Calicum but not alk, due to my salt that I use(reef crystals) has high alk already in it,I use R/O water. I dont dose Iodine due I have no corals I...

Im already testing for ca and alk. ca-450 alk(my test kit reads ppm)-250 ph 8.2 nitrite 0 ammo 0 nittate 5 (working on getting lower) sg 1.023 (working on getting higher in process of buying a refract kit).

I have tried to search on the forum on what reef test kits people run and im getting conflicting answers. What kit is the best to run, is there any kits that have everything I need ALk, Mag, Iod, Ca. Also second question, what do I need to test for if I am going to be running a reef tank...

The royal grammas will prob fight. those fish are really mean, are your tanks cycled?

Originally Posted by mcbdz YES!! A protein skimmer would make a world of differense. you want believe the stuff it pulls out. And I don't understand why you already have those N03. My tank is 9mos and I have it fully stocked and my NO3 stays >5. You may have already done this but for the...

what about the addition of a protein skimmer, would that help the nitrates?