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It's best to slowly acclimate the new lighting to the tank... starting with a few hours a day and increasing it over a few weeks. This allows everything to adapt to the new lighting. Phosphates enter our systems in MANY ways. The food we feed, additives, water, etc. I'd do some good water...

To small and it will not be as effective as it could be. IMO you can not over skim so to large isn't an issue.

There could be a few reasons... but I'm not saying that kalk will not raise your ca/alk levels but with its high PH, kalk is not a good choice to use for trying to raise the ca/alk. .375, get a alkalinity kit that gives you the actual level in numbers... a "normal" reading doesn't tell you...

Originally Posted by vt rules It does look like coraline and is spreading pretty fast. What would you suggest for sand stirrers? More snails? Snails, a conch, more hermits...

Sense it's crusty I'm assuming coralline algae is going on the sand bed?? If this is the case then more sand stirrers are needed. I would never vacuum your sand... doing so will suck out all the things that makes live sand live.

Best thing to do is get the lighting on the tank to see what happens. Many people get by just fine with no chiller... others need them. After you put the lights on the tank it will not take long to find out where you sit.

Originally Posted by Nemo's Mom I would advise against using a whole lot of supplements. I would agree with the exception of calcium/alkalinity/magnesium. These three elements need to be balanced and maintained. IF water changes do the trick then that's great but often supplements are needed.

Kalk is good for maintaining calcium and alkalinity but not so good to raise it. First thing... what is your alkalinity level?? A high alkalinity level will cause a low calcium level. Also, what is your magnesium level? Products such as Kent Turbo Calcium and Kent Superbuffer are good for...

To keep the Sabae and clams I'd stick with the MHs. I ran a 110g with 2-400w MHs + 2-110w VHOs and did not need a chiller. The tank stayed around 82deg in the summer and around 80 in the winter. It all depends on your setup... regular fans will do a lot for cooling the water.

Originally Posted by tampausmc Aquarium Corals: Selection, Husbandry, and Natural History....Eric H. Borneman Ditto...

Not alwasys... but sometimes.

DON'T use chemicals yet... or at all if you don't have to. First, is it crusty or slimy? Big difference in what need to happen.

Ok, the 420nm is the "True Actinic 03". Go with that one IMO.

Make sure they are True Actinic 03 and NOT the 7100K. I'm not sure which is which by the peak spectrum??

If it's going to be a reef, I'd personally stop with the 5 you have. If it's going to be a FO then a few more small ones would be ok IMO.

If you do not get him eating prepared foods with in the next few days... take him back. He WILL slowly starve if not. If he will accept something like Formula 1 pellet food, frozen foods, whatever, then you should be fine as long as you feed him enough and make sure he eats enough. They are...

Originally Posted by Saltwater8 Are calcium, alk, PH, mag. etc as important for a FOWLR system? Not as important I guess unless you start having PH problems... regular water changes should be enough to keep things in line.

Read this first https://www.saltwaterfish.com/vb/showthread.php?t=48111

Ditto... run the refuge lights opposite of your tank's lights. Doing this will help stabilize the tank's PH.

Excess phosphates can have a seriously negative effect on coralline and calcifying corals. What are you using as your water source??