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Very nice!!

Originally Posted by Billy2k1 Ok,now that i know that VHO with icecap ballast should run longer, my next question is how much is too much?.I'm planning on four 75 watts VHO 24" long lamps for a 30g 18"deep with some soft corals.The reason i am asking is because i have been reading about some...

I replace my PCs once a year... not sure why yours went bad but you should be able to get more than 6-mo out of them. VHOs ran on Ice Cap Ballasts will easily last a year.

Originally Posted by Jerthunter If Mg is needed for proper Ca absorption then I suppose I should worry about it more but so far from what I have read it appears that it serves to prevent calcium and carbonate from precipitating. Magnesium does NOT prevent calcium and alkalinity from...

You will also need to test your alkalinity. Calcium & alkalinity go hand and hand. What is your phosphate levels??

I agree smaller food is better. I feed mine frozen formula one sometimes...

Originally Posted by coachKLM not to much light but too much heat..... your water will boil ... That's a little strong... heat may be an issue but it can be overcame.

That's not to much light... but remember lighting is only part of keeping delicate animals.

It's caused by excess nutrients in the water... do some good water changes with distilled or RO/DI water. Increasing the tank's flow may also help. How many fish? How often do you feed?

No bother... opinions very but if you change out your carbon once a month you'll be good. Make sure to get a good quality carbon... poor quality carbons will leach phosphates into the water.

Originally Posted by sambroom If I had made it 2 years in good shape, should I still deal with water changes? 3 people have already said yes... and I'll be the forth!! I'm not going to repeat everything that is stated above but it's all good advise.

Depends on the Tang...

I would agree kind of on the phosphates... the test kits we get test for inorganic phosphates and not organic phosphates but IMO it's still important to test every now and again. A build up of phosphates can cause havoc. Calcium & alkalinity IMO are two of the most important tests... IF you...

https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/215685/is-450mg-1-calcium-ok I'm not sure what unit of measure you're referring to but 450ppm calcium is good if you have a alkalinity level of 12.6dkh or so... but IMO that's running on the high side. Personally I'd shoot for somewhere around 420ppm to 440ppm...

I'm not sure what unit of measure you're referring to but 450ppm calcium is good if you have a alkalinity level of 12.6dkh or so... but IMO that's running on the high side. Personally I'd shoot for somewhere around 420ppm to 440ppm calcium with 8.4dkh to 11.2dkh alkalinity. Pick a spot and...

Well... if you kill the bad things all the good things will also die... then you are left with expensive base rock. IMHO I'd do 80% base rock and then 10% premium live rock. Do carefully go over the live rock (even QT it for a while) so no unwanted critters get in. The live rock will turn...

Typically the 20,000k bulbs are much bluer than the 10,000k bulb. 10,000k bulbs are typically a white/yellowish color. What ballasts are you running and what bulbs do you currently run?

I'd relocate it in the tank if possible or place it in a bucket of removed tank water. If you remove it, pick it up and wait for it to retract as much as it will and then remove it upside down to place in the bucket... but place it right side up in the bucket. btw, that's a beaut...

Be careful acclimating your corals to the MHs... you are increasing the lighting substantially.

What kind of lighting do you have?? Nothing really likes "direct" flow. Random, multi-directional flow is best... and I agree that they seem to like medium flow.