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Bang Guy... Do you flinch when you stick your hand in the 900 gallon lagoon? Do you think about what life forms have evolved in there since the last time you stuck your hand in?

Crystal Sea. That S-15 report is a poor excuse for indirect advertising...but none the less...it is advertisement...as was mentioned...pretty much one sided to their own product... That Ron Schmuck (or whatever) guy did an independent study on the various salts centerd around marine life...

Even if the U tube was blocked...but still submerged in water at both ends...it wouldnt lose its siphon...it would just slow down.

Where did the article originate?

That is why a strainer is recommended...or in my case a bio-ball...But then you already knew this.

Freshwater dips are usage specific...because a fish appears to be ill is a far cry from conducting a FW dip... A FW dip is also a far cry from what you described as doing with your fish in relation to allowing them to be exposed to air for so long... A FW dip is strictly (as my knowledge goes)...

Cruel method? That is beyond cruel... Brain damage begins in fish at about 4 minutes in the air... You will find marine fish are far more sensitive then their FW counterparts...mostly due to the changes constantly occuring in a FW environment, temp, ph, etc. Always remember one thing with...

I put one in my sump...I also keep a 1.5 inch bio-ball in the supply line for the pump... My sump is lit 24/7 by the same light for the refuge...he keeps the sump pretty clean..there also pods in there as well.

Dont start this hobby...find a magazine, cut out a picture of a nice looking reef tank...and tape it to the fron of your FW tank...it will save you tons of cash, headache, frustration...oh and did I mention cash and headaches? If you are insistent...then do what BangGuy says...except a couple of...

Your wife dont want you spending too much...hahahahaha.... The overflow is what brings the water from the tank to the sump...it maintains, through design, a continuous siphon without regards to water level in the tank. This enables the overflow to stop, then start during power outages, etc...

The sand you are referring to will have a shelf life...do not know what it is, but it will. It would probably be benificial for you to look it up on the internet prior to purchasing it so as you know exactly what it is you are getting. Just curious...why do you not go with the FL live sand? It...

Dont you have a screen or someting on the powerhead?

Vman181.. I remember when they were called SP's...when did that change?

Most people start with crushed coral as I did because I didnt know any better...then after they go through a bunch of continuous crap...like I did...trying to maintain it and the water quality...they switch to a DSB...like I did... If for no other purpose...the looks as the white sand I like...

Azeritis...did you fall off the marine tank boat yesterday? :) A hair algea outbreak like his, 1) isn't really that major... 2) can happen in a matter of 10-12 hours, and 3) would get far worse in a very very short time.

Kent has a mixed bed resin which will aid in the lowering of nitrates, phosphates and silicates as well... As for your rinsing question...everything non natural you use in your system for filtration purposes has to be cleaned at one point or another...or on a schedule...when items are left...

Wouldn't aeriation cause the calcium in the mix to precipitate?

Just the shrimp the fish will eat.. hehe My redspotted hawk just now ate 3 3/4 to 1 inch krill...what a pig!

I dont think it can be aged too long...

Oh yeah..and what she said.^^^^^