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If the Kent Rx-P works...extend the usage of it for about two week or so.

Run the skimmer....it can only help to remove some of the debris.

Sounds like your crab was hungry. Next time move your crab (if you can) to another spot of the tank...give him his own piece of food...he should stay still while he eats it...mine do anyways.

Water movement accomplishes several things... There are no calm spots in the ocean...water is always moving. Water moves nutrients throughout. Water moves O2 throughout. In the home environment...water prevents dead spots in the tank...keeps the entire tank circulated. Water being forced over...

Your cycling period will be finished when the amonia goes down...not a moment before...time is irrelevent in this respect...each tank cycling time is as different as the people who maintain them... To aid in the curing of the LR...you could raise the tank temp to about 80-81, use a soft nylon...

Remember one very important thing with keeping marine life in the home aqaurium...too fast is certain disaster. Everything in the marine environment takes time to establish. Two weeks into the scene...you may consider adding some live rock to aid in the cycling. As for your filtration...without...

What are you looking for for price?

If the two tanks are for the storage of potable water...they should be fine for the storage of ro/di water. If you plan on storing salt mix...use the fiberglass.

Maybe bubble algea?

RO/DI...Reverse Osmosis/Deionization...a filtering process for water... Reverse Osmosis forces water through a thin film or membrane...allowing mainly pure water through...although purer then without...still some ions (positive/negative) will get through. Deionization...a set resins which absorb...

If the 10 hasnt been cycled...or needed right away...it is best (I think) to drain it and give it a good rinsing with some running water and a brush. The reason I say this is the heater contains insulation of some fashion, and in this insulation could be potential contaminants. I forgot to...

Green Algea... I believe he was refering to green Macro Algea, Calurpa, etc....not the Micro...hair, etc...

Get a very sharp utility knife... Cut a perfect square around the tank stand... Go to home depot.... Look for an attractive ceramic tile.... Get some grout (sanded), enough 1/4 exterior grade plywood to cover entire floor (where the stinking carpet was previously)... Rip the old carpet up (from...

Moving water...heater to about 80-82 degrees....put the rock in higher salinity about 1.040 for a few minutes...kills nothing..and sends the creepy crawleys out...mix your higher salinity in a 5 gallon bucket..get a nylon bristle brush...set a few pieces in there for about 3-4 minutes...scrub...

Get snails...lots of salt...some 32 gallon trash cans...keep the stock water mixed, circulated and proper temp...put the snails in...change 25% of the water about every two days...with the water changes you are trying to keep ahead of the dead hair algea decomposing and providing supplemental...

I think there comes a limit as to when the name changes from Live Rock to Live Boulders....

Go to western South Dakota...no ocean...but you have your tanks for that...oh and no people, litter, crime, rush hour, no people, no people, no people....there are places in the Buffalo Gap National Grasslands where you wont see people, litter, telephone poles, tracks...nothing...just you and...

RO removes impurities...the DI portion removes ions...positive, negative or both (depending on the resins). Email those people and ask if they can add the DI on for you. Most of those places are very willing to help you.

Sumps in the basement...only way to go.

The east coast sucks as bad as the west coast...they both stink, full of buttheads, and equal amount of illegals, idiots, crime, and so on...