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Using the tap water for the second half would simply defeat the purpose of the filter. You would still instroduce contaminates which your water may contain and you didn't want in the first place. You may consider bottled RO'd water for the other half for now.

Take your live rock out and inverts...put them into a QT system. You may, if you have 2, put the fish in one seperate and either copper or hypo them. As for your main tank...putting copper in will ruin the tank. Unless you take everything out (substrate and all) and scrub the tank...copper will...

The Ich is probably harbored within your main tank. The two trooper fish you mentioned have probably built an immunity to the ich, so they are able to fight it off themselves. New fish that you add, after the QT period, are probably ich free until you introduce them to the infected tank. Once...

Pressure pump shouldn't be required. Also, if you do order one...go with the 75gpd 10 buck upgrade. You may even ask about 100gpd upgrade. I didn't even think of it when I got mine. I got the 75, but wish I had gotten the 100 if it was possible.

Read your manual for the UV...it will give you recommended flow rates to accomplish certain tasks... Research on treatment of ick itself...there are as many remedies as there are opinions on this board. There is no "best way" to treat and cure ick. There are many here whom feel the hypo is the...

No you do not need a sump to have a refugium. They are two seperate things and perform two seperate functions.

If you are going to be using it for drinking water...or want to...look at their Dual Domestic/Reef setup...several of us on here have this setup and I myself enjoy its dual setup.

Tygerfifteen...the 30 bucks you pay...is that locally or is it online...if it is online what do you pay for shipping?

Depends on what you want filtered out. Keep one with bio-balls...and use the other one for you chemical/mechanical filtration. If you do this with the second one...the sponge provided will also perform well with the bio filtration. If the one setup isn't enough...then do the other one with balls...

Bonkubo... One thing you should consider while attending that class...as well as any interaction with your local LFS...always remember they are in business to make money...and many of them will try and push things off on you. Recommendation...any advice...remember it and research the topic for...

LifeReef on one...Marineland SOS on the other...extremely happy with both.

Marine Enterprises.

Plastic tubing and the screen?

Before I set my sumps up...on my 90, I had an AquaClear 500 and Filstar XP3. The 500 I took all the stuff out, except the basket, filled it with bio-balls and put the foam block back in. The Filstar, I put the Filstar bio-stars in one level. With the two...Amonia was never a problem. The sump...

Go very, very slow...with all aspects of this hobby. Many people rush, and before long their lack of patience usually creates problems within the tank which causes stress on them, and makes the hobby a burden versus an enjoyment. Research everything...including the equipment your purchase...

"Red slime" is not an algea...it is actually one of the most basic bacteria...Cyanobacter. It is present everywhere. It doesn't need to be imported into a tank to appear...just as the bacteria working the Nitrogen cycle.

What are the dimensions of the 30 gallon?

You need lots of small things the little dudes will be able to wrap their tails around...you will need brine shrimp nepulai to feed them...or something else which is really really small. Get some brine shrimp/artemia cists...a 2 liter plastic soda bottle (rinsed really well), an are pump with...

Don't know anything about the SeaLife...I have had my SeaClone for about 18 months now.

As long as a skimmer produces skimate...that is all that is needed. That is not specific to brand name or type... I use a Seaclone 100 and am satisfied with its performance. I have it in a sump and it extracts as it is intended to do.