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Seahorses are hard to keep due mostly to their feeding requirement, which usually creates difficult water conditions. Nitrate is a problem I constantly fight with with my seahorse tank. You have to feed quantities which allow for the slow, deliberate feeding habits of the species, and this...

Too bad you dont live closer to CT

Tangs, by nature of their thin skin, are more prone to contract Ich then most species. Some Tangs, i.e..blue hippo, are more prone within the Tang group.

Windsor, CT. But I travel to Carlstadt, NJ every week night.

vasilithegreek, if you already have deco, rocks (LR or otherwise), substrate, etc in the tank, your tank volume is no longer 50 gallons. Chances are, it wasn't exactly 50 gallons to begin with, whether more or less, it was probably rounded. It is easier to pre-mix the water in a seperate...

For your live rock you should put it in a bucket with air and flow. Do water changes often, scrubbing the rock to remove dead tissue matter prior to water change. Check the amonia often. Once all the decaying matter is removed the amonia will have spiked and began to decline to a normal level...

I used cycle and stresszyme when I first set my 90 up. Went through the normal cycle relatively quick. Then, after sterilizing the tank due to Amyloodinium infection, killed everything but a few strong dwarf blue hermits. Anyways, after resetting it up, didn't use any bio starter and suffered...

Where are you located at? City/State?

Anarobic.

Anyone familiar with the Nitra-Gone reducter? If so please post opinions and such. Thank you.

Put him back in the main. If you fear of the meds following him, put him in a little container of your tank water for a few minutes to give him a chance to exhale and cleanse himself out a little bit. Then put him back in.

How long did you have your Mandarin? They are sometimes tough to keep. As for the treatment, a preferred treatment is a treatment which works for you. There seems to be many advocates of the hypo method, and it probably works well for them. But, treatment methods vary as do the varieties of...

Is also a symptom of moderately advanced C.irritans.

Well, either way you go, you will have to remove the fish from the tank. The hypo stuff as well as the copper will usually kill all living, non fish life in the tank (inverts, LR, etc). I had ich one time in my 90, which generally, err, "irritated" me to the extent that I sterilized the tank...

You may also want to do a search for their hypo-salinity treatment which many advocate here. See if that method will do anything for you. A final note, research is the key to prevention, as prevention is the key to healthy marine life.

You need to locate the cause of the Ich as well and correct it. Any fluctuations in water temps, SG or other stress causing conditions, i.e..amonia, nitrites, nitrates, etc. Without locating and removing the stress causing condition, basically you will be "shoveling against the tide.."

What do you have in your tank as far as life goes? Inverts? Fish? What? If you have just the fish, though other people in here will debate their personal preferences to you. My personal preference is if you have a QT, take the infested fish out, match the water temp with de-chlorinated water...

If your tank is leaning to one side, this stresses the seams of the tank on that side. You may want to level it otherwise you may end up with a seam leak. Seam leaks are enjoyable...they look similar to a drinking fountain purging up from the plastic, glass retainer....well, that's what my 45...

Copper treatment should coincide with the life cycle of C.irritans. This is typically between 2-3 weeks. This is with the ionic form of copper, and ideally be maintained between .11 and .20 ppm. If the fish displays signs of Ich, then treatment should generally be extended another 7-10 days...

Does it sort of look like cauliflower or cheese?