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you can go to manhatten reefs and check out sanjays lighting guide. you can compare various bulb performance on multiple ballast which is probably going to be your best bet.

I dont think its too much although I'd do the halides plus two super actinic VHO over the four t5s. color is better and wattage/heat would be the same.

I have an aquaclear from around 1996. besides removing calcium deposits it works flawlessly (even though its been retired since 07').

Originally Posted by skate020 i was just at the LFS trying to get a halide unit and he told me i could get one but there going to be ditched in 2012. bulbs, units, the lot. because there incredibly inefficient and harmful to the eco system. lol bullsh*t on ALL accounts and SE halides arent...

pH is higher than typical but okay if its stable. besides the dKH phosphate level is the first thing that jumped out at me. needs to be closer to .05 than .5 (optimally .01-.03). most likely the culprit are parameters too different from what they likely came from opposed to any one thing...

good luck with that. a year and eight months and various aquascapes and I have yet to discover where my sixline sleeps. I believe one or two times I've seen the cocoun floating around briefly after he woke up.

10" or less under the surface is 10" or less under the surface (where my sps start in my 16" deep tank with 150w halides except caps which still grow fast and do well on the very bottom). the only real problem is aquascaping for a 29" tall tank is going to be alot more expensive than stacking...

mine eats anything frozen and pellets. If yours doesn't like dry food he'll just have to eat when your feeding frozen or gets hungry enough to down the pellets.

mine picked on each other but mostly during feeding and they all pretty much defended themselves as neccessary so none ever got killed or banished from the pack lol. they werent even afraid of the male or other fish much less each other. I tell you one mistake I made. I started with a single...

Originally Posted by T316 I like "bottomless", but not in a tank my friend . and seems like it would be a beast to clean. first off its "bare bottom" not "bottomless". I joked at this term in the last thread but come on now. I agree all tanks should have a bottom. it may "seem" that way but...

Originally Posted by florida joe Wow I cannot believe I am witnessing the rewriting of all the marine aquarium books I have ever read. No more live rock no more uncured rock no more damsels and dare I say it, no more cocktail shrimp. Just fill your tank with water. Get a piece of rock sterilize...

it really doesn't matter, you should do which looks best to you. most people think sand looks better and there are some creatures and fish that require sand. I had sand and removed it. I removed it because with the flow I wanted in such a small and shallow tank the sand was sort of a nuisance...

everything I've read on the reeflux 20k vs the 12k is they look almost identicle, perhaps just slightly bluer and have better PAR (basically more like improved 12k then 20ks). so I would just go with three 20ks. better yet get one reeflux 12k and tell us what you think vs the 20k.

q-tip sponges like low light, low flow (though they'll adapt to anything but high) and high nutrients. scrape them off and eliminate or reduce any one of the three variables. flow probably wont work (they'll just find another suitable area to accumulate. sumps and overflow boxes are typical...

I asked myself this. How can this work on every tank? they say 2-3 blocks per 10gallons and no possibility of overdosing. Now one 75g tank with a high coral load may have 10x the calcium demand as one with a low load. even with two like size tanks that far apart in calcium demand its highly...

I wouldn't add any before getting that test kit. Problem with mg is you need to add a TON to raise it significantly so adding by guestimation (or even known dosage ratio) wont cut it. following most product directions wont put a dent in the mg level. if you have to raise mg a 100ppm or more be...

yeah thats normal for midas to find a hole to hide in normally with just the head sticking out until they get comfortable and they can change from yellow to a brownish color instantaniously when stressed or nervous. african midas are a little tanner/browner than maldives but it should still be...

I single 150w isn't going to cut it for a 36" long tank. If you raise it enough for full coverage it will be too weak to do what you want to do. A 250w is doable but you'll need a good reflector and raised higher than normal. I'd really prefer two lamps for coverage purposes. radium is the only...

15yrs always open top or back and ZERO jumps......yet, except the lyretail male that jumped as soon as I put him in but ever again, Go figure (just my luck after boasting something will probably jump tomorrow). like I said let em jump cause it just againt happening for me.

I think you want to keep the bottom but sounds like you want it bare I think it probably makes no difference at all. I do think sand harbors a bunch of junk (stir any from any established tank) but just because its there doesn't mean its hurting anything. I see no reason why bacteria...