Search results

Look no further than the "Live Rock" link on the left side of your web browser. SWF's price is quite competitive...comes out to about $4-$5 a pound (with free shipping).

Ocean View makes a 5' 100-gallon glass tank that you ought to be able to get with a pine stand (ugly but paintable) for under $400. I bought mine for $300 from the LFS. At that price it doesn't make sense to go with anything smaller unless you want acrylic or have a specific shape in mind...

Nitrate is the end product of the nitrogen cycle. Organic matter decays and produces ammonia. Ammonia is broken down by the biofilter into nitrites, which are processed by different bacteria into nitrates. Nitrates have to be removed either with water changes, algae, or a DSB. If your...

I've lost count of the # of times I've flooded the laundry room by leaving the RO unit going, having a faulty needle valve, or having the wastewater line slip out of the drain. It's a jury-rigged setup and boy howdy but you can tell. We've had up to an inch of water in there.

I'm beginning to question how much light RBTAs really need. I've read on another board that they often thrive at 130-200 ft...if this is the case, it would follow that spectrum is more important than intensity. I'm considering trying to keep one in my 100g under 4x65W PC, but I'm not confident...

Is this what you have? You can easily resize an image by opening it in Paint, then selecting Image -> Stretch/Skew. Then you can just put in percentages for length and width.

The nanocube has a built-in powerhead that takes water from the bottom of the "sump" area in back, across the tank from the overflow, and returns it to the top of the tank. Although it's not that great a PH. It tends to run loud and isn't that powerful. A very popular modification is to...

Originally posted by phipps I love to watch mine "pop" up out of the sand when they sense food!! Yeah, feeding time in my tanks always reminds me of a zombie flick, with the little beasties climbing out of the sand to feed. There's something really spooky about the way they do it, imho.

I'd suggest not putting the rock directly on the bare tank bottom, though. I'd get a piece of lighting eggcrate at your local hardware store, cut it to fit, and put the rock on that. Then add the sand around so it helps "embed" the rock. This will help you get a stable rock structure and...

In a 30, I wouldn't even say you need a big piece. Half an average-sized shrimp is probably sufficient. It's surprising how little organic material is required to kick everything off.

I would definitely recommend augmenting your cleanup crew with some more algae grazers. Start with a few, but eventually you'll probably need a lot. With nitrates that high (remembering that nitrates are the chief ingredients in most commercial fertilizers) you'll probably have a big algae...

I've killed a couple of the little beasts in my fuge with pickling lime...the trick seems to be to mix it into a thick paste, just fluid enough to suck some up with a turkey baster, then inject it right into the aiptasia's mouth.

The other thing to consider about anemones is that even in the care of experienced aquarists, most specimens survive less than a year. Considering that this is an animal that can live hundreds of years on the wild, it's a shame. If you do upgrade your lighting later on and want to get an...

I'd try to resist the temptation to add chemicals of any kind unless absolutely necessary. At a bare minimum, you should test for anything you're putting in, so if you buffer, you need to test for alk and Ca. *Some* fluctuation in pH is normal. Over the course of the day, with lights on...

I'm running a LifeReef overflow on my 100g and I'm very happy with it. It's a little bit noisy but I've been able to employ a couple of tweaks to make it almost silent. It moves 700g an hour with practically zero maintenance. I can't come up with a scenario in which it would be likely to be...

Not if you wait until the ammonia and nitrites are zero in the curing tank. Should be fine after that, IMHO.

You shouldn't see any antennae on the turbos. The nassarius will have one long antenna-like organ that looks like a miniature elephant's trunk. You'll often see it sticking up out of the sand.

I've had great success battling cyano with a combination of decreasing lighting, cutting back on feeding, and adding critters to keep the sandbed cleaner. If you don't have any photosynthetic inverts you could try leaving the lights off and not feeding the tank for about 3 days...then slowly...

I sure wouldn't, at least not without removing at least one of the triggers. That tank is definitely overstocked with two triggers and 3 damsels in it.

Brooklynella is a parasitic protozoan that is common in wild-caught clownfish but also infects other marine fishes. It's lethal if not treated. The drawing in The New Marine Aquarist looks like irregular white blotches on the side of the fish. I would be able to give better detail, except I...