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i was assuming since the OP talked about the mushrooms getting big and not having room that they wanted to completely relocate the mushroom but yeah.. clipping them will work as long as you dont mind the mushroom regrowing in the area it was originally located.

take a flathead screwdriver and chisel just under the mushroom removing the little area of rock that the mushroom is attached to this little chip of rock will also allow you to use super glue gel and relocate the mushroom easier

yeah.. if your light was low.. then you did an upgrade.. then thats your culprit dosing Ca... dont forget to dose and test dkh along with it i like b-ionic... a balanced incremental ca-dkh dosing system.. it would be best if you dosed in a sump.. but you can dose directly in your tank as long as...

either a swing in ca-dkh, temp, or lighting.... noticed any of this?

if the resins are kept fresh.. then they work pretty good unfortunately they get exhausted really fast. the expense in swapping out these filters will buy you an ro/di unit pretty fast i like airwaterice.com typhoon III's :)

Originally posted by 007 What are you using to raise your Alk in the mixed water? baked-baking soda (carbonate) mixed in ro/di water since the pH of newly mixed oceanic is around 8.0ish. If it were higher than 8.2ish... i would use just baking soda (bi-carbonate) i am not sure, but for some...

check the dates on these threads... javajoe probably isnt gonna respond :)

may as well test house Ca while you are at it

tank alk or new water alk? also interested in your tank Ca ppm after you added the high 650ppmCa new water to it

8-12" is optimal for light spread and intensity light spread goes down the closer the bulb gets to the tank intenisty goes up the closer the bulb gets to the tank around 8" for halides seems to be the best bet

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how about a single stage temp controller... tank hits 84*F.. temp controller shuts the lights down... only problem.. if your tank hits 84*F easily then your lights arent gonna run much fans directly at bulbs do change their spectrum... fans in the canopy moving air in and out.. no worries...

i think they meant to say if the alk was low to increase it and that will bring Ca down dkh has been around 6-7ish on my last bucket... raise that up to 11 or 12 and the Ca should fall 30ppm for every 2.0dkh raised (or somewhere around those numbers)... that should get ya around 470Ca and 12...

did you rinse the media?

halide moguls... 9-12months halide double ended (supposed to go 12 months or more, havent gotten there yet) PC... 9 months VHO... 6-9 months (actinics seem to go faster than whites) all based on 10 hr a day usage.

they can be ordered from savko.com if you cant find black pvc fittings anywhere local

I would go with a three 250 watt DE 14000k MH with two 160w VHO's. thats what i run (phoenix 14k for best PAR) the canopy being open screws with the camera so the tank doesnt look as bright.. but it is very bright

black looks cool until it gets coraline on it.. .then its gray you could always take them off and clean the coraline off though

he had a tank crash... redbugs, faltworms, ich, etc.. all rolled up into one big nightmare. no wait... you know that

tablespoon (15ml) per gal is 3x the "beginner" rate 1 teaspoon per gal is where ya start (5ml) saturation is 2 teas per gal without vinegar