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Like TheGrog said it's mostly bubble size & dwell time. In DK's Giant Clam book there is a very good description on what needs to happen in a skimmer. SeaClones appear to also be very inconsistant skimmer to skimmer. I've not had the bad luck most people have had. Mine will need to be adjusted...

It probably is close to 600 gph. As you mentioned, there are factors which diminish the flow from a pump. Their rating is probably measured righ out of the pump without any piping attached. There also maybe a little fudge factor built into the rating of the overflow box.

Nanos, or picos, are tough to do. I have a 10 gallon in my office but the environment I work in allows time for maintainence etc. A lot of automation also helps. Here's a pic of my office nano. It's very doable, just not easy.

You definately get what you pay for with a skimmer. I've run SeaClones, and still do. I like them but they take a lot of attention. I would put them at the low end of the skimmer spectrum but I would not compare them to a Skilter. I also have never run a SeaClone 100 on a system larger than 40...

This is one of those subjects where you just have to agree to disagree. There are some of the very best systems that have UV running on them & just as many without.

Tell us something about your maintainence routine. Normal water changes, what is your water source, what's your lighting, what's your lighting schedule, how old are your tanks? Just about anything you can think of.

It probably depends on what you local water is like. I use the same RO/DI water for drinking that I use in the tanks.

Oh, I did not get them together but the clown was in the anenome within seconds of it being placed in the tank. I've had the clown for about 4 months, the anenome for about 3 weeks.

The anenome is up against the glass. What you see on the right is it's reflection. I turned the powerheads off & took the pic looking straight down. The column is buried in the sand underneath in this shot.

I finally broke down & got the Clarkii an anenome. It's in my ten with 150w HQI.

You can use portland cement in your tank. There are plenty of formulas out there. I use portland cement, aragonite sand and crushed coral to make frag plugs and cultured live rock. Like Thomas said pre-mix is out because you don't know what gravel or sand that has been used. It's also true that...

They don't need light. The biggest apastia I have seen were in a Fluval canister filter growing on the sponge filter.

Derasas are sand bed clams, which makes having one with your current lighting even more problematic.

I have been struggling with bryopsis for almost a year now. It first started as a small patch the size of a dime on one rock. If I had it all to do over again I would take the offending rock out of the tank immediately, frag whatever is on it & then kill the rock. I'm convinced that this stuff...

I've used several brands, doesn't seem to matter as long as it's gel. A couple of months ago I forgot to plug my auto top off back in after a water change. It was my office nano & a Friday. When I came in on Monday one monti cap was exposed along with some GSP's. It was probably exposed for 24...

There's a chemical warfare type thing that goes on between softies & SPS. Particularly if leathers are involved. It's not a waste issue.

It shouldn't take long. You might try using super glue gel for attachment. It works very well with montis.

Agreed, all hardware and water quality issues need to be addressed prior to adding any SPS.

I think monti's are a very good way to get started with SPS. Both caps & digis come in various colors and their growth rates give you immediate feedback on how you're doing.

"I want what he is smoking" Not me, I'll stick to the stuff that doesn't cause brain damage.