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If you plan on SPS, I would opt for more flow. Right now that's about a 33X turnover which isn't bad for SPS, but more would be better. On my 55g, I have right around 2900gph for a 53X turnover. It just depends on what you plan on keeping.

Originally Posted by Stanlalee that only applies to 250w bulbs (SE and DE) on HQI ballast. there are several 400w bulbs that outperform XM 10k 400w, some by alot. Picky, picky aren't we...lol. That's news to me. Apparently you have access to info I am not aware of. When I run tests on...

XM 10K's are one of the best bulbs you can get, and they aren't that expensive in comparison to most. I would never run them alone, but with actinic's they do not look yellow at all. The only bulb that I have seen throw out more par, is the Iwaski 6500K, and it only gives off more par with...

Very nice pics, love the pink milli in the first pic-absolutely gorgeous. What are the names of the two Tenuis(s) in the 3rd pic, stunning as well. The Cali Tort is next on my wish list.

Justin, unfortuately my camera doesn't come close to replicating what it looks like in person(DUTCH06-you out there?...lol). I do have a few "somewhat" close ups, but with 3mp close ups don't look anything like in person. Anyway, these are about as close I can get and still have the pic look...

I wouldn't worry about trace elements being depleted by carbon. I've read several comments from RHF on the other board, in which he stated that the amount of trace elements taken out by carbon is negligible. Google: Ozone and the Reef Aquarium, Part 2: Despite their widespread use with...

I would never run O3 with out running carbon 24/7. And I would advise against injecting O3 in a skimmer if that is your plan. If you plan on running O3, use a reactor specifically for it. Injecting O3 in a skimmer drastically decreases the effectiveness of it. It also will break down your...

fuge, sump, ATO

Here are a few pics with my cheapo 3mp camera. In my system I run a 20g fuge with chaeto, 10g sump with a modified Octopus NW-200, carbon 24/7, ~125lbs LR, 53X turnover, 500w MH(XM 10K), 220w VHO super actinics, ATO, super saturated Kalk(vinegar) in my top off's 24/7, lot's of homemaid 2-part...

If you really wanted, I guess you could use this set up without a sump, but this is a rather large piece of equipment @ 5g and I personally would rather not view it above my tank. You would also have to build a rather tall stand for it, if it is set above your DT. If you really wanted you...

Do you have a sump? If so, all you need is an adjustable float valve, and small tank.

Originally Posted by scrapman The idea of the 20 gal High below the 90 is appealing... What is there is a power failure..... the 90 gal drains into the 20?.... how to limit/stop the siphon?? You can't stop it, it will drain down at least 1/2 an inch in your DT to the bottom of the teeth on...

Originally Posted by scrapman Now, to avoid the large drainage that you mention, it seems to me that the top of the 20 gal should be below but very close to the 90.... (let say that there is a 2 inch difference between the two water levels)... There will still be a siphon from the 90 to the 20...

They can't be even or they won't drain into one or the other(at least the top of the tanks). One must be higher than the other so it can "overflow" into the other with the help of gravity. It sounds to me as if you want water to go from your 90 and drain to the 20, then get pumped back. In...

The spectrum does affect the longevity of the bulb. A 6500K Iwaski can last up to two years with only 15% spectrum loss. While higher K bulbs tend to lose there spectrum much faster than lower K bulbs. Most 20K bulbs won't last longer than 6 months before their spectrum shifts drastically.

Are actinics absolutely necessary, no. Do actinics provide usable light for corals, you bet. Corals will color up much more with the use of actinics. Actinic bulbs aren't too far off the spectrum most 20K MH bulbs provide. 20K's peak around 460 nanometers(which is the blue spectrum) while...

Originally Posted by jhebi Hi Hurt, just a question about the fuge. Do you have anything where your chaeto is, like a mini ph to tumble and move your chaeto, or is just the movement of the water from your display tank. Thanks My chaetomorpha does not tumble at all. As long as you harvest...

My PO4's and NO3's are most always O, which obviously means it is functioning as designed, so I guess that means it is succesful. This design is tried and true, but I also feel a high turnover with Chaeto is very important as well. I have 40X turnover through my fuge. To figure out how much...

Definitely not BS. Fan's will cool your water as long as you aim them at the surface to create evaportion. My fan's lowered my tank temp 4 degrees. My clip on fan is connected to the same power strip as my MH's, as this is the only time I really have a need to run it. I have computer fan's...

HQI's run hotter from the test results I've seen. Google: cnidarian reef mh. On his test the PFO HQI ballast drove the temp reading up to 97.2 without any fans, an IceCap ballast drove the same Ushio bulb to only 85.2 under the same conditions. As far as par is concerned, every test I've run...