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I was 'petting' my puffer once and he bit me(lesson learned!). My jerk reaction happened so fast he got pulled right out of the tank. He must've liked it out there cause he eventually died via carpet surfing a few months later :/

It sounds like exactly the way the stimulus money is intended to be spent. Construction work that puts people without jobs to work.

Sitcks with Chaeto for plants, unlike other forms of macro algae it won't go s e x ual on you and crash the tank.

Careful with those urchins. They get basketball size eventually which can make tank maintenance uh interesting.

I'm pretty sure the T5 need to be HO. T5 by itself are too low wattage

You can paint the bottom of the tank black. The outside of the bottom obviously. Or tape one of those aquarium backgrounds to the bottom.

Oh I missed that part, and you posted in the FO forum :p Corals themselves will use up some Nitrate and Phos. I still think DSB is a good idea.

20 trates is nothing to fish. The Nitrate and Phos does suck for keeping algae/cyano under control, but it isnt a big deal for the fish. Are you using ro/di? You really shouldnt have a phos issue. If you feel up to it you could make a remote DSB.

Only supplement calcium if you're testing for it and know its low. High Calcium can lead to problems.

ANother thing to encourage Coraline growth is to supplement Calcium if Calcium levels are low.

Temp and Alkalinity? Lighting wouldn't affect a FOWLR at all. You need to slow down. Problems: 1. You still have ich. The only way to get rid of ich is with copper or hyposalinity treatment. 2. You added too much too fast which would stress your environment. 3. Dont ever cycle a tank...

The only thing that can be done for lockjaw as far as I know is to increase their vitamin intake and food variety and force feed them through it. A local vet might have the neccessary tools for force feeding. Since its a Pufferyou could also be seeing an issue with dentistry since their teeth...

Its on the heavy side, but as long as your filtration can cover the bioload I dont see any problem with it.

On a 10 gallon its probly safest to do a large cup a day, like 1/3-1/2 gallon.

I have a 125 with a 75 sump. I use a Mag 9.5 for my return. I supplement flow with 2 Koralia 4's in the DT. I could use another small powerhead too, but the 9.5 is fine for sump to dt. Read up on your stocklist, you definitely do not want to mix certain predators together(like Lions and...

Some various items you don't have but will need eventually: 2 Brute garbage cans for storing/mixing water Heater+Pump for mixing water TDS meter Various plumbing for sump(expect this to run around ~75$) GFCI wall outlet or GFCI Power Strips(2) Selcon and/or Zoecon Vitamin supplements(for fish...

Personally I want my sick fish out of dt asap because I have a predator tank and theyll get picked on otherwise. Another good reason I would think is to try to prevent the disease from spreading to other fish. Most recently I started my qt with live rock and a filter pad then after a few days...

Originally Posted by florida joe And lets assume your live rock is a platform for nitrification and you add it to your QT/HT and your fish in fact shows signs of parasitic infestation. What happens to your live rock when you treat it? Where did I suggest treating a tank that has live rock...

Originally Posted by crypt keeper Prime why wouldnt keep you qt active at times? Unnecessary energy use and maintenance.

That works out great Joe when you need to move a sick fish to QT and don't have time to wait for a cycle. /sarcasm off Maybe its worked for me because the pieces of rock I move to qt are in front of powerheads, thats good to know but get off your high horse about 'proper aquarium practices'...