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Originally Posted by crypt keeper Learn something everyday. So incredibly true. I just found out low alkalinity can cause violent swings in pH which might've attributed to half my fish dying. Too often we learn these things the hard way. :/

There shouldnt be any cycle when using existing rock since most of the bacteria exists on surfaces. Sure theres no bacteria on the tank and filters, but there should be plenty on the porous rock. The QT might not be able to handle the same bioload as the tank until bacteria has formed...

Lighting: VHO or MH suitable for a 55 gallon tank. I wont go into particulars as there are a ton of options here. Heaters: get Jager ones Refrac: You can get a decent one on a certain auction site for 30$ Test Kit: Sera, Elos, or Salifert. If you're feeling spendy you can get a digital pH...

A QT started with live rock from your establish tank will not need to cycle. Do you have live rock in your dt? YOu can also add filter media from the dt to the qt to kickstart the bacteria. Also, if you replaced all the water you should check your pH and Alkalinity levels as a large water...

Trig pic 2

Update: Emperor 400 on qt Divided QT with eggcrate because of increase humu aggression in small tank Puff and Trig eating and looking ok, but not good QT at 1.019 slowly lowering(still awaiting refrac to arrive) Buffering both qt and dt to combat low alkalinity, suspect Oceanic salt mix is the...

Generally speaking, yes.

You can use one of the reef safe ich medications like the one made by kent marine. This won't get rid of ich, only reduce the number of parasites so hopefully your fish can fight it off on their own. You'll never be totally free of ich until you hypo/copper all your fish and leave the dt empty...

I've had API ammonia tests that gave a color not even on their chart consistently and Nitrate tests that were well off from the true reading(50+). Since then I use Sera and my API crap is just a backup in case I have any reason to doubt the Sera numbers.

If its crushed coral just vaccum it every other week as part of your water change. Don't count on inverts doing much in a predator tank. The ones that live will only be able to come out at night anyway.

Is there anything that doesn't go with an Eel? I'm pretty sure you can house SFE's with pretty much any fish. Maybe a slow moving small bottom dwelling fish would be lunch, but most anything will be fine. Personally speaking, my SFE doesnt even mess with inverts.

There was another poster here who was asking about a blue ring. I havent seen them post since shortly after they got it so I can only assume it killed them.

If you're going to use anything from your tank to jump start the cycle use some live rock or a filter pad or something. You still might want to do a hypo, but if you observe the tang for a month in qt and there are no signs of ich you should be ok.

I lost my very first sw fish that way, a porcupine puffer. I was devestated. It totally sucks :(

My tusk ate all inverts except for starfish and urchins and would probly eat small fish. He was also a bit of a bully.

Yes, lunare wrasse grow to be about 10" and will outgrow a 55. Generally they are active swimmers so I'm surprised he never is swimming around. They are aggressive predatory fish that should be kept with similary aggressive fish and as he gets bigger he can be more territorial and start...

My QT's at 80 right now. It was at 77 when I first put the fish in and I moved it up over a couple days. I guess I'll do the same for the display. I just ordered a refrac so I'll start a slow hypo until it arrives. Also I found someone with an Emperor 400 on my local reef forum so getting...

I wouldn't do a deep sand bed with your setup. Its a sand bed of 6" or deeper and has special care instructions. If not done properly it can crash your system. IMO you dont have the room or experience to do it.

Lunare wrasse can get very violent, I'm not sure any smaller fish will be safe with one and theyll definitely ougrow a 55. Other then that 2 Ocellaris should be fine.

If its ich its already too late. Its in your tank and you'll never get rid of it. Most fish, if healthy, are supposed to be able to fight off ich. Taking additional precautions like using a UV sterilizer would help prevent ich from becoming a deadly problem. You need a bigger qt then a 10...