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What do you mean when you say they were "gone"? As in, not in the tank - or dead? (I've had jumpers before, particularly from small tanks, and one went down a vent where it dried up and was not found for a month!) also - the problem with a 10 gallon QT is that the water parameters can change...

I'll run the barrage again tonight to double check, last chemical tests were sunday, but the temp is 78*, SG - 1.023, ph was 8.0 this morning. e

water parameters are all excellent, I usually feed frozen shrimp & spirulina on a clip once a day, and have an auto-feeder feeding flake at intervals. I bought this Formula Two frozen mix b/c it had garlic/vitamins, with "gel binder". problem is, I've chopped it up to make it edible for little...

I reluctantly got a Pallette Blue tang (my daughter really liked it) and of course, as soon as I transferred it from QT to DT, it's sick and I'm not tearing down the tank to get at it. I bought a neon gobie as a companion to this one, but it doesn;t seem interested in pecking at whatever is on...

PS my CA concentration is at ~440 PH with actinic lights on is still low, but rising at 7.8

ok my DKH is ~ 6.0 - a bit low. But it should also be taken into consideratino that I've recently switched from adding calcium manually once a week, to a Kalkwasser drip - about two weeks ago. I continued adding a carbonate/bicarbonate additive manually once/week, AND have just begun adding...

and Bang Guy, why is buffering the top-off water a "really REALLY bad idea?" what harm could it do?

hmm, well with no rotting detritus that I can see, and plenty of circulation, air-infusion at the protein skimmer, and exposure at the filter return, that only leaves overstocking, which I thought I was admittedly near, but still short of. I had switched to DI water because my tap water had hi...

I had switched to DI water 2 months ago to get rid of red slime. Checked SG and PH of mixed water at changes (8.5 PH) but oddly enough the tank PH gradually fell off from 8.2 to 7.7 over time. Then I had a green hair algae problem! It wasn;t until the LFS guy told me the DI process lowers PH...

I just got a Rose BTA. I built a little rubble area up for it in the midst of a sand plane. But when I put it in the tank, the current floated it into the corner of the "drop-off" wall I've created for other corals and it latched onto the first rock it contacted. ( I tried to guid it toward the...

I can;t say what it will or won't eat. The difference that marks whether you have the one identified as safe or not is (besides nose length - which is hard to tell without a comparison) is that the "safe" 'longirostris' butterfly has a silver mark on the bridge of its nose. You are in a good...

I just put in MH lights. I had to rearrange all the rocks so I could put the corals on the sand, then gradually raise them up to comfortable levels. Ever since my blue tang has been going nuts on ONE side of the tank- running up and down the glass frantically as long as the MH are on, once they...

I have theMicheal book as well but I've asked several LFS guys and they say that no matter what any book says ANY long nose will eat coral polyps - one even showed me how they feed their dying corals to their LNbutterfly.

wouldn't it be easier to air condition the room rather than cool the tank through evaporation? (if, i assume, that's why you'd want to accelerate evaporation). When the LFS guy here in NC tried to sell me a $500 cooler, I just bought a $99 air conditioner for the room - keeps the tank AND me cool :)

a surface fan?? never heard of it, obviously don;t have one. sounds like an evaporation accelerator :)

all great ideas - Bang guy - won;t the halides melt the nylon screen? the stand I'm looking at buying puts the fixture 6" above the tank. Flatzboy - the VHO's are actinic (I guess I assumed) how does that effect the process you describe - won;t the corals be starved for daylight, then SLAMMED...

what's the best way to do this? most of the shrooms have attached themselves to the top of large rocks that make it nearly impossible to place them at the bottom of the tank. On the other hand I would like to use the leg-stands of the new fixture and not have to set up the chain-hanging system...

I have a 75 gallon, 20" H tank with LPS, leathers, xenias, mushrooms in it - right now doing well with a 260W PC. I want to get a MH light. Looking at 2*150W MH + 2 110Wvho unit = 6.9W/gallon! will that fry my existing corals? will the whole tank have to be rearranged? how could I acclimate...

dburr, thanks, I thought so but oddly enough some of the "slim-line" designs have built-in ballists. the heat over the tank issue makes me wonder about the trade offs though. What do you have? PS I'm from CT as well (Madison/Guilford), now in NC.

Some questions, what's better, remote or built-in ballasts? I'm looking for a space conscious canopy, 48" long, dual MH for my 75 G reef. anyone have any comments on the following: Reefsun Azoo aquahalide HQI halide & T8's low profile reefstar cool touch lighting any suggestions? I have limited...