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i too have a 90g glass and 160g acrylic...i prefer the arylic for the following resons: 1.Doesnt scratch as easy as everyone says 2.easy to set up due to weight 3. clearer any given day then my glass (no green tint) 4.does not collect algea like mentioned previously anyway just my 2 cents

I too have a naso in a 90g reef with soft and sps coral...I have loads of inverts and a coral beauty, maroon clown and a flame hawk...everyone get a long great

I use iodine, calcium buffer, and strontium and all my soft anf sps corals are great,

i havent found anyone that would it red algea but I just started using red slime remover it works great. You also need to check your phosphate. Once you get rid of those your red slime can be controlled

anyone keep shrimps with flame hawks? from what I read shrimp seem to be some nice dinner for flame hawks.

how long has the tank been running...also do you add addidtives? if so could you have over dosed them? Also have you sprayed your house with any type of pest control? it sounds like some sort of toxic problem.

i too have a 90 with 4x95wat vhos and 2x96 pc..i have soft and sps in the tankt

Jim, what is your phospahte testing at? I have a 160 thats has been running since 02/02 and alll water parameters are fine except phospahet is .50 and I too diatom. I initialy used tap water but since slowly converted to RO but the phosphate stayed in the sand and LR...so I have placed...

What type of lighting do you have? How much water movement is in the tank? How are your water parameters? hzve you tried moving them around your tank? What kind of additives do you add? Just some ideas...

Im starting to add tech 1 iodine, stontium and coral vital. Should I keep my skimmer while adding these items or stop skimming for a period of time....

Salty- I used a pizm on a 75g and a 29 gallon for several months and it work great...you have to adjust the valve every few months... To add to some of the previous comments...many people are at work during the day and it takes some times 24 hours to get responces, if not longer. I know from...

My coral beauty was doing the same and not eating but after about 4 days he is now eating fine...I feed mostly frozen food..ie green algea, red algea with sponges, and dry seawead select and every once in a while frozen brine shrimp..

normal beach sand is not ideal due to local polutants. I live in orlando and tried starting a tank using sand from th east coast and and Continualy had high phosphate and undesirable aglea....The live sand you buy is normally from deep waters in the ocean 50 plus feet deep and away from the coast.

<a href="http://www.redseafish.com" target="_blank">http://www.redseafish.com</a>

i too have a 90 gallon tank. Im running 4x95vho and 2x96pc...so running a total 572 watts...I figure I have spent around $350-400 in lighting...

i have 3 lettuce nudis and I have never seen them eat hair algea...they do eat the green algea though

I wanted to know if its possibel to over dose a tank on iodine. Also has anyone added kent marine expert strontium to there tanks( in powder form) I wanted to get the liquid strontium and molybdenum but was sent the powder stuff instead... also anyone everused marc weisse vital coral? Also...

I got some pulsing xenia one week ago and they seemed fine for a few days...Within the last 24-48 hours they stopped pulsing...is this normal?

i have a few varities of caulerpa and about 10lbs of rock some snail, crabs, DSB.

I have had two volitans and my newest seems to be a little bit trickier. The first day i did feed him feeders...then I waited 4 days and started to offer silver sides on a feeding stick...it didnt work. So I through some krill in front of a power head and he shot up after them. I waited then...