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Ech, sorry, about the powerstrip. It is a regular 8 outlet power strip with on/off button. Four of the outlets are always on; the other 4 are on an on/off timer. 2 are "blue" and 2 are "yellow". When the blue outlets are on the yellow ones are off and vice versa. The timer is set in 15 minute...

1st pic is an AquaClear powerhead rated at 270 gallons/hour. I no longer have the venturi valve thing for air bubbles but I doubt you want those. I still have the box and instructions for it. 2nd pic is of the two anemones that used to be one anemone. They are both a good size, my tomato clown...

So far all the corals, live rock, skimmer, and lighting fixture (minus the canopy) are spoken for. The rest is still up for grabs and, like I said, local pickup has priority so if there is someone close by who will pick up all or/most of the stuff I will take some heat, I suppose.

I really need to move out of my current housing sometime soon so can no longer maintain my tank and need money for miscellaneous expenses. I do enjoy the hobby but due to these other reasons I must vacate it for a while. Here is what I have and asking prices with them: -55g glass tank, under...

First and foremost this question would be better answered in the "Anemone and Clownfish" forum. Second, there are a few basic questions that could help in identifying a potential problem: How long has the tank been set up? What kind of anemone is it? What lighting are you using? Is it moving...

For a tank of your size then metal halides would be the best and safest bet should you want to go reef. They are expensive, however, so getting them and then not going reef would seem a waste, in my opinion.

Bove, you can just cut the shroom at the base in one clean cut. The base left behind can also regenerate into a new shroom in addition to the new frag/s you will have from the main part of it.

I would never trust water that I didn't know had a large ammonia spike. You need to have this spike in order to be assured that you have the proper bacteria colonies established. Even if you don't see one you can tell if you had one by testing nitrites which should also spike; if nothing there...

It depends on what you want. If you plan on staying fish only your lighting will do fine. The look won't be as good in my opinion but you can always upgrade to some PCs. If you eventually want to go reef I would look into a VHO or MH system; I would think about that now because both setups are...

I had the Jebo 55x4 (220w) PC fixture and had no problems with it whatsoever. It was cheap and more than got the job done. I would still use it if I had not upgraded to MH and sold the PC fixture. I think a few people just got some lemons with Jebo; I have heard bad things about Odyssea as well...

If you have questions specifically about anemones you should try posting in the "Clownfish and Anemones" forum; there is actually a stickied post that will let you know which anemones are likely to host which clownfish. To directly answer one of your questions: A bubble tip anemone is the only...

Keep in mind that anemones are delicate creatures and are very fragile in immature tanks; I didn't read you stating how old your system is so can't make a decent guess as to how successful you might be with one in your tank. Also remember that the "watts per gallon" rule is a very loose...

1.25 is a little too high for any saltwater fish. You might want to try going to about 1.025 SG. Edit: Many fish stores purposefully keep a lower specific gravity because they only keep the livestock short-term. Supposedly the lower SG will get rid of most parasites that might be on the...

I suppose that I may not be completely correct but I believe that MH bulbs only give off "good" light for a 24 inch span. While that one bulb will be very bright anything more than 12 inches away from the bulb won't get much of its output. If you put just one MH bulb in the center of a 48" tank...

I can't figure it out from what you posted, but does that deal include 2 different MH bulbs and ballasts? I assume that you have a standard 55g (48 inches long); if that is the case then just 1 MH fixture will not be enough to light your tank. That is unless you like the half-lit look. If it...

One thing you have to understand is that online sites have a larger consumer base than local stores do; with fewer employees they can sell to a very large customer base. This way the smaller profits they make from each sell add up immensely. Local fish stores sell substantially less so need to...

I have a 4x55watt PC lighting system that I no longer need. It was made by Jebo and is stated to be able to fit most standard 55gallon tanks (is roughly 48inches long). It is a little over 4 months old and is in perfect working order. I no longer need it because I have just upgraded my lighting...

That is nearly how my water is now. My nitrates are a little higher than what I said (around 12ppm I think) and I have more bubbles than I like. Bubbles will be taken care of as soon as my AquaC Remora preskimmer comes off backorder at my LFS; at least I hope the bubbles are gone. The nitrates...

The way I have always thought of "pristine" water conditions encompasses much more than lighting, equipment, etc. Pristine, to me, means: -no fluctuations in ammonia or nitrite -little fluctuation in nitrate (no more than 5ppm, staying less than 10ppm) -no phosphates -enough calcium (I think...

Remember to not add anything that you do not test for. More directly to the topic, I don't think there is much of anything you really need to add yet. If you don't have many corals yet and do regular water changes then most of your values should be ok. When you start to get more corals and see...