110 gal Mixed Reef Build. 180 gal System

lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
Thanks Shawn I really need to know what the golden rule is on how much clearance I will need between the bottom of the weir and the top of the 90? I's there such a rule? I really feel the 1" will be too small I'm wondering if 1-1/4" would work. I want the best functional option on how the bean overflow "should" work
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Honestly I asked that question myself a few times and got no solid answers....If you go through the thread you will see a pic or 2 where the bottom of the elbow looks as if it's on the bottom of the overflow......I wasn't sure and just guessed because I didn't like or think it would work that close, so I just made up a couple and gave it a shot and like I had mentioned through playing with it, I found what I was looking for my making small adjustments with PVC couplings till I found "my" sweet spot......I don't think there is truly a correct answer. Being that the taller you make them the less the water drops which equates to quiet.....The shorter they are the more noise per say.....Being that your limited in height a bit, I would try making them an 1" and see if you can slowly raise them till it wouldn't function.....Nothing really has to be wasted material wise other than some cheap PVC pipe.......Just my .02
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Bob looking at the pic why not try lowering the standpipe till the middle of the elbow is about 2" below the cutout in the tank.....Now you have to remember even though the cutout is at "said" height it will run slightly higher......Not much, but your water level won't be exactly at the bottom of the cutout you made in the tank.......
Another suggestion I might add is going back to using 1" plumbing inside the overflow box.....1 1/2" fittings are huge.....being a space/height issue using the 1" will buy you some room.....You will still be able to handle the flow with the 1"
 
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eric b 125

Guest
Lubeck, I just recently got back into the hobby and I'm putting a beananimal on my 125. I recognize your images from the big site. What are the dimensions of your overflow box?
 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
What about this setup. This should work right? There is plenty of room between the top of the elbow and the bottom of the weir let alone the top of the tank. Don't you think? This is still using 1.5" piping

 
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eric b 125

Guest
Uh-oh. I just had the glass cut for mine and the external box is 5"H X 4"W. I hope it's not too shallow for the plumbing. On the big site I read that 5" would be deep enough.
 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
Shawn I wish i could fire the sump isn't even done. No baffles yet.
Eric are your holes going on the bottom or the back.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Theoretically you dont need baffles in the sump to run it for testing....you could run a sump without baffles on a complete setup.
 
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eric b 125

Guest
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lubeck http:///t/394626/new-110-gal-mixed-reef-build-this-is-going-to-be-good/260#post_3521451
Eric are your holes going on the bottom or the back.
The holes are going into the bottom of the external overflow box. I'm assuming that the water level in the overflow has to be over the top of the elbow (like in the first picture of post 265 of this thread) in order for the siphon to start? Using 1 1/2" PVC for inside the box is really pushing it for the dimensions I had the glass cut. I don't see a problem using 1" inside the box, do you? I'm sorry to hijack your thread, but I've had a lot of difficulty finding help anywhere else (even on my reef-clubs website... the same reef club that both beananimal and calfo are members of...ha)
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Correct you'd like the water level over the elbow, but I'm fairly certain his will work as cut....The problem with using 1 1/2" is the size of the actual fittings themselves....With my overflow box being so deep it wasn't an issue.....You are correct....The original design used and is calculated off using 1" plumbing and bulkheads....I'm certain even if Bob's standpipes were swapped to 1" he would have no issue with flow and would also make fitting the pipes in the overflow a bit easier.......
 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
Got a little plumbing done tonight. Also put some lighting in my stand. I hope to move the tank inside this weekend





I've got a problem with this one going to have to use spa flex to get around it



 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Looks good Bob.....The only other real suggestion I'd have at this point without seeing it run would be the down turned elbows that you slotted would be to cut the slotted end shorter.....Basically trim some of it off....See how it runs first though......
 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
Random question on the Reeflo dart pump I got. It came with an extra impeller so does that mean it has the "snapper " impeller installed and the dart is the extra one?
 
edat

edat

Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lubeck http:///t/394626/new-110-gal-mixed-reef-build-this-is-going-to-be-good/260#post_3521679
Random question on the Reeflo dart pump I got. It came with an extra impeller so does that mean it has the "snapper " impeller installed and the dart is the extra one?
I think I got the same pump as you. I assumed that the pump came with the Dart impeller installed.
My extra impeller has a small "S" written on it so I thought it was the snapper.

But the description on the website where I purchased the pump says:








*



Adjustable flow external aquarium pumps grow with your needs







*



Premium aquarium pumps for quiet, efficient & reliable operation







*



Use included extra impeller kit to convert into higher flow pumps




So now I'm not sure either.....
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lubeck http:///t/394626/new-110-gal-mixed-reef-build-this-is-going-to-be-good/260#post_3521648
I can't seem to figure the closed loop out or the manifold

Bob in this pic right here the bulkhead farthest to the right would be the 1 that I'd put the ball valve on.....It's the most unobstructed position or the far left as well......The middle bulkhead I would honestly rework.....Meaning I'd either rework it by using 22.5 fittings to work it around the CL bulkhead and then tuck it back underneath for a straight shot down or you could use a fitting to just move it left or right a bit and drop it down to the sump.....You seemed pretty open that the drain lines from the overflow will just drop into the sump instead of being hard plumbed into the sump.....Possibly my assumption is incorrect..........
Ok.....Not this pic shows somewhat what I was talking about.....I'm assuming the back port of the "cross" fitting will glue directly into the bulkhead directly behind the fitting......
Now the ports coming off the left and right of the "cross" fitting this problem can easily be fixed with cutting your hard pvc back a bit and using spa flex to make the off bends where you need them to be......I'm also assuming that the output of the pump is going to be connected to the bottom half of the tru union ball valve......
I see an open bulkhead to the left right beside the drain line from the overflow and not entirely sure where that would tie into the plumbing.......I'm also assuming that the bulkhead to the right with the "down turned elbow is the bulkhead that will feed the pump water from the tank......
Again IMHO this is a perfect place to use SpaFlex to make the connections.....without actually being there and dry fitting the parts, but from birds eye view I'd say your going to need to do a little fancy work with elbows and SpaFlex to get it turned back to the pump, but should not be an issue, but will take a little patience and mockup work.....
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member

Just caught a glimpse, but only need 1 gate valve on the overflow system......the other 2 won't be used or needed......Hopefully not already glued into place and can be returned......I do like the cutouts in the stand bringing the lines down to the sump......
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member

Bob not the pic I was really looking for but I'll have to get a pic tomorrow, but as you can see this is how I feed my CL pumps........you can see in the background the bulkheads in the back panel where the water will be returned to.......
c
Here's a short video of the CL test with the lock line.....
 
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