110 gal Mixed Reef Build. 180 gal System

acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Sorry....Somehow I upload all the dumb videos I shot of the tank.....but it might help you somewhere along the line.....
Yes the impeller marked with the "S" is the Snapper impeller....If you guys actually pull the cover off the pump and compare the size you'll see the 1 installed in the pump is the bigger of the 2.
 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member

Just caught a glimpse, but only need 1 gate valve on the overflow system......the other 2 won't be used or needed......Hopefully not already glued into place and can be returned......I do like the cutouts in the stand bringing the lines down to the sump......
Shawn I need to be able to tear down the tank in a year or so That is why I put the valves. I guess I could get away with just unions?
 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member

Based on the pic the 2" intake has the down turned 90. I don't want to do this and it is just resting on the bulk head for the closed loop. Now the return line that is resting on the second union ball valve would connect to a T that you can barely see. It is all dry fitted and not cut perfect because I was just checking if the angles would work.
You mentioned something about a union valve connecting for the closed loop but currently I don't have any in play yet. All the ones you see are for the overflow drains.

My drains into the sump are hard lined in I believe ? Here is a pic. Nothing is glued yet

 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
Thanks. I'm really trying to build to the 5-3 rule and the more I look at it I'm not sure if I'm accomplishing that? What do you think? I think I have it with the height but nothing is really crossing over the "center" line when looking at length.
I haven't figured out how I will connect them. I did buy PVC but not sure which method I will go with. One criteria is they need to be able to come apart for a break down so either PVC or the pin method. The one piece on the left is 18" tall and weighs more than 25lbs. Since it has a clean flush bottom I'm not sure i need to do anything???
 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
I just realized I screwed up with my CL intake. The bulkhead I bought was only1.5". I'm not sure exactly what the dimensions are of the hole but it looks like a lil under 2-3/4". I'm trying to see what the install hole size is for a 2" bulkhead. If the hole isn't big enough is it safe to drill it again?
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
It's safe to enlarge it.....Drilling is a different story from how I see it.....Using a larger hole saw it would wonder around the panel until it actually would start to cut which IMHO would be unwanted.....I think the best option for as far as enlarging the already existing hole would be to get a sanding drum.....Basically a round drum which would attach to your drill which would then accept sandpaper and allow you to sand or grind the hole larger.....I use the sanding drum everytime I drill a bulkhead hole for the simple fact to clean it up and smooth out the inside of the holes.....I'm just anal, but it works for me......

This is the sanding drum itself.....It would attach into the chuck of any drill.

This is actually the sand paper....You can get it in different grits......I would just mark the new dimensions for the new bulkhead on the back of the tank with a marker and slowly sand an enlarge the diameter of the hole till you sand away your marks.....Of course dry fitting when you get close to your marks.......
 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
I got a lot done with plumbing tonight. Some is dry fitted and some glued like the manifold. The return is just about done all I need to do is glue. I put unions on all my CL returns so I can take it apart for any reason. The one bad thing is the tank will come out 9 additional inches in width with the CL. With the exception of the CL I'm feeling good about the plumbing.









 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
Yup. I'm very close to a water test. Just need to glue the return and plug the CL for a water test.
 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
Im glued well at least my return and manifold is. The closed loop is not done until it gets moved inside. Well I did a partial water test today. I realized that my tank is on a pretty large pitch since its in the garage and I forgot to remove the 2x4s under the stand so I just filled it about 1/3 of the way. I was able to check the manifold as well as the return for leaks. The manifold looked good as far as I could tell. As for the return, I noticed one leak near the union which is inside the sump. Unfortunately I had the valves turned all the way off which pressurized the pipe and I believe that is what caused the drip Once I shut it down and opened the valves I didn't notice the drip. I didn't really get a chance to run it long enough but think I should be good. What is the best way to fix a leak anyway?




 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
On the leak....your saying it on the return.....Basically Bob the best advice is to run it with fresh water and see exactly where the leak is...I for 1 won't give the advice of a small leak is ok and with saltwater is might seal itself.....Can you advise where the leak actually is.......
 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
If you look at the return pump, just above the union there are 2 45s. That is where I noticed a leak. Hopefully this weekend I can get inside and filled up so I can do a leak check.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Are you sure that everything is glued.....I've made the mistake while dry fitting and getting ahead of myself and didn't glue a section....I primered, but never glued. It gave me fits....Worse case if it is glued, cut it out and redo that section.......Looks good though!!!!!!
 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
I did a full water test and everything looked great. The bean overflow is very quiet I still need to fine tune it but see the potential There was an occasional flush (nothing crazy just a lil one) but I believe that is from the pipe too far in the sump. I also didn't drill any holes in the bottom or top stand pipes which I believe needs to be done?




 
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