415 Gallon Plywood Tank Build

[acrylic51]

That's why I had mentioned about the lacquer finish...Doing a bit of reading poly yellow over time and will distort the color of your project as the lacquer won't. I'm also under the impression from my readings that lacquer is actually a harder finish as well, is why I was looking that way. You figure over time with cleaning and wiping down the pieces do take some abuse. I have decided to spray the whole thing instead of brushing...I just want to practice a good bit, before I tackle that.....
 
Another good place to possibly look for finishes (clear coats) would be Jamestown Distributors. They deal nothing but marine items, and cater to boats, and they definitely would have something for the discriminating boat builder.....I'll have to peak their catalog later!!!!

 

[2quills]

Yeah I also read that it's easier to do repairs on a lacquer finish as well...you may be on to something there.

 

[acrylic51]

Honestly I've never worked with lacquer, but I want the highest quality finish.....I'm really picky when it comes to shine.....I'm a high gloss/wet look guy. I was looking at specs as far as spraying Poly, and they don't put the info out there as to how to properly thin the material down, so you have to hunt with the manufacturer, that is how I came across the info on the lacquer. I've never really noticed the "yellowing" of poly, because if you honestly think about it your tank stand/canopy isn't really exposed to UV....the outside anyways.....So point on UV protectant is kind of mundane????
 
I want a tough hard quality finish, because you know accidents and dings can/will happen, and easier to repair as you stated, and nothing more than I hate is parties and guest that don't fully understand putting drinks and such on my stand......

You've seen my last stand and you know how much time I spent just in the clear finish....I chase with a dry brush so I have no runs, and on vertical hung panels that can be PITA. That's why I made everything fully removable, so I can lay it flat and work!!!!!
 
I'll have to get you pics of those hinges and if I can dig out my european bit and jig!!!!!!!

 

[2quills]

Well I've read up on a number of sites and threads here lately. From what I understand, everybody is saying that the poly is the toughest, but lacquer is one of the toughest finishes as well. There are different variations of each so picking the right one is key. The lacquer is what most furniture makers use and is water resistant but I've also heard that you don't really want it for a bar or table top because you don't want water sitting on it. But then I read about the different variations being that some lacquer is solvent based (if I got that correct), one is oil based and the other water. It's either the solvent or the oil (not sure which, can't remember, have to double check) is better than the other as far as being resistant to water stains. It is also noxious when applied so best to have a respirator on hand when spraying.
 
But, I think you're on to something, man. The benefits when it comes to applying are far superior...especially with the dry time and not having to sand between coats. I really like the thought of that. And the fact that it's supposed to be easier to fix if the finish does get scratched or ding'd.

 

[acrylic51]

I would have to look again, but I'm pretty sure your going to find the oil base is what you'd actually want to use vs the water base...Actually for my bar top I'm going to use the actual epoxy bar top coating.....I guarantee you won't find anything harder or clearer than a good properly poured epoxy finish.......I'm lookin at 3 Systems sold at WoodCraft as well..........
 

 

[2quills]

Yeah deffinately not waterbase but there was another one that was some type of solvent based, it puts off noxious fumes when you apply it but I want to say that one was a better choice even more so than the oil base...I'll have to find that site again and get back with ya on that. You gonna go for an actually spray rig or just get a gun for the compressor?

 

[acrylic51]

Hey Corey here's a pic of the hinge bit and jig.

 
Here's a pic of the European style hinges I picked up to use on the front panel of the canopy....

 
Looks like the standard European hinge, but here it is flipped over showing the little closing/control cylinder on the back side.

 

[acrylic51]

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/376802/415-gallon-plywood-tank-build/340#post_3305299
Yeah deffinately not waterbase but there was another one that was some type of solvent based, it puts off noxious fumes when you apply it but I want to say that one was a better choice even more so than the oil base...I'll have to find that site again and get back with ya on that. You gonna go for an actually spray rig or just get a gun for the compressor?
Actually was looking at the WoodRiver gun that has gotten decent reviews, but have also been looking at an actual spray rig. Just not sure how much use I'll get out of it though....That's the hard part justifying the cost.....

 

[2quills]

I did a search the other night on spraying finishes and came across a thread...was a few guys on there that said that's what they used was just a gun with a compressor. I'm sure pro's would have a rig but it's not always the price of the tool but more in the way that you use it that's the key.

 

[acrylic51]

Have you seen some of the prices on some of the rigs....Pro quality "decent" rigs start around $900.00 easily....for someone like you or I.....

Like I had mentioned the WoodRiver gun has gotten decent results, a lot has to do with your supply air.....and with your clear finishes, air temp will play a part in how it lays.....WoodCraft has a decent rig, but still a little more than I want to spend on something I might use 1 or 2 times a year.....Still time to look into options....
 
On to another note here are some bad pics of the bar top cut an routed and set into place....Next step is to drill for pocket holes to join the 2 pieces together and then drill the pieces to accept the magnets to hold it in place. As I had noted back near the beginning, that everything will be able to be pulled completely apart to allow me access to any point I might need to get at.

In the pic you can see the plywood base of the stand where the tank will sit on......

Again a showing the plywood base and how I finished off the trim work....The flat board above the molding is where it will be drilled and
magnets epoxied in place to attach the bar top ledge.

Here the bar top ledge is set into place for dry fit.

Still need a little clean up work done with the sandpaper but should be rather quick....

 

[acrylic51]

Got the new front panel cut, fitted and mounted....had to do alittle modification to the very upper corners of the canopy to get the door to open without dragging. Nothing major and cant really tell. The only thing I'm disappointed with is that; the door is actually to heavy for the hinges to hold it in the extended open position, but actually controls the door when it's closing. No banging or clanging as the door closes which I do like. Now to solve the issue with it not being able to hold the door in the open position. I might actually have to go back to the original plan of using the dual dampers on the door.
 
Will have to get some pics posted of the door panel in place later this evening!!!!!!

 

[acrylic51]

I think I might have solved my own issue!!!! Looking at the panel and thinking that the hinges did lock uninstalled; it's possible I might have to make the relief cut a little wider to allow the door a bit more travel!!!! The things you think of on the drive to work!!!!!

 

[2quills]

 
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/376802/415-gallon-plywood-tank-build/340#post_3307584
I think I might have solved my own issue!!!! Looking at the panel and thinking that the hinges did lock uninstalled; it's possible I might have to make the relief cut a little wider to allow the door a bit more travel!!!! The things you think of on the drive to work!!!!!
lol...currious to see if they work out for ya. I may have to invest in some, myself. How wide do they open...100 degree - 110??

 

[acrylic51]

Honestly Corey I love the hinges!!!!! I think off the too of my head they open 110*, but the could be 100*. Either way they should snap to the fully open position, so I either have ro relief it a bit more on the corners; which u can't really see at all, or I might have to bevel the piece that the hinges attach to actually on the canopy. This why, a while back I had briefly mentioned the router bit that you would use when doing drop leafs for a table top to give youself a little clearance. I'm not binding anywhere just should be able to get them to fully lock open, but not really sure if it is a real big deal since only really for feeding. I will have to post pics to make it really clear when I get home tonight.
Suprisingly the hinges do control the door rather smoothly. I will also have to elaborate more on stiffing the panel against warpage as well!!!!

 

[2quills]

Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/376802/415-gallon-plywood-tank-build/340#post_3307663
Honestly Corey I love the hinges!!!!! I think off the too of my head they open 110*, but the could be 100*. Either way they should snap to the fully open position, so I either have ro relief it a bit more on the corners; which u can't really see at all, or I might have to bevel the piece that the hinges attach to actually on the canopy. This why, a while back I had briefly mentioned the router bit that you would use when doing drop leafs for a table top to give youself a little clearance. I'm not binding anywhere just should be able to get them to fully lock open, but not really sure if it is a real big deal since only really for feeding. I will have to post pics to make it really clear when I get home tonight.
Suprisingly the hinges do control the door rather smoothly. I will also have to elaborate more on stiffing the panel against warpage as well!!!!
That's cool! Got me interested in them now. How many hinges do you plan on putting on the door and what are your doors dimensions. Mine is 61" x 14.5" so it's fairly heavy as far as canopy doors go. Those hinges, they lock automatically when fully open you said? Do they unlock automatically as well when you make a certain kind of motion or movement with the door? Or do they work just like the dampener shocks?
 

 

[acrylic51]

The hinges actually when fully opened should lock open. To get them to close you start the door shut and it takes over controlling the closing speed. I just think my issue is not enough relief area for them to fully open. We'll see later tonight once I'm home. No they don't control themselves or automatically go to the full open/lock position. You have to manually do that. I wanted them or dual dampers just to control. We all know at some point the lid/top slams shut or slips from your hand. This way that error is negated.
My door panel is roughly 45" long about 8" high. Right now it's just 3/4" solid wood, and will be adding reinforcements to stop warpage on the panel; which we'll discuss in a bit. I actually have 3 hinges on the door. Worse case I will have to add another and adjust the spacing if needed.
I will get some update pics a bit later tonight.

 

[2quills]

Wondering if the modification worked...
 
They must be holding you hostage at work again.

 

[acrylic51]

Sorry about the slow response....yes work has kept me busy CDL training and all, and then a new radiator and hoses in my daughters truck Thursday night right after work didn't leave much time for anything.......

 
I did widen the relief cuts for the door to open wider Corey, but sad to say the door is to heavy for the hinges in that position. I had honestly thought about adding another hinge, but don't feel it will still be enough to support the weight of the door. The door is nothing more than the skin and the molding, and I haven't even gotten around to reinforcing the back side to ward off any warpage. So I'm back to either going with the dual dampers as originally planned or I was looking at another type of spring loaded locking mechanism, but not sure I really like the locking mechanism, and think it will snap the door closed to fast and hard for what I would actually like.
 
Started on the last bit of molding detail work on the canopy. I had been procrastinating building the last corner standoff for the canopy for whatever reason

. They aren't hard to build, but I've been avoiding it, and finally buckled down and all but done. Need to get the canopy back inside and get back into place so I can mock up the mount holes for the magnets. This standoff will be removeable. I have to make this removeable for 2 reasons. 1 is to support that end of the canopy, and the other is to hide the mount screw holes. I guess I could use some type of plug, but feel getting them to match up would/might be an issue, or I could just cut my own plugs out of scrap I have left over....still trying to decide.
 
Did get the surround speaker cover mounted into place. Didn't put any speaker cloth yet on the back side. Figured I can and should wait until the canopy is stained and clear coat applied so there isn't any mess on it......
 
Will have to get some updated pics of the canopy up shortly. Off to play with making my own wood putty now!!!!!!

 

[2quills]

Will be waiting patiently to see the latest results.
 
Well thats a bit of a bummer about the hinges, I was kind of holding out with high hopes for them. Maybe between the hinges and a couple of cabinet door struts will do the trick. Perhaps you can find the locking ones kind of like the ones you find on screen doors with the little slide plate that locks them if they won't do it on their own. If not I'm sure some heavy duty struts would do the trick. Might actually have to work a little bit to get the door down though with some type of catch possibly. I've checked out Door Stays but haven't really seen any that I liked yet.

 

[acrylic51]

I know the dual dampers would work, just hate ordering and waiting on parts when I get on a roll. Those can be special ordered for the weight of the door if you have all the specs of the door. Yes the door catch I think will be a bit to much. I played around with them Friday, and they have a bit of adjustment to them, but wasn't bowled over with them, so decided to leave and go home and think bit more. At times I don't know if I should truly worry about it staying open since basically all it would be used for is feeding, but I know there will come that moment when I need it propped open for something.
 
I had thought about screen door openers, but they are to long/big for the area. I might have to stop in somewhere like PepBoys and check out the hatch/hood shocks and see if I might stumble onto something. Did you look at the site I had mentioned earlier on in the thread where I found the dual dampers? Pics coming!!!!!!!!