415 Gallon Plywood Tank Build

2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/376802/415-gallon-plywood-tank-build/400#post_3315114
Corey I had thought about using epoxy for the clear coat on the stand such as the bar top, but that would be such a pain in the a$$ to flip and rotate to get it to cover......You'll have to play with some epoxy some time....It's not bad on a open area, but getting good coverage in all the little detail areas would be a nightmare!!!!
Yeah that's what I was thinking. It looks damn sharp though.
Would some simple child safety latches work for the doors...or would that not be enough security?
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
The locks are more for the grown adults that don't understand they aren't welcomed under the stand unless they ask!!!!!
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Drunk adults are even worse than kids.
Just a thought if it's concealability that you're after...I don't know if it would be practical to use something like these because I don't know how easy it would be to reach them under your stand from the back, especially once you get the plumbing ran. But window latches could be mounted on the inside...you can always lock them when you know that guests are coming and unlock them after they leave since you'll have the ability to lock the door to the fish room. Could maybe even install the child safety latches for protection from the 2 year old, then once she's grown or out of the house you can always take them off.
These are the kind of latches that I was thinking...again not sure how practical it would be to be able to reach them, just thinking that you wouldn't have to see them on the front of the stand.
 
posiden

posiden

Active Member
I like those 2Quills. That's a good idea.
Since there is a lock on the filter room door, is the back of the stand open? If so, you might be able to pin one side of the panel (Say the bottom, think of locater/alignment pins) and then use those widow latches to secure it in place from the inside. You should only need 1 per panel that way. Two would be better.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Looks pretty neat.....I will have to get down to the family room and take a peak....I still have to get the pics as well...this might work, but the stand is deep but totally open inside the fish room, so I might be able to reach them from the 1 side inside the fish room and the other I should be able to reach from the side door....Will have to check later this evening!!!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/376802/415-gallon-plywood-tank-build/400#post_3315143
Drunk adults are even worse than kids.
Just a thought if it's concealability that you're after...I don't know if it would be practical to use something like these because I don't know how easy it would be to reach them under your stand from the back, especially once you get the plumbing ran. But window latches could be mounted on the inside...you can always lock them when you know that guests are coming and unlock them after they leave since you'll have the ability to lock the door to the fish room. Could maybe even install the child safety latches for protection from the 2 year old, then once she's grown or out of the house you can always take them off.
These are the kind of latches that I was thinking...again not sure how practical it would be to be able to reach them, just thinking that you wouldn't have to see them on the front of the stand.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Here's a couple pics that will hopefully help with what I'm looking at.......The door actually overlaps onto the stand skin by roughly 2"....maybe the same on top and bottom didn't actually measure, but here's a couple pics.....


This is a shot of the inside door frame area.....

Kind of shows the door overlap somewhat.
 
posiden

posiden

Active Member
So, it looks to me like the raised panel portion is the same size if not a tad bit larger then the opening in the stand?? Like the rails and styles are your over lap. If that's so, I'm almost thinking of a key hole configuration to use those lock cylinders you got??? What does the inside of your door look like? Is it flat on the inside or is there a lip that goes inside of the opening?
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Your correct Posiden....The rail and style is the overlap on the door opening.....The back side of the door panel is flat. The insert of the door can be removed so it's not totally solid/1 piece. The door locks I did purchase has 2 different ends for the end of the lock cylinder....1 is longer and has a bend in it, and the other is short with the same sort of bend. I'm thinking maybe if the end on the end of the cylinder was short, but straight would be the ticket?????
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
That would be a viable option I think, cutting basically a keywhole configuration in order to use the cam locks. You could cut the shape of the latch out on the cabinet face, and then releive an area on the back by maybe using a forstner bit to drill through the back of the 2x6 that meets up with the back of the cabinet face where the latch shape cut out would be. That would allow the latch to go through the face and be able to turn and then catch once you locked it.
It looks like the window latches would also work if you installed them on the top or bottom of the doors or both.
You could always add hardware to the doors and run one of those child safety locks that's designed to wrap around the hardware...that would at least act as a deterant for people to know not to go it there. Probably wouldn't work for the single side door though.
Maybe some caution tape and a handful of hazmat signs would do the trick as well....
 
posiden

posiden

Active Member
Ok, new ideas.
Place the lock cylinders in/on the stand itself and place a slotted tab on the back of the door panel. That would allow the lock cylinder to come around and slid into the slot in the tab grabbing on to the door. Down fall here is, more locks are needed, and I'm unsure how this your raised panel is. It might not like screws being run into it, the screws might have to be so short so they wont come through the outside. That it wont be very strong.
Or
Use a single lock cylinder in the center of the door, and using the idea behind a truck canopy. (Or a safe) The lock will turn the locking rods and the door will be secured at both the top and bottom ends. You can get those rod assemblies from any truck accessory shop that sell canopy's. Down fall here is there will be a lock right in the center of the door panel.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
I see both your points....I had thought about drilling the center of stand face between the doors, but I had thought about the 2x6 snug behind the skin.....but your actually correct I could relieve the 2x6 and then route through the inside the the frame skin frame work, basically creating a slot for the catch mechanism to move up and down.......I had also thought of your idea Posiden and hadn't thought about checking out a truck specialty shop. I do have a couple local so shouldn't be an issue finding the parts. I like the idea of keeping the locks down low on the stand skin, actually kind of out of sight. Trust me warning signs would only make them want to get in....I dread parties period, and hate protecting my tank, like a "spoiled little kid that never learned to share", but sometimes people just don't honestly understand how much you put into your systems, not just monetarily, but sweat and blood......And it only takes 1 still to wreak havoc on a system....

When I had talked about cutting "relieving" the inside door skin frame work, I was referring to the area in the bottom right of the pic here????
 
posiden

posiden

Active Member
It might be pretty tight to place two lock cylinders side by side on that middle brace?? What diameter hole do they require?
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Al right.....the door lock saga continues!!!!!
I was wondering around Lowes the other day, waiting for some acrylic glue to dry....Flower (giving me an excuse to go to Lowes)....I just happened to be wondering around aimlessly as usual, and happen to stumble upon these. Not the color of choice, but honestly they would be inside the stand, and the stand inside is white as it is.....What do you guys think?
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/376802/415-gallon-plywood-tank-build/420#post_3316722
Al right.....the door lock saga continues!!!!!
I was wondering around Lowes the other day, waiting for some acrylic glue to dry....Flower (giving me an excuse to go to Lowes)....I just happened to be wondering around aimlessly as usual, and happen to stumble upon these. Not the color of choice, but honestly they would be inside the stand, and the stand inside is white as it is.....What do you guys think?

Those could work. When I looked at those in your picture I just thought of those gate latches for some reason...mounted on the back of the doors on the top or bottom...with a hole drilled into the side of the cabinet face for the rod to slide into perhaps?
stainless steel...
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Thanks Corey...I had looked at the barrel bolts....I like the push/release ones....I'm going to have to give them a call in the morning about pricing....
 
posiden

posiden

Active Member
Just wondering about doing something custom to fit the bill. Are you, or anyone you know a weldor? Not just a structural type. One that can get down and fab metal. You do great wood work, you can work metal if you have the patience.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Yes.....My best friend at work is a genius with metal.....been trying to get him to teach me on the tig....What do you have in mind?
 
posiden

posiden

Active Member
I can't say anything special yet. I was wondering if you had access to that. If you had to go with a shop, a shop would charge an arm and a leg. I didn't want the end result to cost as much in money as, the time that has gone into the thought behind it.
I'm also glad to hear you say TIG. That too is just what I was thinking of.
Maybe I missed it, how deep is your stand? If you were gonna reach in from the back, how far would you need to reach to fiddle with this gizmo?
 
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