415 Gallon Plywood Tank Build
- Thread starter acrylic51
- Start date
acrylic51
Active Member
Alright....Been a little busy on Flowers specs for the sump/fuge build. Should have parts in house late this week, compliments of my buddies at Grims Plastic.....I did have a couple seconds to sneak away from the sump/fuge build and play a little more with the stain....I think I've finally found something that I can deal with and the wife likes it better than my first choice, so the verdict is somewhat in!!!!!!
Sneak peak of the stain choice!!!!
Sorry about the fingerprints....I went with just 1 coat of stain and let it sit for roughly 10 minutes and wiped it down....It has 2 coats of poly
that I rushed for whatever reason....Here is another shot as well!!!
Sneak peak of the stain choice!!!!
Sorry about the fingerprints....I went with just 1 coat of stain and let it sit for roughly 10 minutes and wiped it down....It has 2 coats of poly
that I rushed for whatever reason....Here is another shot as well!!!
acrylic51
Active Member
Thanks!!!! Who are you kidding!!!!!
I am so anxious myself, and all the detail sanding with all the trim work with 220 grit!!!!!
It's slowly coming though...now is the time to check and double check all the little imperfections, cause they will show as soon as the stain hits them....I've hit areas a couple times and only to have come back with the super bright work lights to see I didn't get all of it. I did a little reading and some of Corey's advice....I am raising the grain before hand, with hot/warm water wipe down then sand....Actually producing super results that way.
al&burke
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/376802/415-gallon-plywood-tank-build/380#post_3313401
Alright....Been a little busy on Flowers specs for the sump/fuge build. Should have parts in house late this week, compliments of my buddies at Grims Plastic.....I did have a couple seconds to sneak away from the sump/fuge build and play a little more with the stain....I think I've finally found something that I can deal with and the wife likes it better than my first choice, so the verdict is somewhat in!!!!!!
Sneak peak of the stain choice!!!!
Sorry about the fingerprints....I went with just 1 coat of stain and let it sit for roughly 10 minutes and wiped it down....It has 2 coats of poly
that I rushed for whatever reason....Here is another shot as well!!!
Like this color as well Shawn, can't wait to see this finished.
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/376802/415-gallon-plywood-tank-build/380#post_3313401
Alright....Been a little busy on Flowers specs for the sump/fuge build. Should have parts in house late this week, compliments of my buddies at Grims Plastic.....I did have a couple seconds to sneak away from the sump/fuge build and play a little more with the stain....I think I've finally found something that I can deal with and the wife likes it better than my first choice, so the verdict is somewhat in!!!!!!
Sneak peak of the stain choice!!!!
Sorry about the fingerprints....I went with just 1 coat of stain and let it sit for roughly 10 minutes and wiped it down....It has 2 coats of poly
that I rushed for whatever reason....Here is another shot as well!!!
Like this color as well Shawn, can't wait to see this finished.
acrylic51
Active Member
Hmmmm.....I've been eyeing the tank, and Jamestown Distributors has the epoxy and stuff on sale, so payday will be getting the rest of the epoxy.....I still need to glass the vertical posts inside the tank, the overflow walls need to be glassed as well. Not that it really needs it, but I figure if I glass some why not all of it. Once all the glassing is done, the surface will need to be roughed up a bit, and the finish pour coats to make it nice and smooth needs to be done. I still have the thought in the back of my mind about the faux sand bed, but still haven't made a definite decision. Still need to decide on the color to tint the epoxy as well. I had thought about doing the bottom white, and a SSB ????
I want to get some of the background material and play around with setting it in epoxy. I've never been 1 to let the back of the tank get totally encrusted.....I think it's more that I don't care for the stages it goes through before it's covered....Just me, but no definite decision as of yet. What do you guys suggest??????
Still have to make the decision as whether I'm going either glass or acrylic. I'm leaning heavily towards acrylic, probably due to the shipping aspect of it.....and I've been thinking a couple ideas with the acrylic as well, and the external wavebox will be done out of acrylic, so I'm leaning on staying with 1 material the whole way around the tank, which means 1 sealant instead of 2 different ones.....
The stand is moving along rather well. Have to touch up a piece of the trim...I left the 7' level sitting by the stand and of course the granddaughter bumped it and it nicked the trim....Honestly you wouldn't see it in pics or probably notice it in person, but it kills me everyday I go downstairs!!!!!!! I still have to finish routing out the side door on the stand and cutting and routing the door insert for there as well. I also have to remove the front panel and wet it down and do a finish sand. All the other pieces are done, but might go over them all 1 last time before stain goes to them. The canopy is up and not looking forward to pulling it down, but it will be a lot easier to work on it at eye level to do some putty work and finish detail sanding. Plus the wife hates the sanding done in the house, and I hate the clean up as well.
Still haven't decided If I'm going to spray the clear coat or do it by hand....I'd actually love to try my hand at spraying, and was even at WoodCraft again eyeing the spray gun, and they actually have the Earlux spray system on sale!!!!!!
I still have a few areas in the fishroom to finish up or tie up as well. Still haven't made the final decision as whether to clear coat the floor I epoxied in the fishroom or not.....Waiting to make my final decision before I put in the door threshold and the baseboard molding as well. Still have some misc wiring to do under the stand and up to the light rack.....
Actually tomorrow everything will calm down quite a bit......the past 3-3 1/2 months I've been training quite a few guys for their CDL tests, most have passed, and a few I don't think there is any help for, but tomorrow is my big day....I take my test tomorrow afternoon....so I'll be able to spend a little more time on getting the tank finish......
Still have to make the decision as whether I'm going either glass or acrylic. I'm leaning heavily towards acrylic, probably due to the shipping aspect of it.....and I've been thinking a couple ideas with the acrylic as well, and the external wavebox will be done out of acrylic, so I'm leaning on staying with 1 material the whole way around the tank, which means 1 sealant instead of 2 different ones.....
The stand is moving along rather well. Have to touch up a piece of the trim...I left the 7' level sitting by the stand and of course the granddaughter bumped it and it nicked the trim....Honestly you wouldn't see it in pics or probably notice it in person, but it kills me everyday I go downstairs!!!!!!! I still have to finish routing out the side door on the stand and cutting and routing the door insert for there as well. I also have to remove the front panel and wet it down and do a finish sand. All the other pieces are done, but might go over them all 1 last time before stain goes to them. The canopy is up and not looking forward to pulling it down, but it will be a lot easier to work on it at eye level to do some putty work and finish detail sanding. Plus the wife hates the sanding done in the house, and I hate the clean up as well.
Still haven't decided If I'm going to spray the clear coat or do it by hand....I'd actually love to try my hand at spraying, and was even at WoodCraft again eyeing the spray gun, and they actually have the Earlux spray system on sale!!!!!!
I still have a few areas in the fishroom to finish up or tie up as well. Still haven't made the final decision as whether to clear coat the floor I epoxied in the fishroom or not.....Waiting to make my final decision before I put in the door threshold and the baseboard molding as well. Still have some misc wiring to do under the stand and up to the light rack.....
Actually tomorrow everything will calm down quite a bit......the past 3-3 1/2 months I've been training quite a few guys for their CDL tests, most have passed, and a few I don't think there is any help for, but tomorrow is my big day....I take my test tomorrow afternoon....so I'll be able to spend a little more time on getting the tank finish......
2quills
Well-Known Member
Good luck on your test, I'm sure you'll do fine.
I can't remember where off the top of my head where but I did see a thread or two where some other guys tried to do a faux sand bed with epoxy over on another site. Did you see those by any chance? I don't think they turned out to great. I like the idea of a ssb, I believe that's what I'll be going with this go around, myself. Would it matter what color you tinted the bottom if you covered it with sand? Or are you thinking that incase some gets moved around then it wouldn't be so noticeable with a white bottom? That's probably a good idea if that was what you were thinking.
The level...OUCH!!! lol I guess that's all part of having kids around the house though. Whadda ya do?
Something I don't really recall reading about is how thick of a coat you'll get spraying the finish. Obviously multiple coats would be in order for good protection, but something I'm not sure on is if you can achieve the same thick glassy look as you can applying the old fashion way. Not sure if you're actually going for that look this go around though, I just know how much you like the look and I kind of do to. I think 4-5 coats is going to be my magic number/s.
I can't remember where off the top of my head where but I did see a thread or two where some other guys tried to do a faux sand bed with epoxy over on another site. Did you see those by any chance? I don't think they turned out to great. I like the idea of a ssb, I believe that's what I'll be going with this go around, myself. Would it matter what color you tinted the bottom if you covered it with sand? Or are you thinking that incase some gets moved around then it wouldn't be so noticeable with a white bottom? That's probably a good idea if that was what you were thinking.
The level...OUCH!!! lol I guess that's all part of having kids around the house though. Whadda ya do?
Something I don't really recall reading about is how thick of a coat you'll get spraying the finish. Obviously multiple coats would be in order for good protection, but something I'm not sure on is if you can achieve the same thick glassy look as you can applying the old fashion way. Not sure if you're actually going for that look this go around though, I just know how much you like the look and I kind of do to. I think 4-5 coats is going to be my magic number/s.
acrylic51
Active Member
I'm pretty sure I'll be ok....It's just the fact of having someone watching you double clutch, when I can easily slide through the gears without you feeling a change.....But hey that's the game!!!!!
On the subject of faux sand beds I do remember a few threads....the one that sticks in my mind the most was the guy that did it with a glass tank, and with the heat generated by the epoxy, the tank cracked before he ever got water to it, but with the plywood tank; that wouldn't be much an issue due to the simple fact you already have an established buildup of epoxy shielding the tank bottom itself....I have thought about going BB and SSB as well. I guess the purpose of the white or any color for that fact would serve as 2 purposes....(1) being that it would reflect light better than any other, and if the sand did get blown or moved around, you wouldn't really notice it as you had mentioned. (2) My other logic behind tinting the bottom would be that if an issue did go bad with the tank bottom; such as flaking or peeling it would easily be noticeable due to the top portion of the epoxy not being colored(tinted). Maybe my logic or thinking might be off a bit, but just thinking.
On the subject of the back of the tank, as I had mentioned is questionable again. When you pour the epoxy, it generates heat, and not totally sure how that will affect the background material, and the other thing to consider is that during the gas out stage of the epoxy curing you might encounter little air bubbles, which can easily be negated with the use of a propane torch while still in a liquid state. I'm not sure if that might affect the background material from laying flat and not wanting to curl. I guess the only thing would be is try and see what results I get. My other option was to either tint the back either black or blue. I've never had a tank with a blue background, and it does look good.....Hopefully I can get some help from the photo experts out there which color background is easier to photograph. I will probably go with the tinting the back, but trying to weigh all options.
The touchup work on the trim won't be that bad.....I think it's more an issue that I know I shouldn't have left it there, and a 2yr old doesn't know any better.....Since were on that topic of 2yr olds, I had mentioned awhile ago about putting door locks on all the doors on the front of the stand.....I want it to be as hidden as possible. Anyone have any good ideas or thoughts on that area? I did pick up some locks today at Lowes.....The unfortunate thing is that they won't work with what I have due to the construction of the face of the stand. I did go to Rocklers site and looked around and came up with another idea, but what they had listed there and the reviews were that they were only designed for right hand doors, and the reviews stated they weren't reversible, so that creates another issue....I will have to take a pic of the stand/door/lock dilemia and get everyones ideas an opinions......
As far as the thickness of finish coat....I was at my favorite place WoodCraft Monday....I still haven't done any research really into the true difference between lacquer and poly. I know Corey and I had tossed around some general issues on that area. I guess my biggest thing with the lacquer is the quick dry time/setup time, which reduces greatly the dust issue....My main issue with doing poly is all the little intricate detail pieces on the trim work...I guess it comes down to time!!!
. I did some reading on the lacquer at WoodCraft and it's specs said 4mil max thickness Corey, so.....I do know going that route they carry satin, and gloss finish in lacquer, and if you wanted an even higher gloss finish, you can buff it as well.....I know with the use of poly for sure I can obtain the finish I want, and does require quite a bit of work in between coats. As far as spraying poly; everything I've read is that you don't want to do it....The dedicated woodworking sites consistently say what a sticky overspray mess you'll have....I guess worse case you could fab yourself a temp spray booth with cheap tarps and PVC pipe as the frame work to try to contain most of the overspray??????
Here is a quick pic of the gang lock I was looking at for my stand....
Again I read the reviews, and not entirely sure why it couldn't be rotated around to be used on the door on the other side. Am I missing something?
Here is somewhat, what I picked up yesterday at Lowes, and my poor memory didn't take into account the construction of the front panel,
so this design won't work. I will have to get a pic of the problem area.
This I just happened to see flipping back and forth Rocklers pages....Just might be the ticket....the nice thing you can choose your finish, have all your locks keyed
alike!!!!!! Check them out and let me know what you think!!!!!
On the subject of faux sand beds I do remember a few threads....the one that sticks in my mind the most was the guy that did it with a glass tank, and with the heat generated by the epoxy, the tank cracked before he ever got water to it, but with the plywood tank; that wouldn't be much an issue due to the simple fact you already have an established buildup of epoxy shielding the tank bottom itself....I have thought about going BB and SSB as well. I guess the purpose of the white or any color for that fact would serve as 2 purposes....(1) being that it would reflect light better than any other, and if the sand did get blown or moved around, you wouldn't really notice it as you had mentioned. (2) My other logic behind tinting the bottom would be that if an issue did go bad with the tank bottom; such as flaking or peeling it would easily be noticeable due to the top portion of the epoxy not being colored(tinted). Maybe my logic or thinking might be off a bit, but just thinking.
On the subject of the back of the tank, as I had mentioned is questionable again. When you pour the epoxy, it generates heat, and not totally sure how that will affect the background material, and the other thing to consider is that during the gas out stage of the epoxy curing you might encounter little air bubbles, which can easily be negated with the use of a propane torch while still in a liquid state. I'm not sure if that might affect the background material from laying flat and not wanting to curl. I guess the only thing would be is try and see what results I get. My other option was to either tint the back either black or blue. I've never had a tank with a blue background, and it does look good.....Hopefully I can get some help from the photo experts out there which color background is easier to photograph. I will probably go with the tinting the back, but trying to weigh all options.
The touchup work on the trim won't be that bad.....I think it's more an issue that I know I shouldn't have left it there, and a 2yr old doesn't know any better.....Since were on that topic of 2yr olds, I had mentioned awhile ago about putting door locks on all the doors on the front of the stand.....I want it to be as hidden as possible. Anyone have any good ideas or thoughts on that area? I did pick up some locks today at Lowes.....The unfortunate thing is that they won't work with what I have due to the construction of the face of the stand. I did go to Rocklers site and looked around and came up with another idea, but what they had listed there and the reviews were that they were only designed for right hand doors, and the reviews stated they weren't reversible, so that creates another issue....I will have to take a pic of the stand/door/lock dilemia and get everyones ideas an opinions......
As far as the thickness of finish coat....I was at my favorite place WoodCraft Monday....I still haven't done any research really into the true difference between lacquer and poly. I know Corey and I had tossed around some general issues on that area. I guess my biggest thing with the lacquer is the quick dry time/setup time, which reduces greatly the dust issue....My main issue with doing poly is all the little intricate detail pieces on the trim work...I guess it comes down to time!!!
Here is a quick pic of the gang lock I was looking at for my stand....
Again I read the reviews, and not entirely sure why it couldn't be rotated around to be used on the door on the other side. Am I missing something?
Here is somewhat, what I picked up yesterday at Lowes, and my poor memory didn't take into account the construction of the front panel,
so this design won't work. I will have to get a pic of the problem area.
This I just happened to see flipping back and forth Rocklers pages....Just might be the ticket....the nice thing you can choose your finish, have all your locks keyed
alike!!!!!! Check them out and let me know what you think!!!!!
acrylic51
Active Member
I did get a little work done on the stand yesterday!!!! I started installing the magnetic catches for the bar top on the stand....I don't really want or intend it to be used, but I know during my wife's annual family Christmas party someone, somehow will wind up setting something there.....This is the area where I am considering not using a poly or lacquer finish. This area I'm seriously considering using what is called "Mirror Coat". I think it's made by 3 Systems, and I know Lowes carries a brand as well. This is a clear epoxy, and I know it will be tougher than any poly or lacquer finish.......
MirrorCoat is a pourable, self-leveling bar and tabletop coating. It works well on many surfaces such as wood, ceramics, plaster, masonry and some plastics. MirrorCoat cures to a glossy, smooth finish that is scratch and stain resistant. Cured MirrorCoat is waterproof and unaffected by alcohol. Turbo Cure may be added speed up cures during cold weather. Use a maximum of 1 fluid ounce per quart of resin. MirrorCoat hardeners ship as hazardous and will incur additional charges when shipped via air. Ground shipments generally do not have additional hazard charges.
Here is the start of me fabbing up the mounting position for the magnetic catches for the bar top. I used alignment pins to make sure they line up perfectly.
Holes being drilled in the frame work underneath.
Sorry for the poor pic, but gives you an idea what the alignment pin looks like. They are great for getting 2 pieces to line up perfectly
and drilling your holes dead on.....
Once your holes are drilled to accept the alignment pins you drop the pins in the holes, and take your piece and set into place, and
press down on your top piece and flip the piece over and you have perfectly aligned marks. All you have to do is drill.
I have to get some pics of the bar top. I have it out in the garage drilling the pocket holes to join the 2 halves, so it can be lifted and installed as 1 complete unit....Again everything is going to be completely removable from the frame itself to allow ease of getting the tank up into place and to also avoid any damage to the stand itself during setting the tank into place.
MirrorCoat is a pourable, self-leveling bar and tabletop coating. It works well on many surfaces such as wood, ceramics, plaster, masonry and some plastics. MirrorCoat cures to a glossy, smooth finish that is scratch and stain resistant. Cured MirrorCoat is waterproof and unaffected by alcohol. Turbo Cure may be added speed up cures during cold weather. Use a maximum of 1 fluid ounce per quart of resin. MirrorCoat hardeners ship as hazardous and will incur additional charges when shipped via air. Ground shipments generally do not have additional hazard charges.
1-1/2 Quart kit covers approximately 9.6 sq. ft
You can actually create "floating" objects in your finish by embedding them between coats
Perfect for bar and table tops, decoupage, small clocks and crafts
Super hard finish
Has more depth than any other topcoat
Here is the start of me fabbing up the mounting position for the magnetic catches for the bar top. I used alignment pins to make sure they line up perfectly.
Holes being drilled in the frame work underneath.
Sorry for the poor pic, but gives you an idea what the alignment pin looks like. They are great for getting 2 pieces to line up perfectly
and drilling your holes dead on.....
Once your holes are drilled to accept the alignment pins you drop the pins in the holes, and take your piece and set into place, and
press down on your top piece and flip the piece over and you have perfectly aligned marks. All you have to do is drill.
I have to get some pics of the bar top. I have it out in the garage drilling the pocket holes to join the 2 halves, so it can be lifted and installed as 1 complete unit....Again everything is going to be completely removable from the frame itself to allow ease of getting the tank up into place and to also avoid any damage to the stand itself during setting the tank into place.
acrylic51
Active Member
Quote:Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/376802/415-gallon-plywood-tank-build/400#post_3313808
I'm pretty sure I'll be ok....It's just the fact of having someone watching you double clutch, when I can easily slide through the gears without you feeling a change.....But hey that's the game!!!!!
On the subject of faux sand beds I do remember a few threads....the one that sticks in my mind the most was the guy that did it with a glass tank, and with the heat generated by the epoxy, the tank cracked before he ever got water to it, but with the plywood tank; that wouldn't be much an issue due to the simple fact you already have an established buildup of epoxy shielding the tank bottom itself....I have thought about going BB and SSB as well. I guess the purpose of the white or any color for that fact would serve as 2 purposes....(1) being that it would reflect light better than any other, and if the sand did get blown or moved around, you wouldn't really notice it as you had mentioned. (2) My other logic behind tinting the bottom would be that if an issue did go bad with the tank bottom; such as flaking or peeling it would easily be noticeable due to the top portion of the epoxy not being colored(tinted). Maybe my logic or thinking might be off a bit, but just thinking.
On the subject of the back of the tank, as I had mentioned is questionable again. When you pour the epoxy, it generates heat, and not totally sure how that will affect the background material, and the other thing to consider is that during the gas out stage of the epoxy curing you might encounter little air bubbles, which can easily be negated with the use of a propane torch while still in a liquid state. I'm not sure if that might affect the background material from laying flat and not wanting to curl. I guess the only thing would be is try and see what results I get. My other option was to either tint the back either black or blue. I've never had a tank with a blue background, and it does look good.....Hopefully I can get some help from the photo experts out there which color background is easier to photograph. I will probably go with the tinting the back, but trying to weigh all options.
Hmmmm.... Nobody has any good sources for locks?
The touchup work on the trim won't be that bad.....I think it's more an issue that I know I shouldn't have left it there, and a 2yr old doesn't know any better.....Since were on that topic of 2yr olds, I had mentioned awhile ago about putting door locks on all the doors on the front of the stand.....I want it to be as hidden as possible. Anyone have any good ideas or thoughts on that area? I did pick up some locks today at Lowes.....The unfortunate thing is that they won't work with what I have due to the construction of the face of the stand. I did go to Rocklers site and looked around and came up with another idea, but what they had listed there and the reviews were that they were only designed for right hand doors, and the reviews stated they weren't reversible, so that creates another issue....I will have to take a pic of the stand/door/lock dilemia and get everyones ideas an opinions......
As far as the thickness of finish coat....I was at my favorite place WoodCraft Monday....I still haven't done any research really into the true difference between lacquer and poly. I know Corey and I had tossed around some general issues on that area. I guess my biggest thing with the lacquer is the quick dry time/setup time, which reduces greatly the dust issue....My main issue with doing poly is all the little intricate detail pieces on the trim work...I guess it comes down to time!!!
. I did some reading on the lacquer at WoodCraft and it's specs said 4mil max thickness Corey, so.....I do know going that route they carry satin, and gloss finish in lacquer, and if you wanted an even higher gloss finish, you can buff it as well.....I know with the use of poly for sure I can obtain the finish I want, and does require quite a bit of work in between coats. As far as spraying poly; everything I've read is that you don't want to do it....The dedicated woodworking sites consistently say what a sticky overspray mess you'll have....I guess worse case you could fab yourself a temp spray booth with cheap tarps and PVC pipe as the frame work to try to contain most of the overspray??????
Here is a quick pic of the gang lock I was looking at for my stand....
Again I read the reviews, and not entirely sure why it couldn't be rotated around to be used on the door on the other side. Am I missing something?
Here is somewhat, what I picked up yesterday at Lowes, and my poor memory didn't take into account the construction of the front panel,
so this design won't work. I will have to get a pic of the problem area.
This I just happened to see flipping back and forth Rocklers pages....Just might be the ticket....the nice thing you can choose your finish, have all your locks keyed
alike!!!!!! Check them out and let me know what you think!!!!!
I'm pretty sure I'll be ok....It's just the fact of having someone watching you double clutch, when I can easily slide through the gears without you feeling a change.....But hey that's the game!!!!!
On the subject of faux sand beds I do remember a few threads....the one that sticks in my mind the most was the guy that did it with a glass tank, and with the heat generated by the epoxy, the tank cracked before he ever got water to it, but with the plywood tank; that wouldn't be much an issue due to the simple fact you already have an established buildup of epoxy shielding the tank bottom itself....I have thought about going BB and SSB as well. I guess the purpose of the white or any color for that fact would serve as 2 purposes....(1) being that it would reflect light better than any other, and if the sand did get blown or moved around, you wouldn't really notice it as you had mentioned. (2) My other logic behind tinting the bottom would be that if an issue did go bad with the tank bottom; such as flaking or peeling it would easily be noticeable due to the top portion of the epoxy not being colored(tinted). Maybe my logic or thinking might be off a bit, but just thinking.
On the subject of the back of the tank, as I had mentioned is questionable again. When you pour the epoxy, it generates heat, and not totally sure how that will affect the background material, and the other thing to consider is that during the gas out stage of the epoxy curing you might encounter little air bubbles, which can easily be negated with the use of a propane torch while still in a liquid state. I'm not sure if that might affect the background material from laying flat and not wanting to curl. I guess the only thing would be is try and see what results I get. My other option was to either tint the back either black or blue. I've never had a tank with a blue background, and it does look good.....Hopefully I can get some help from the photo experts out there which color background is easier to photograph. I will probably go with the tinting the back, but trying to weigh all options.
Hmmmm.... Nobody has any good sources for locks?
The touchup work on the trim won't be that bad.....I think it's more an issue that I know I shouldn't have left it there, and a 2yr old doesn't know any better.....Since were on that topic of 2yr olds, I had mentioned awhile ago about putting door locks on all the doors on the front of the stand.....I want it to be as hidden as possible. Anyone have any good ideas or thoughts on that area? I did pick up some locks today at Lowes.....The unfortunate thing is that they won't work with what I have due to the construction of the face of the stand. I did go to Rocklers site and looked around and came up with another idea, but what they had listed there and the reviews were that they were only designed for right hand doors, and the reviews stated they weren't reversible, so that creates another issue....I will have to take a pic of the stand/door/lock dilemia and get everyones ideas an opinions......
As far as the thickness of finish coat....I was at my favorite place WoodCraft Monday....I still haven't done any research really into the true difference between lacquer and poly. I know Corey and I had tossed around some general issues on that area. I guess my biggest thing with the lacquer is the quick dry time/setup time, which reduces greatly the dust issue....My main issue with doing poly is all the little intricate detail pieces on the trim work...I guess it comes down to time!!!
Here is a quick pic of the gang lock I was looking at for my stand....
Again I read the reviews, and not entirely sure why it couldn't be rotated around to be used on the door on the other side. Am I missing something?
Here is somewhat, what I picked up yesterday at Lowes, and my poor memory didn't take into account the construction of the front panel,
so this design won't work. I will have to get a pic of the problem area.
This I just happened to see flipping back and forth Rocklers pages....Just might be the ticket....the nice thing you can choose your finish, have all your locks keyed
alike!!!!!! Check them out and let me know what you think!!!!!
posiden
Active Member
I'm interested to see the area your having issues with on the lock. Maybe you can cut a slot for the locks bar to go into. Something like a biscuit slot. Only half of one. Maybe you just need to relieve the section with a dado router bit, if the lock barrel isn't long enough that is. I'm not a big fan of the long locking setups. Only because of rust issues. Even if they come in SS. The grade of SS could be very low. Having said that, I can't say that I have much experience with locks. I haven't put any on anything I've built.
I myself wouldn't place a background in the epoxy. Only because I don't like any of the backgrounds out there. I also think it might create a bit of an eye sore if you were able to keep all the visible areas totally clean.
Edit;
On the heat of the epoxy and the background. I don't think it would be an issue. You'll be pouring it out into a thin layer and the heat generated will be much less then what you feel in the mixing cup/bucket. The exothermic properties aren't very powerful when spread out IMO.
I myself wouldn't place a background in the epoxy. Only because I don't like any of the backgrounds out there. I also think it might create a bit of an eye sore if you were able to keep all the visible areas totally clean.
Edit;
On the heat of the epoxy and the background. I don't think it would be an issue. You'll be pouring it out into a thin layer and the heat generated will be much less then what you feel in the mixing cup/bucket. The exothermic properties aren't very powerful when spread out IMO.
2quills
Well-Known Member
Currious, myself. I've actually installed a lock just like the one you said wouldn't work in the same type of application shown in the picture of the other one that you mentioned might, and it was on a 3/4" door with a 3/4" face frame. On those locks...the latch on the back should be reverseable, if not then they make some that are, or alot of times with those types of locks they give you some different sized latches in the bag with them in order to use them for different applications or thicknesses of material.
Shoot, Shawn...that bar epoxy looks super sharp in the picture. I wouldn't mind using that stuff to finish my entire project if it wasn't for the fact that it would need to be poured. And yeah, I don't think you want to spray poly either, everything that I've seen says that lacquer is what you want to use if you intend on spraying. I had picked up some of the lacquer to see how it would look once it had a good thick protective coating. And even with the gloss material I just wasn't crazy about it. But, I haven't tried spraying it either. I just think that it would be just as much trouble in my situation to set up for spraying it in the townhouse to really make it worth my while this go around. So that's why I'm just gonna brush the poly as tedious as it may be. And I know that with 4-5 coats the poly looks good. At this point I'm pretty much just tired to testing samples...I'm just ready to get it done lol.
Honeslty, I think I've made up my mind and decided I'm going to paint my tank black. I know it's been done over and over, just like the blue. But IMO, nothing makes bright colors pop like a black backround does.
Shoot, Shawn...that bar epoxy looks super sharp in the picture. I wouldn't mind using that stuff to finish my entire project if it wasn't for the fact that it would need to be poured. And yeah, I don't think you want to spray poly either, everything that I've seen says that lacquer is what you want to use if you intend on spraying. I had picked up some of the lacquer to see how it would look once it had a good thick protective coating. And even with the gloss material I just wasn't crazy about it. But, I haven't tried spraying it either. I just think that it would be just as much trouble in my situation to set up for spraying it in the townhouse to really make it worth my while this go around. So that's why I'm just gonna brush the poly as tedious as it may be. And I know that with 4-5 coats the poly looks good. At this point I'm pretty much just tired to testing samples...I'm just ready to get it done lol.
Honeslty, I think I've made up my mind and decided I'm going to paint my tank black. I know it's been done over and over, just like the blue. But IMO, nothing makes bright colors pop like a black backround does.
acrylic51
Active Member
Very true on the background....Just as Corey had mentioned about the black and blue sorta mundane......I was just toying with the idea, because I liked how the background actually faded in shades of blue and gave a decent perception of depth and the tank possibly looking as it was actually deeper.
I know what you mean about the heat generated from the epoxy....Once it's spread out not bad at all!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Posiden http:///forum/thread/376802/415-gallon-plywood-tank-build/400#post_3315042
I'm interested to see the area your having issues with on the lock. Maybe you can cut a slot for the locks bar to go into. Something like a biscuit slot. Only half of one. Maybe you just need to relieve the section with a dado router bit, if the lock barrel isn't long enough that is. I'm not a big fan of the long locking setups. Only because of rust issues. Even if they come in SS. The grade of SS could be very low. Having said that, I can't say that I have much experience with locks. I haven't put any on anything I've built.
I myself wouldn't place a background in the epoxy. Only because I don't like any of the backgrounds out there. I also think it might create a bit of an eye sore if you were able to keep all the visible areas totally clean.
Edit;
On the heat of the epoxy and the background. I don't think it would be an issue. You'll be pouring it out into a thin layer and the heat generated will be much less then what you feel in the mixing cup/bucket. The exothermic properties aren't very powerful when spread out IMO.
I know what you mean about the heat generated from the epoxy....Once it's spread out not bad at all!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Posiden http:///forum/thread/376802/415-gallon-plywood-tank-build/400#post_3315042
I'm interested to see the area your having issues with on the lock. Maybe you can cut a slot for the locks bar to go into. Something like a biscuit slot. Only half of one. Maybe you just need to relieve the section with a dado router bit, if the lock barrel isn't long enough that is. I'm not a big fan of the long locking setups. Only because of rust issues. Even if they come in SS. The grade of SS could be very low. Having said that, I can't say that I have much experience with locks. I haven't put any on anything I've built.
I myself wouldn't place a background in the epoxy. Only because I don't like any of the backgrounds out there. I also think it might create a bit of an eye sore if you were able to keep all the visible areas totally clean.
Edit;
On the heat of the epoxy and the background. I don't think it would be an issue. You'll be pouring it out into a thin layer and the heat generated will be much less then what you feel in the mixing cup/bucket. The exothermic properties aren't very powerful when spread out IMO.
acrylic51
Active Member
Corey, Posiden , and Al&Burke....I'll have to take some pics of the stand frame and door relation issues....It's how the doors actually overlap on the skin of the stand....Kind of hard to explain, but where the lock would need to be mounted is actually the skin of the stand directly behind it.....I might be able to get away with mounting it at the bottom of the doors instead of midway up the door frame. I know the bar style lock would work, just that the say or the "reviews" were that they weren't reversible and would only work on 1 side not the other, can't remember precisely off the top of my head.......They don't have to lock, and they stay shut perfectly fine, just I have a 2yr old grand daughter that lives with me and little ones seem to get into everything....Somehow I've forgotten this!!!!! Plus it never fails when my wife has her holiday family get together someones messy fingers always seems to find there way into the stand or into the filter room. I have actually put a lock on the door to the filter room this time.....I'll have to post a pic of that as well.....Man will they be disappointed this Christmas!!!!!
As far as spraying I'm not sure as well!!!! I will probably go the hard route and do it by hand as well. Just wanting to try something out of the norm again!!!! Spraying would be easier because of all the detail in the trim work, but with lots of patience I should be fine.
As far as the background I probably will go back with black. I'm pretty sure I will do the bottom of the tank in white. Just means I'll have to get creative when I tint the epoxy and pour the tint coats....That should be interesting; but honestly might not be to hard due to I have those 45 degree jigs made up for when I pour the corners anyways.....Thanks for the pics Al&Burke!!!!! Tank looks cool.....I want to do a small 1 for the bedroom; well built on the 1 wall of our walk in closet, but the wife keeps saying no.....
What's 1 more tank gonna hurt.....
Corey any thoughts or definite on skimmer choice for your setup?
I will try to get some pics posted tomorrow of my lock dilemma......
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/376802/415-gallon-plywood-tank-build/400#post_3315065
Curious, myself. I've actually installed a lock just like the one you said wouldn't work in the same type of application shown in the picture of the other one that you mentioned might, and it was on a 3/4" door with a 3/4" face frame. On those locks...the latch on the back should be reverseable, if not then they make some that are, or alot of times with those types of locks they give you some different sized latches in the bag with them in order to use them for different applications or thicknesses of material.
Shoot, Shawn...that bar epoxy looks super sharp in the picture. I wouldn't mind using that stuff to finish my entire project if it wasn't for the fact that it would need to be poured. And yeah, I don't think you want to spray poly either, everything that I've seen says that lacquer is what you want to use if you intend on spraying. I had picked up some of the lacquer to see how it would look once it had a good thick protective coating. And even with the gloss material I just wasn't crazy about it. But, I haven't tried spraying it either. I just think that it would be just as much trouble in my situation to set up for spraying it in the townhouse to really make it worth my while this go around. So that's why I'm just gonna brush the poly as tedious as it may be. And I know that with 4-5 coats the poly looks good. At this point I'm pretty much just tired to testing samples...I'm just ready to get it done lol.
Honestly, I think I've made up my mind and decided I'm going to paint my tank black. I know it's been done over and over, just like the blue. But IMO, nothing makes bright colors pop like a black background does.
As far as spraying I'm not sure as well!!!! I will probably go the hard route and do it by hand as well. Just wanting to try something out of the norm again!!!! Spraying would be easier because of all the detail in the trim work, but with lots of patience I should be fine.
As far as the background I probably will go back with black. I'm pretty sure I will do the bottom of the tank in white. Just means I'll have to get creative when I tint the epoxy and pour the tint coats....That should be interesting; but honestly might not be to hard due to I have those 45 degree jigs made up for when I pour the corners anyways.....Thanks for the pics Al&Burke!!!!! Tank looks cool.....I want to do a small 1 for the bedroom; well built on the 1 wall of our walk in closet, but the wife keeps saying no.....
Corey any thoughts or definite on skimmer choice for your setup?
I will try to get some pics posted tomorrow of my lock dilemma......
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/376802/415-gallon-plywood-tank-build/400#post_3315065
Curious, myself. I've actually installed a lock just like the one you said wouldn't work in the same type of application shown in the picture of the other one that you mentioned might, and it was on a 3/4" door with a 3/4" face frame. On those locks...the latch on the back should be reverseable, if not then they make some that are, or alot of times with those types of locks they give you some different sized latches in the bag with them in order to use them for different applications or thicknesses of material.
Shoot, Shawn...that bar epoxy looks super sharp in the picture. I wouldn't mind using that stuff to finish my entire project if it wasn't for the fact that it would need to be poured. And yeah, I don't think you want to spray poly either, everything that I've seen says that lacquer is what you want to use if you intend on spraying. I had picked up some of the lacquer to see how it would look once it had a good thick protective coating. And even with the gloss material I just wasn't crazy about it. But, I haven't tried spraying it either. I just think that it would be just as much trouble in my situation to set up for spraying it in the townhouse to really make it worth my while this go around. So that's why I'm just gonna brush the poly as tedious as it may be. And I know that with 4-5 coats the poly looks good. At this point I'm pretty much just tired to testing samples...I'm just ready to get it done lol.
Honestly, I think I've made up my mind and decided I'm going to paint my tank black. I know it's been done over and over, just like the blue. But IMO, nothing makes bright colors pop like a black background does.
acrylic51
Active Member
Corey I had thought about using epoxy for the clear coat on the stand such as the bar top, but that would be such a pain in the a$$ to flip and rotate to get it to cover......You'll have to play with some epoxy some time....It's not bad on a open area, but getting good coverage in all the little detail areas would be a nightmare!!!!