415 Gallon Plywood Tank Build

2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/376802/415-gallon-plywood-tank-build/920#post_3400367
Sorry Corey, walked away for a bit.....Yes you are correct the lowest point would be 2 3/4" from the top of the panel. Felt if I go to much higher towards the top of the panel, IMO really compromising the integrity of the structure of that end panel. With the wave boxes I still have to account for the water level wave as well????

Another option could possibly be to use an internal skimmer box to raise the water level just a hair??? My only concern was keeping the tank uncluttered. Your thoughts????
Yep I like the idea of the internal box kind of like a coast to coast, or however you had to build it and still incorportate the wave boxes. And then that way you could either drill and install elbows and do like a bean animal set up or even still cut a slot and have a second external box for the plumbing. But at least this way you can set the level higher and have more structural rigidity. Only thing with the bean animal set up is you'd need to modify the euro brace to have access inside the internal box.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
I'm following you Corey!!! Modifying the euro bracing wouldn't be an issue. 1 thing I thought is running a small internal box as you mentioned, with cutting the slot higher to bump the water level up. I'm still planning for external box, but rather have water force through bulkheads why couldn't I on the back panel still cut the overflow slot to let it drain to the external box??? I think it would be quietier than with the bulkheads ??? The internal box would add structurally to the side panel as well since it's tied into the euro bracing.
Your thoughts?
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/376802/415-gallon-plywood-tank-build/920#post_3400558
I'm following you Corey!!! Modifying the euro bracing wouldn't be an issue. 1 thing I thought is running a small internal box as you mentioned, with cutting the slot higher to bump the water level up. I'm still planning for external box, but rather have water force through bulkheads why couldn't I on the back panel still cut the overflow slot to let it drain to the external box??? I think it would be quietier than with the bulkheads ??? The internal box would add structurally to the side panel as well since it's tied into the euro bracing.
Your thoughts?
No reason why you couldn't do either IMO. And the reason for suggesting a bean animal style set up would be for a silent overflow if you went with bulkheads. I really think you could do either or. And besides, you're tank is in a fish room behind a wall and covered by a canopy. I'm wondering how much of an issue noise would really be no matter which way you go?
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/376802/415-gallon-plywood-tank-build/920#post_3400634
No reason why you couldn't do either IMO. And the reason for suggesting a bean animal style set up would be for a silent overflow if you went with bulkheads. I really think you could do either or. And besides, you're tank is in a fish room behind a wall and covered by a canopy. I'm wondering how much of an issue noise would really be no matter which way you go?
I was out in the garage finishing the last panel with the edge prepping.....Damn my hands hurt.....
I've been working the edges from 220 wet/dry, 400 wet/dry, 600 wet/dry, and then went to 1200 wet/dry.....I still have to hit the 1 end panel with the 1200....Totally forgot about that panel.....Anyways.....I was out in the garage, and was super amazed how strong a 2" strip about 18" long of 1" is......I bent it over the edge of my sisters island I'm building for her in between panels, and couldn't even get it to flex!!!!! Again water pressure is a lot greater than any force I could apply to it though......
I had ordered my glue from SD Plastics, I think that's where you got yours from Corey??? I ordered it Monday morning my times 6:00 am and didn't ship out till Tuesday evening....Rather disappointed it took them almost 2 days to ship a can of solvent and 2 bottles.....I normally get it from my buddies, but all the had was a gallon and surely don't need a whole gallon sitting around.....
I did get the holes drilled in the end panel (black panel) where the overflow would be......Just as with any build I try to keep very few squared edges; besides the corners of the tank. So basically what I did was marked the start and stop points of the overflow slots, and took a holesaw bit and drilled a hole on each end.....This way when the overflow slot is routed the ends over the overflow slot won't be squared, they will be rounded.....My thinking is less stress on the material than squared cutouts/corners, and also think it might help quite or make the flow a little easier with a rounded edge vs a square edge!!!!!

Tomorrow hopefully won't be another 14 hr day at work, so hopefully I can get the top of the stand cleared off and start mocking my pieces up into place and actually take some good pics to show you guys some of the process made, and the edge prep down; which will hopefully yield me excellent joints.......
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Sounds like you're well on your way to making that deadline.
I think I ordered my supplies from eplastics.com / ridout.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Still have to finish my other jig so I can set both ends in place at the same time. Really hate to do it, but you just made me think about making a jig just bigger for the front and back panels as well!!!!:flamed:
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
What issues would really be going on in the overflow box and wave boxes????:hi: The wave boxes only houses the the Tunze pumps basically. I think the black would give a cleaner; sleeker look, but also see your point as far as being able to peak in.
Did make a little progress. Had marked out the side panel where the overflow is going and got it all routed out. Was a little nervous cutting on the panel at first. A lot of money involved to screw up the panel with the router. So easy to go astray at times!!!! Took smaller cuts(depth) during the cutting. Trying to no overheat the panel and get a clean cut. Turned out very well. I want to get the panel up on the stand and double check that the cut outs are perfectly level with each other. I did take pics and hopefully should get the pics up tonight!!!
 
sweatervest13

sweatervest13

Active Member
Quote:
What issues would really be going on in the overflow box and wave boxes????
The wave boxes only houses the the Tunze pumps basically. I think the black would give a cleaner; sleeker look, but also see your point as far as being able to peak in.

I think that the wave boxes would be fine (really don't have that much knowledge on wave boxes, lol) but I have heard about things getting into the overflow and clogging things up. I guess it's for what you can't think of that makes me think doing clear would be good. But I think black would look REAL GOOD!!! Now that I think about it most reef ready tanks have opaque overflows, I know mine you can only see from the back of the tank.
Can't wait to see pics. I think that it is awesome that you and Corey know how to do all the acrylic work. I can imagine that it would be a little nerve racking to cut the first panel. Keep up the good work!!!!
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
After I mad the initial cut on both slots the pressure eased a bit. Not sure if I should round the cuts over or leave the "squared"???
 
al&burke

al&burke

Active Member
Since the slots won't have a lot of water pressure rounding the edges won't help much, maybe reduce the noise.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
That's what my logic was.... To possibly reduce noise, and to take sharp edges off so when cleaning you can't cut/catch yourself!!!!
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Well since the top brace will be clear I'd opt to do the o/f in black to blend with the panel. So you would still be able to check and see what's going on in there if need be. I think I'd round off the slot to give the water flow a smooth transition in hopes of quieter operation.
What type of bit did you end up using?
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Leaning towards rounding the cut out over. Don't want it to be a major roundover, just to knock the edge off basically. For the straight cut for the overflow slot Corey I used to different bits. I bought just the standard double fluted straight bit 1/2" shaft..... I did the initial cutting with that taking small passes not wanting to overheat the bit or material.... Then did the final finish cut with a flush trim bit with straight edge guide.
If my computer will cooperate I will post some pics today. On the road as we speak!!!!
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Alright....final got the computer to cooperate here for a bit....Here's a couple pics nothing spectacular as of yet....
This shot shows the jig I threw together to keep the panels square and at the same time gives me an area to clamp the panel to to support it as well as I pull the pins during gluing. Pic also gives some reference to the thickness of the panels.....
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member

This pic again shows the thickness of the panels being used for the tank, and also show's how I took shallow cuts out of the panel instead of trying to take all 1" at a shot. Didn't want to overheat the panel or the bit...Overheat the bit, and it's toast.

Another shot showing how I took layers out of the panel.......

The finished results.....both slots are level with each other, but want to actually get the panel up on the stand and double check they are level before glue up would happen....Easier to make adjustments like that now then when everything is glued together........
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Looks good. Is that a remote control router you got there? I gotta get me one of those!

If you do an internal o/f box would it be critical if the slots weren't totally level?
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
No!!!!!! I wish it was remote control router......I can't remember the brand name, but they have something on that line at WoodCraft.....I wanna say it's Festool???? I know it was more than I'd every spend on a router setup.....I'm still having a hard time bringing myself to buy the Freud router table fence.....That's only $100.00.....What I think your seeing in the pic is the router flipped upside down and the straight edge guide on the router....I used the straight edge guide to keep myself on track when making the intial cuts with the straight cut bit. Didn't want it to go astray!!!!!! With the guide in place it will only let you wander but so far.
Honestly I think it would matter a bit.....If you think about a tank being setup and not level you'll notice it in the overflow box, and the tank doesn't drain;flow evenly......I did get it on the stand and I might tweak it just a hair.....Actually shouldn't worry about it, because it's all but dead even between the level lines, but I'm anal about those things......Even if the inner O/F box is perfectly level it would drain faster through 1 slit in the back wall faster than the other.....Probably not a big deal!!!!!
Did get a bit more done today.....Actually got the jig made for the eurobracing......Had to get a sheet of MDF and layed everything out in pencil, and got my radius worked out.....Had to get my oldest daughter who's super in math to help me lay the radius out for the eurobracing, but she's a trooper and got it done for ole dad!!!!!! Have to get a pic of the jig posted. Hopefully I'll drag myself out of bed early tomorrow, and get everything setup to route the eurobracing top and have extra material to start getting more practice gluing........
 
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