415 Gallon Plywood Tank Build

2quills

Well-Known Member
Yeah I like that idea better Shawn. Especially after feeding times. And then you could always reverse it so that it isn't a constant one way circular motion all the time.
 

al&burke

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///t/376802/415-gallon-plywood-tank-build/1120#post_3414918
Working on a finally plan......I'm trying to take what you and I had talked about as far as movement/flow within the tank, and also from what Paul had stated in his answer over on his forum about what I was after. I'm not sure it will give me 100% as how I have it depicted, but it should move water quite nicely from 1 side of the tank to the other. The big key IMO is to keep the detrious suspended in the water column so it has a chance to be picked up by the overflow.....
As far as the VFD, it doesn't appear to be a super hard swap of the motors and wetends. I think the real challenge is tuning the thing, and not blowing it apart, but the thread over on RC has taken some of the leg work out of starting points though on the setup.
The stiffener will be on the top, Haven't sat down yet and figured the radius or anything yet for the cutout on the euro bracing for the overflow.....The euro bracing won't be super wide. I want to leave as much working room inside the overflow as possible. Hopefully by the end of the night I'll at least have the template cut, so I can show you a test fit before it's glued into place.
Do you really think that eurobracing is necessary on the overflow?
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Probably not Al, but the sheer weight of the overflow seems quite a bit in my mind.....Were not talking a typical 1/4" material for an overflow box. 1" material pulling against the weight of the side panel, and add water weight. Just makes me think hard about it.....
 

desertdawg

Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///t/376802/415-gallon-plywood-tank-build/1100#post_3414310

These are OM revs and is a thought of using on the far left top euro bracing to fire water back towards the overflow on the other end of the tank. The reason I like these as an option is that at each firing, they drop down into the water and fire, and then pop up, and the next time they drop down rotating a bit and firing; therefore you always have a changing angle the water is being pushed back across the tank water surface. I will have plenty of pump as well to plumb dual returns from the return pump on this side of the tank as well as on the other side of the tank.....
My question isn't related to your design, just the operation of these OM revs, when it pops up and stops the flow is there another outlet open at the time to prevent 100 percent back pressure on the pump?
I like your thinking of trying to keep all of the water moving to prevent issues in the DT, but be careful you don't overdue it, Remember KISS...
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Desertdawg http:///t/376802/415-gallon-plywood-tank-build/1140#post_3415005
My question isn't related to your design, just the operation of these OM revs, when it pops up and stops the flow is there another outlet open at the time to prevent 100 percent back pressure on the pump?
I like your thinking of trying to keep all of the water moving to prevent issues in the DT, but be careful you don't overdue it, Remember KISS...

This is the actual unit....The revs technically doesn't shut the flow off. Inside there is a "drum" that dictates which port the actually reaches.....If the open section of the drum isn't aligned with a port, then there is no water flowing to that port or "Rev". When the opening aligns with the port, the water pressure is applied to the "Rev" causing it to drop down in the water.

Desertdawg this is just an idea of what a drum could look like with 2 ports....Again depending which version drum you choose for the setup the portings in the drum will differ.
Not really following you when you caution about over doing it????
This is an area where I feel most of us seriously overlook the planning of our setups.....How many people logically attempt to think out the flow inside the DT? Most just run the return line from the tank and drop it into the tank.....Then they are left with the issue of adding PH's and other devices inside the DT. My goal or plan is to optimize the use of the return water from the sump....Why just dump it back into the DT???? Why not attempt to use it wisely and add the CL setups to keep the detritus from settling; which is a common issue that plagues a lot of us at some point......
Again the purpose of the CL is to in my best words replicate what actually takes place in nature......
Your thoughts!!!!!!!
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Nothing new and exciting to report as we speak......Been working 14hr days trying to play catch up, and if I'm not to beat I look at the tank......No seriously I've been trying to put an hour at least in a day on the tank after work to get the edges ready before the tank gets moved to the stand.....I picked up some micro mesh sandpaper this past weekend and all the exposed edges are getting sanded down.....It's easier to do it while it's not on the stand, since when it's finally in place it will be sitting on foam, so it'll be a bit hard to move the tank around without tearing up the foam underneath.....
The sanding process starts off with 1500 wet/dry grit paper and you work your way up to 12,000 grit paper....The micro mesh is pretty sweet. A bit pricey for sandpaper, but the results are rather sweet. I've worked my way to 1800 grit, and already is starting to look as if it's wet or the appearance that you can see completely through the sheet. I'm attempting to make the edges as clear as if you were looking through the viewing panel.....
The way it looks now the tank move will get pushed to Sunday......Most of my buddies actually work the dock for UPS and they have a mandatory extra day Saturday, so they won't be available, and they might not be in the mood to make the move, so shooting for Sunday!!!!!
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Where did you get your sandpaper from. I never have been able to find anything that high locally. I think the most I've found was up to 6000 grit at the auto parts store.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Hey buddy......The micro mesh I actually did get at WoodCraft.....They actually thought I was getting into another hobby of turning my own pens......
They use it a lot for that purpose......They have small and large kits with assorted grits......The large kit is around $55.00.....I actually purchased the round 2" discs for my drill.....Velcro adhesion......They work really well, just keep them wet.....The thing that sucks is I searched online, and haven't been able to find bulk in assorted grits.....Everywhere I've seen it for sale only offer the assorted packs......For the 2" assorted disc packs I bought I think they were roughly $15.00. They are suppose to be what you want to use between your finishes in your clear coat.....12,000 grit is insane!!!!!
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Hey Al!!!!! I just read the pack since I wiped the local WoodCraft out the other day......It doesn't say you couldn't use it on aluminum surfaces, but it doesn't say you can't.....Honestly Mother's Aluminum polish is incredible.......The 12,000 grit, by directions does leave scratch marks, but undetectable by the human eye......So if it could be used on acrylic, I honestly don't see why it would harm aluminum......They also recommend it for fine wood working between clear coats as well.
Did you get a chance to check out TOTM on the other forum???? They guys used the faux sand bed like I had talked about a long time ago....Tank looks amazing....
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Corey it does say that micro mesh is available in quite a few different sheet sizes....I'll have to dig a bit more and see what I can find.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Did you guys also catch the latest from AI.....They are lowering the prices on the Sol to $399, and the new models will be wireless, and feature "supposedly" optics to refract light correctly into the water......The new models will also use the X-ML over the X-PG's....
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by meowzer http:///t/376802/415-gallon-plywood-tank-build/1140#post_3416585
GRRRRR
Still not crazy about the idea of only having the two colors. I wonder how good the spread is going to be on those fixtures? Seems they will be a little more efficient than the old ones but you'd still want to have about 6 units on your size tank Meow. I wish they would come out with some more upgradeable/changeable options on those things.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///t/376802/415-gallon-plywood-tank-build/1140#post_3416583
Wow, I hadn't seen that yet. That's going to change the game a little bit.
The big debate and war is already started as to which is better and why.....The Eco utilizes greens and yellows if I recall correctly in there systems......AI is 3 channels, which means only 3 colors and Eco is 6 channel, but currently only utilizing 5 of the 6 channels.....I think the spread is about equal.....
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///t/376802/415-gallon-plywood-tank-build/1140#post_3416590
The big debate and war is already started as to which is better and why.....The Eco utilizes greens and yellows if I recall correctly in there systems......AI is 3 channels, which means only 3 colors and Eco is 6 channel, but currently only utilizing 5 of the 6 channels.....I think the spread is about equal.....
I didn't see anything about 3 channel on the new unit. AI website just said they use xml white and xre blue??? Maybe I missed it. I like the more channel idea.
 
Top