Flower's Sump/Fuge Build

2quills

Well-Known Member
Well I'm not searchin for anymore trash cans till I hear Shawns idea. lol
 
Did you guys know that walmart. com has 483 different trash cans?
 

flower

Well-Known Member

 
Good Morning everyone!
 
Shawn: The ATO is a JBS it has two float switches. One goes in my DT and when the level drops it goes on. Another switch goes in the ATO container of RO water. If that level gets too low the pump will not go on so it protects the pump from burning out. The switches are protected by a 1 inch square piece of plastic to prevent critters from getting on it and causing a malfunction.
 
I get on line and there it is, the perfect can…yes, 7.25 will fit in a space that is 7.5..Not much wiggle room but wiggle room nonetheless. Meowzer, I am on the hunt for one so help me if you can.
 
Thanks for the tip on Plexiglas . So I know that idea didn’t work. I still have to figure out the water thing.
 
I have those jugs…allot of those jugs, 5gs and 3gs and LOL…I have the dispenser too. They take up allot of room and they are an eye sore. Remember my tank is right in my very small living room.
 
How about this. I have the hose all set on my ATO unit with the pump, just like before… but I put a hole near the top of my RO container hose. When the pump goes on some water flows through the hole and back to the RO container but allot more water flows down to the sump. When the power is cut off to the ATO pump the siphon breaks at the hole and stops the hose from dumping more water..What do you think?
 
 
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Flower we are going to want to move the sensor for the ATO that you put in the DT to the sump. We want the ATO to detect the water level drop in the sump not the DT. Anyone correct me if I'm wrong???? I am sure you have it this way due to the fact of not having a sump. Honestly I don't understand why you need a siphon break hole in your ATO line. The water should not back feed, or at least it doesn't with my Tunze??? Again someone ???
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Looking real quick at the illustrations of the setup on another reputable sight there is no reason to have a siphon break hose if setup properly. Setup properly meaning the hose that would be leading to the sump would be above the "normal" or "max" water level in the sump. I can fully understand if the supply line from your water vat is submerged in the tank or sump, but it shouldn't be. That is why I am suggesting against a siphon break hole in the water line on the output of the pump from your water vat.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/380517/flower-s-sump-fuge-build/100#post_3312525
Looking real quick at the illustrations of the setup on another reputable sight there is no reason to have a siphon break hose if setup properly. Setup properly meaning the hose that would be leading to the sump would be above the "normal" or "max" water level in the sump. I can fully understand if the supply line from your water vat is submerged in the tank or sump, but it shouldn't be. That is why I am suggesting against a siphon break hole in the water line on the output of the pump from your water vat.

 
It just seems that if the hose is up from the pump and then over and dropped down to the sump...even f the end of the hose is not submerged, won't the momentum keep it going?
 
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flower http:///forum/thread/380517/flower-s-sump-fuge-build/100#post_3312527
 

 
It just seems that if the hose is up from the pump and then over and dropped down to the sump...even f the end of the hose is not submerged, won't the momentum keep it going?
 
Good Morning Flower!!!!! When the sensor inside the sump reaches it's "max" position it shuts power off to the pump, causing the pump to shut down. With no power applied to the pump, the water should cease; since you said it is going up and over the top of the sump. The water should flow back down into the water vat. I am under the assumption the water storage vat is level with it slightly below the sump; not above. Water won't flow uphill without some sort of assistance. That is why I suggested the line leading to the sump be just above the water level you plan to run.
 
On a quick side note. Just called my buddy, and I should have all the material in my hands Thursday evening....they are going to drop it by my house since I don't get off work till 7:30.

 
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
+1
If the ato pump is at the bottom of the reservoir and the hose runs up and over the top of it then there should be no syphon created as long as the end of the hose is not submerged in the sump.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
My thinking exactly on the ATO!!!! Up and over the siphon would be broke as long as the discharge hose isn't submerged which is an easy fix....
As 2Quills (Corey) pointed out there is a difference in material you will get from HomeDepot vs. Acrylic shop. I was on the phone with my buddies an will have material dropped at my house Thursday. I've choose to do the build with 3/8" material. Stronger material, less bracing required than if using 1/4" acrylic. The sump and fuge both will sport a nice, clean slim eurobracing to keep both solid and no flexing. Should be enough material for a ATO container. I am assuming the container will either be level or below sump level? Worse case a simple one way valve would fix any back siphon!!!!!
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Corey!!! Did you have a chance to get more info on that compact Eheim pump you mentioned? I looked at it briefly and had me thinking it was more a skimmer replacement pump?
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
A little bit yes I believe they can be either. The compact 2000 is the one I was looking into. Not a ton of reviews out there yet but the ones I did find had all good things to say. People seem to like the built in flow adjustment. Quiet and well constructed.
 

flower

Well-Known Member

 
I looked up the skimmer you mentioned in your PM...is this it? It says X160 made by coralvue


 
 
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
$80 range. Have to double check to be 100% but pretty sure were looking at 30watts wide open.
 
 
Edit: Yeah, 32 watts. Found a handfull of reviews and even some on the other forums. The only negative thing anyone had to say was how the suction cup feet sometimes stick to the bottom of the sump when they pull the pump out. Performance wise though they sound great.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/380517/flower-s-sump-fuge-build/100#post_3312595
$80 range. Have to double check to be 100% but pretty sure were looking at 30watts wide open.
 
 
Edit: Yeah, 32 watts. Found a handfull of reviews and even some on the other forums. The only negative thing anyone had to say was how the suction cup feet sometimes stick to the bottom of the sump when they pull the pump out. Performance wise though they sound great.

 
Wait...suction cups that work is a complaint? I always get the opposite effect from suction cups.
 
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by meowzer http:///forum/thread/380517/flower-s-sump-fuge-build/100#post_3312668
Me too.....lately if it has suction cups...that steers me away from the item

 
Oh I can so relate to that. I got this in tank refugium..great big suction cups. It fell in the tank 2Xs, so I rigged some Hose guides on it and hung it that way. I changed all my almost new Mag jet power heads to Koralia because of those things not holding. That was back when Koralias were a new item, I paid full price and worth every dime.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/380517/flower-s-sump-fuge-build/80#post_3312475
Check this out, found it on walmarts website.
 
14.5" L x 7.25"W x 24.25"T
 
Aprox 10G capacity
 
$15
 


 
I was going to go with this..I thought I was all set..But it is not plastic, but a plastic kind of cardboard.

 
I found this on a review:
I'm not sure this is worth the price, but so far they are pretty functional (I bought 4). I had a small space meant for recycling so I bought 4 of them to sit side by side. The material is a plastic version of corregated cardboard. You fold them together kind of like a bakery box. When they are first assembled they are kind of crooked, but once you put the lid on they square out fine. I can put a standard size kitchen trash bag in them and still put the lid over the sides to hold the bag in place. All the stickers to label the containers fit on any side even the slim ones EXCEPT the aluminum sticker, but I just cut it with scissors to abbreviate it. I'm happy with the product
 
 
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