Neptunes 125 Reef Diary.
- Thread starter king_neptune
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E
eric b 125
Guest
i sent you a p.m. homeslice. i think i found where you can order that top trim w/ brace.
king_neptune
Active Member
Originally Posted by Eric B 125
http:///forum/post/2952183
i sent you a p.m. homeslice. i think i found where you can order that top trim w/ brace.
would I be cutting off the current top and putting one of thiers on? or a simple brace and screws?
obviously the cheaper the better. as long as I dont sacrifice structural integrity.
plus they are a canadian company. i might be better off ordering localy in the us
http:///forum/post/2952183
i sent you a p.m. homeslice. i think i found where you can order that top trim w/ brace.
would I be cutting off the current top and putting one of thiers on? or a simple brace and screws?
obviously the cheaper the better. as long as I dont sacrifice structural integrity.
plus they are a canadian company. i might be better off ordering localy in the us
E
eric b 125
Guest
i think it's the entire top piece. you'd have to ask them. i got bored last night and had to search a while before finding ANY site that sold aquarium trim, and they are the only folks i could find. i wish i had an 18" tank i wasnt using, i'd send you the trim myself. too bad it's not around 12", i have 3 55's i'm not using. the thing about using plastic screws, and i know people have done it, is that personally, i'd be worried about them giving-way after having pressure on them for so long. either the screws, or the holes cut through the trim. i think i'm just overly cautious, though. i mean, for cryin out loud, even though i've read threads on inexperienced people successfully drilling their own tanks, for some reason i feel the need to wait for you to do yours before i can do mine. im an idiot. i'll see if i can find some other places that slang aquarium replacement parts in the interim.
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eric b 125
Guest
pm sent
wattsupdoc
Active Member
The fix is extremely easy. Like stated, sili in a piece of nice thick glass. or two 6-8in strips across it. Bam. your done no problems. I would recommend two 8 in strips, 3/8 in thick.
king_neptune
Active Member
Originally Posted by wattsupdoc
http:///forum/post/2953078
The fix is extremely easy. Like stated, sili in a piece of nice thick glass. or two 6-8in strips across it. Bam. your done no problems. I would recommend two 8 in strips, 3/8 in thick.
ya i found a site with reasonable pricing. I'm getting acrylic pieces. ill place them in thirds across the top. and fasten them to the existing plastic brace. I wont silicon..that will likely come undone anyways...ill use plastic skrws to put them in place and glue/weld...i believe it was called weld #4 or something like that. evidently bonds super strong. Ill call them in the morning and talk to someone who knows specifically what I need to do...should have it in the mail sometime next week. i am going to drain the tank tomorrow...it hasn't bowed yet. and its been a week. but Im not taking any chances. I can find no indication of it being tempered...absolutely no numbers of any kind on the tank or frame.
If it does break....oh well. I found a 300gallon pre drilled acrylic with stand and cover for $800. And since tax refund is just around the corner....lol i doubt it..but hey, it is a nice tank^^ I mean all I lost out really was a wii that was collecting dust.
http:///forum/post/2953078
The fix is extremely easy. Like stated, sili in a piece of nice thick glass. or two 6-8in strips across it. Bam. your done no problems. I would recommend two 8 in strips, 3/8 in thick.
ya i found a site with reasonable pricing. I'm getting acrylic pieces. ill place them in thirds across the top. and fasten them to the existing plastic brace. I wont silicon..that will likely come undone anyways...ill use plastic skrws to put them in place and glue/weld...i believe it was called weld #4 or something like that. evidently bonds super strong. Ill call them in the morning and talk to someone who knows specifically what I need to do...should have it in the mail sometime next week. i am going to drain the tank tomorrow...it hasn't bowed yet. and its been a week. but Im not taking any chances. I can find no indication of it being tempered...absolutely no numbers of any kind on the tank or frame.
If it does break....oh well. I found a 300gallon pre drilled acrylic with stand and cover for $800. And since tax refund is just around the corner....lol i doubt it..but hey, it is a nice tank^^ I mean all I lost out really was a wii that was collecting dust.
king_neptune
Active Member
ok, ordered a mag 18 pump. I have a question about the return lines I am going to plumb....
The Mag 18 has a 3/4" inlet/outlet.
I already planned on 1" return lines and bought all the pieces.
I can take them back and swapp for 3/4" lines instead...or should I just buy an adapter and do 3/4" to 1"?
I'm pretty sure I should take the gear back and plumb strictly 3/4". But just the same I'd like to pose the question.
Also....how many outlets should I make? one for each side of the tank? I was planning on having a flex tube split into a "Y" at each outlet.
The Mag 18 has a 3/4" inlet/outlet.
I already planned on 1" return lines and bought all the pieces.
I can take them back and swapp for 3/4" lines instead...or should I just buy an adapter and do 3/4" to 1"?
I'm pretty sure I should take the gear back and plumb strictly 3/4". But just the same I'd like to pose the question.
Also....how many outlets should I make? one for each side of the tank? I was planning on having a flex tube split into a "Y" at each outlet.
wattsupdoc
Active Member
Get some loclines for the returns. I would run them 1/3 of the way in each. Reduce to 3/4 right at the pump, run 1in all the way.
king_neptune
Active Member
Originally Posted by wattsupdoc
http:///forum/post/2953667
Get some loclines for the returns. I would run them 1/3 of the way in each. Reduce to 3/4 right at the pump, run 1in all the way.
So keep the pumps natural 3/4" all the way to the top.
At the top have loc-lines.
i didnt follow the part about "run them 1/3 of the way each" please elaborate.
http:///forum/post/2953667
Get some loclines for the returns. I would run them 1/3 of the way in each. Reduce to 3/4 right at the pump, run 1in all the way.
So keep the pumps natural 3/4" all the way to the top.
At the top have loc-lines.
i didnt follow the part about "run them 1/3 of the way each" please elaborate.
king_neptune
Active Member
Mag 18 is on the way. $129 USD, $8 shipping. pretty good deal i think.should be here next week.
posiden
Active Member
I think this is what Wattsupdoc was saying,
Adapt the pump from 3/4 to 1". you will get the most return that way. If you need to reduce it for your loc lines do that at as close to the end as you can and still enjoy the look.
I know it might sound strange to do this but you will gain a ton in the return flow this way.
Also this is just some thing I was fooling around with. I know you have already bought your silicone but a little FYI. These are MSDS sheets and the important info is in the second box.
Aquarium Silicone by DAP,
http://www.dap.com/docs/msds/00000688_english.pdf
The 100% Silicone by DAP. The one I posted a pic of.
http://www.dap.com/docs/msds/00000684_english.pdf
Adapt the pump from 3/4 to 1". you will get the most return that way. If you need to reduce it for your loc lines do that at as close to the end as you can and still enjoy the look.
I know it might sound strange to do this but you will gain a ton in the return flow this way.
Also this is just some thing I was fooling around with. I know you have already bought your silicone but a little FYI. These are MSDS sheets and the important info is in the second box.
Aquarium Silicone by DAP,
http://www.dap.com/docs/msds/00000688_english.pdf
The 100% Silicone by DAP. The one I posted a pic of.
http://www.dap.com/docs/msds/00000684_english.pdf
wattsupdoc
Active Member
Increase the pipe size immediately at the pump to 1 in conduit. Run that entirely to the loclines. You could even increase it to 1 1/4 if you liked. Try not to use any hard bend, back to back 45's as opposed to 90's wherever possible. Install a ball valve with unions on it right after the pump. This will allow you to restrict the flow if needed.
For the drain, run that as large as possible 2in isn't unheard of. Thermal bends are preferred, back to back 45's are acceptable, hard 90's should be avoided. Additionally, do not run any horizontal run level. All should run at least slightly down hill.
For the drain, run that as large as possible 2in isn't unheard of. Thermal bends are preferred, back to back 45's are acceptable, hard 90's should be avoided. Additionally, do not run any horizontal run level. All should run at least slightly down hill.
king_neptune
Active Member
OK now I got a clear picture in my head. Yup your pretty much dead spot on, with what I had in my mind. I bought several 45' in each pipe size, anticipating I would avoid hard 90's as much as possible.I didn't want to spend $70 for the soft flex lines, but i will design the hard lines so that I will have plenty room to cut and replace with flex lines in the future.
The only thing I was unsure of was good/bad on doing 1" return vs 3/4" return. The drains are dual 1"5 lines. It makes sense to keep larger water flow in the 1", but I wasn't sure if this was bad for the pump or not( it has to push more weight). And yes, I was planning on doing a ball valve about 8-12 inches above the return pump, so I could restrict the flow as needed. To help control the drainage into the sump.
The only thing I was unsure of was good/bad on doing 1" return vs 3/4" return. The drains are dual 1"5 lines. It makes sense to keep larger water flow in the 1", but I wasn't sure if this was bad for the pump or not( it has to push more weight). And yes, I was planning on doing a ball valve about 8-12 inches above the return pump, so I could restrict the flow as needed. To help control the drainage into the sump.
king_neptune
Active Member
I went into the garage today. i havent checked on the tank in a couple days. It bowed almost 1/2" in the last 48 hours. Im now satisfied that I need braces. Im draining the tank now. And am going to drill it tonight. cross yer fingers. This is the scary part!
I'm also going to order the acrylic tonight. I'm getting 2 pieces. 19" in length.
And 6" in width. Ill put them in 1/3 intervals. I plan to order plastic skrews and also a bonding material to glue as well.
If anyone thinks this is a bad idea...or I should do something different now is the time to say something.
Also please give me the name of a recommend acrylic bonding glue. Silicon is too weak. I don't want to silicon it. I want to weld it with an epoxy/resin.
I'm also going to order the acrylic tonight. I'm getting 2 pieces. 19" in length.
And 6" in width. Ill put them in 1/3 intervals. I plan to order plastic skrews and also a bonding material to glue as well.
If anyone thinks this is a bad idea...or I should do something different now is the time to say something.
Also please give me the name of a recommend acrylic bonding glue. Silicon is too weak. I don't want to silicon it. I want to weld it with an epoxy/resin.
veni vidi vici
Active Member
Originally Posted by King_Neptune
http:///forum/post/2955654
I went into the garage today. i havent checked on the tank in a couple days. It bowed almost 1/2" in the last 48 hours. Im now satisfied that I need braces. Im draining the tank now. And am going to drill it tonight. cross yer fingers. This is the scary part!
I hear a Ball Pein Hammer is faster than drilling lol
http:///forum/post/2955654
I went into the garage today. i havent checked on the tank in a couple days. It bowed almost 1/2" in the last 48 hours. Im now satisfied that I need braces. Im draining the tank now. And am going to drill it tonight. cross yer fingers. This is the scary part!
I hear a Ball Pein Hammer is faster than drilling lol
wattsupdoc
Active Member
Weld on#16 is what your wanting IF the existing brace is acrylic. Myself, I wouldn't drill into the brace any. I would heat and bend a piece to fold over the brace. Glue it into place. Try to find out what the brace is made of. I don't think that a good epoxy would be a bad choice if its some other type of plastic, but if it is acrylic, then do definitely want the weld on #16.
king_neptune
Active Member
one hole down!!!
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eric b 125
Guest
YES! LET THE DRILLING BEGIN! let me know what drilling glass is all about. God speed.