Novahobbies official 110g rebuild thread

novahobbies

Well-Known Member
Oh yeah, I'm currently working to keep a small problem from turning into a BIG one. Since I've turned off the biopellets, I've seen a good color-up on a lot of corals, BUT I'm getting HA cropping up in places...and the Bryopsis is trying to come back as well. I'm having the WORST luck tracking down a large clump of chaeto right now. Sip donated a small batch, and my LFS took more than a week to get some in. When I brought the stuff from the LFS home, I discovered that they didn't sell me Chaeto....they sold me GREEN SHREDDED WHEAT. Seriously, there isn't a single strand of chaeto in that batch that's longer than 1/2 inch. I stuffed it in a media bag, but I don't know how well that's going to work. I need to find time to cut the plastic and get my DIY upflow scrubber built....or at least maybe find some Caulerpa. I'm a little cautious about the Caulerpa, though, even if it IS just in the sump.
The HA is a minor issue now, but I can see it turning into a headache really fast if I let it.
 

novahobbies

Well-Known Member
Bathroom's clean, the RODI sediment filter and carbon block have been swapped (apparently I need to buy an empty 10" cartridge for my catalytic cabon/chloramine filter...drat), and the new flush kit, pressure gauge, and dual inline TDS meter is installed. Not bad for a couple hours worth of work. Now it's just time to connect it to the new under-sink adapter (shudder!) and mount it to the inside of the bathroom cabinet. Wish me luck!
 

novahobbies

Well-Known Member
D'OH!
Best laid plans. Grrrr. Of all the things that I thought would stop me, I didn't foresee this. I just ASSumed the water lines under the sink were standard modern 3/8 inch threaded lines.
They're not. They're pressure-fit copper lines. Under each bathroom and the kitchen sink. So no joy. Of course, the unit I bought does have a garden hose connection, but that defeats the purpose of schlepping up the darn stairs!
Now, I DO have a faucet-to-hose adapter somewhere in this house. It's how I got water into the tank after all. But, please. ASK me where that tiny little adapter is. I dare ya.
 
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siptang

Guest
awesome!!!! post some pics of the corals and let me know how things are turning out.
 

novahobbies

Well-Known Member

Well, it's running! Not as nice as I'd like (I apparently need to make another BRS order) but it will do for now. My pressure after the sediment and carbon filters is holding steady at 60PSI, my TDS1 (pre-DI Resin) is reading 5, and my TDS2 (Final) is at 0. I have a small leak at the faucet, but hey...the sink catches that. I've made 2 gallons so far, but I don't know how much I need to run before I can actually use if for the tank. For now, I'm watering some plants.
 

novahobbies

Well-Known Member
My parameters are out of whack. I had a feeling...I've had some palys closed up for a couple days, and a chalice with a bite taken out of it that hasn't healed yet. Params aren't crazy, but they're a little off:
pH: 7.8
Phosphate: 0.25 on the API test (this worries me)
Nitrate: 0
Nitrite: 0
KH: Between 8 and 9
Ca: 400
I didn't bother with Mag tonight. If my API test kit is showing at least .25 phosphates, then we have a problem. High PO4 will also drive down Calcium, and the KH is lower than I'd like as well.
I noticed a coral "growth spurt" a few weeks ago that has slowed down significantly. Think I might need to up the doseage on my 2-part, and make sure I actually dose nightly. If anything, at least my Ca and KH readings are similarly low, so if I can bring the KH back to 10 I ought to see a 460-ish Ca reading. As for the phosphate....Siptang, can I borrow your Hanna checker to double check this reading? I'll also be busting into that new container of GFO this week!!
 
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siptang

Guest
Bring water by and I will test your p04 with my hanna tester. I only have 2 resins though (2 tests left) but that should be more then enough to check for before and after adding new GFO.
I like Hanna because it's one of the most accurate test kits out there.
your growth may have been stunted with the p04 rising. Calcification decreases dramatically after 0.15.
What do you need to buy on BRS? And to answer your email, yes. I will find one more fun dip for you. ;)
also, flush the water for about 30 mins to an hour when it has been sitting for a while. It prolongs the life of the membrane. I usually flush mine for about 15 mins every other week.
 

novahobbies

Well-Known Member
Too Late! :) GFO already got changed tonight! Got a wild hare and cleaned out the GFO reactor completely. Sent a lot of live mysis flying all over the place...seems there was a little colony hanging out under the reactor's pump.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Any recent pics of the tank? Glad you're getting your PO4 taken care of. I was looking into those Hanna checkers too... they seem to be worth it? I might have to pick one up later on.
 
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siptang

Guest
hannas are amazing. ;) money well spent.
live mysis in your sump??!? really??
 

novahobbies

Well-Known Member
Live mysis in my sump! Really! They're little things, not like the big freshwater PE buggers. And they move FAST!
Seth, yes I've heard a lot of good things about the Hanna PO4 checkers. It's on my birthday list. :)


Love this little thing. It was less than a 1 inch frag when I got it.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
wooow... you're having a lot of success with those LEDs and good husbandry tactics...
Can you take me through some of the routine maintenance that you do to your system to keep it looking so nice?
 

meowzer

Moderator
WOW....the tank looks great....what type of Anthias is that?
I bet they are amphipods....LOL....my sump and filters were full of them....speedy little critters too
 

novahobbies

Well-Known Member
Louis, there's a single Dispar Anthias and a single Bartlett's. When I started the tank I had 2 Bartlett's, but one wasted away. No aggression that I observed, but he just stopped eating and withered away. These other two seem to be very robust and healthy. And, no, they aren't amphipods (though I do have a ton of them). They're very clearly mysids. Cool little buggers, I think they came in on some Chaeto, so I doubt they'll last long.
Seth, I wish I could say "My tank is doing SOOO well," but clearly I have my own little issues to solve. The Phosphate level is far too high for a reef tank with SPS coral, and the encroaching hair algae is a big red flag as you know. However, I do feel I have a pretty good maintenance schedule. I change 15-20 gallons of water every 2 weeks (sometimes I'm lazy and only do 10g) and I completely remove and clean the skimmer cup every other day. I also like to swab out the reaction tube when I do this so I don't get too much buildup that develops on the inside of the chamber wall.
Let's see, what else do I do. When I'm on the ball, I change out the filter floss every couple days. I noticed this helps me a lot when I'm diligent about this. I blow down the rocks (especially the barnacle heads I have) every couple days.
If I were to guess, I would say that my PO4 level developed from a couple issues. First, I would say that I have a couple places of low flow that are prone to collect detritus. You can see one in the full tank shot above. The large boulder-like rock on the right side of the picture: there is an angular black crevice on the left of that boulder that leads deeper into the rock work. Strong in the Dark Side that place is. It's a natural gathering point for detritus. Second, I have an admitted tendency to overfeed. I only have 7 fish in this entire tank, so I should be feeding less. It's a difficult urge to ignore though...they're all swimming up against the glass, doesn't that mean they're hungry?? Must...Feed....Fish.....
Finally, I'd say the PO4 spiked because I lost my Chaeto and my GFO was old. Since I swapped out the GFO, cleaned that reactor completely, and got a new (albeit shredded) ball of Chaeto, we'll soon see how my PO4 reacts.
Other things I need to do: I think my flow levels are too low. I wouldn't have guessed that with 2 K-4's and 2 K-3's in the tank, but my Birdsnest corals have developed some abnormal growth patterns. A little research has shown that this can happen in low-flow environments, and it's NOT good because aside from looking funny, the calcium skeleton isn't as strong as it should be and it become prone to breakage. Thankfully the main colony is in pretty good shape, but I am still considering a larger powerhead to replace the K-4's. I also need to invest in a backup return pump. SOMEBODY I know recently had a mishap with his return pump that would have sent me into fits, so I think a backup return pump (even a so-called CHEAP one) wouldn't be a bad idea.
 

novahobbies

Well-Known Member
Oh and I have to say: Although I'm happy with my CCLED units, the coral coloration really exploded when I added my DIY red, green and warm white bulbs to the mix. That made a lot of difference. RapidLED for the win.
 

novahobbies

Well-Known Member
Read this:
http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2013/06/130617160851.htm
Interesting info. Some potential good news and some bad news about coral reefs in our future. The problem is this: The "acidification" of the ocean isn't just gonna go away. Once the process started, it will take a long, long time to stop. Even if we reduced all our CO2 emissions to 0 tomorrow (which will never happen) we'll still have to deal with this. But anyway. I digress.
Here's what I DID want to talk about. My pH is always pretty steady at 7.8. I wonder if I would achieve better calcification if I could nudge that up to 8.0?? I have complained before about the flimsiness of my birdsnests...now, I KNOW they're naturally flimsy corals, but sometimes I think mine are extremely bad in this regard.
I think I might try to nudge it up and see what happens. What do you think?
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Makes sense.
How are you going to increase your pH? Chemicals? Macroalgae?
Something that was recommended to me was to decrease the amount of decayed organic matter in the system. The less detritus, the less acidification?? I'm not sure about this because I haven't done a lot of research on it just yet. I personally use macroalgae and a high water turnover rate.
IF you dose a chemical to raise your pH, pay close attention to your alkalinity. Most pH buffers actually increase your alkalinity.
 
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siptang

Guest
dude, install that fan in your canopy already. Naturally bring up your pH if not, check your alk then add bit additional kalk instead of ph buffers.
 

novahobbies

Well-Known Member
Funny you mention that. I dug out the wall-wart and plugged in my canopy fans last night. I'll see if those make any difference first. Really don't want to add yet ANOTHER thing to the back of the tank. If I have to add a clamp-on fan, I'll stick it in the sump.
 
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siptang

Guest
it really made a difference in my tank to tell you the truth.
My apex reads consistent higher ph and improved temperature. I keep everything around 76 to 78. Instead of 80-81.
 
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