SCSInet's 180g Reef Build!

[scsinet]

Originally Posted by T316
http:///forum/post/2543488
I was wondering, when I first saw the pvc setup, if you were going to be able to hide all that.
I didn't think that hiding it would be a problem down the road... that coraline would cover it up, but there was just way too much showing. I wasn't as concerned about that as I was how stupid the rocks looked.

 

[hefner413]

Well, I know what's next is waitin for another update, but I must ask - what is your plan now? I ask b/c I am kinda working along (in a much less intense of a build), but I've got my 180 sitting with water and rock - awaiting aquascaping... and I'm pretty much at a standstill. The rock is pretty much just sitting on some plastic supports to prevent pressure points, but just don't know what to do now.
I thought of doing something kinda similar, like making a ledge of some sort by drilling some of the live rock and placing it on pvc supports - putting the pvc through the rocks actually. I just don't know... so got a different plan?

 

[hefner413]

Another question SCSI - what type of aragonite are you using (brand/size)? And are you going to add more to the 80 lbs?

 

[scsinet]

Well the actual timeline of the tank is ahead of the timeline I'm presenting on this thread.
So without giving away what's comign next in my little menagerie, I'll just say that aquascaping gets easier when you have "enough" live rock.
I'm using ordinary Caribsea Aragonite. I forget the exact variety, but it's the "common stuff." I ended up using about 160lbs between the tank and fuge.

 

[hefner413]

cool, thanks.. I'm between the caribsea aragamax (0.2-1.2mm) and the caribsea seaflor (1-1.7mm). Looks like you went with the larger...
So gotta wait on the aquascaping... just as long as you don't make us wait another couple weeks! ha, just kiddin.

 

[wangotango]

Have you thought about foaming the gaps in the rock? Seems like it's a popular thing with the builds on --.
-Justin

 

[scopus tang]

SCSInet, quick question. Liked the idea of the tub in the bottom of the stand to catch overflow. Was wondering if you know anything about the pick-up bedliner spray? Do you know if that would adhere to wood, and if so, would it create a waterproof tub? Just trying to consider some other options for my stand build. Thanks

 

[scsinet]

I cannot imagine that a material that bonds to metal would not bond to wood. Of course, I don't think ordinary joes can get a hold of the stuff, and if I had to guess it's applied with special spray equipment.
If you aren't up on cutting formica, I'd say that epoxy resin would also work in the same way that some build plywood tanks with.
Also, they make a fiberglass material that is often used on bathroom walls, walls in washdown areas like food processing areas in stores and factories, etc. It's a sheet product much like formica. In fact, it's better. Formica isn't meant to be constantly exposed to water, and may eventually swell up. I just had a bunch of it I got for $4 a sheet, so I used that .

 

[hefner413]

that's pretty cheap on the formica. When I refinished my countertop, it cost $40 per 4'x8' sheat of formica.

 

[stdreb27]

Did you, or are you going to raise the levels of your pumps or put them outside the basin for catching water? Be a bummer to spring a leak and loose your pump in the process.

 

[scsinet]

Originally Posted by stdreb27
http:///forum/post/2543971
Did you, or are you going to raise the levels of your pumps or put them outside the basin for catching water? Be a bummer to spring a leak and loose your pump in the process.
It's hard to see in the pictures but the pump does sit high enough to where it won't cause a problem.

 

[wattsupdoc]

Originally Posted by Scopus Tang
http:///forum/post/2543779
SCSInet, quick question. Liked the idea of the tub in the bottom of the stand to catch overflow. Was wondering if you know anything about the pick-up bedliner spray? Do you know if that would adhere to wood, and if so, would it create a waterproof tub? Just trying to consider some other options for my stand build. Thanks
O'rielys sells a bedliner that can be sprayed on with regular painting equipment. It can also be rolled on with their special roller. It does chip/flake somewhat easily though. However, it might not be so easy to flake on wood. It would be water tight.

 

[nel621]

Why not use the light diffuser product on the bottom of the tank? The sand will cover everything and the rocks won't be touching the glass at all!Just a thought.

 

[scsinet]

Originally Posted by Nel621
http:///forum/post/2544126
Why not use the light diffuser product on the bottom of the tank? The sand will cover everything and the rocks won't be touching the glass at all!Just a thought.
Ahh... thought of that. But I wanted a bit more height and wider spacing to allow burrowing animals to use the space. The 3-4" gap between pipes allows plenty of room for a burrow.

 

[nel621]

You could just put some down randomly.Then make one or two small pvc stands.

 

[scsinet]

Originally Posted by Nel621
http:///forum/post/2544136
You could just put some down randomly.Then make one or two small pvc stands.
Yeah I could have done that.
The PVC stands are already out. I'll go over that in my next update.

 

[nel621]

I take it you found a solution to your delima.But if you still feel it isn't right here is one more idea.Since you are able to make stuff with acrilyc[sp] why not make some type of support with this stuff,similar to plate stands,etc. This will be for your elevations.Since it will be clear it will not pose to much of an eye sore.Looking foward to the updates.

 

[scopus tang]

Originally Posted by SCSInet
http:///forum/post/2543917
I cannot imagine that a material that bonds to metal would not bond to wood. If you aren't up on cutting formica, I'd say that epoxy resin would also work in the same way that some build plywood tanks with. Also, they make a fiberglass material that is often used on bathroom walls, walls in washdown areas like food processing areas in stores and factories, etc. It's a sheet product much like formica. In fact, it's better. Formica isn't meant to be constantly exposed to water, and may eventually swell up.
That was kind of my thought, but I've never used it, so I wasn't sure. I'll have to check on the fiberglass material. I don't have any problem cutting the formica, I've done several countertops, but the guy I'm building the stand for doesn't want to spend that much money (I'm making him buy all the materials) ~ keeps my overhead down that way.
=wattsupdoc] O'rielys sells a bedliner that can be sprayed on with regular painting equipment. It can also be rolled on with their special roller. It does chip/flake somewhat easily though. However, it might not be so easy to flake on wood. It would be water tight.
Thanks Doc, that was the big question, as I've never worked with the stuff myself.
Thanks again fellas. BTW SCSInet, that set-up is sure looking good!

Can't wait to see it all up and running.

 

[scsinet]

Scopus, one thing you can do is simply use several coats of polyurethane on the wood basin, then caulk the seams. It'll hold water fine in the event of a leak. Of course no wood should be continuously exposed to water, but for an emergency remedy, it should be fine.

 

[scopus tang]

Originally Posted by SCSInet
http:///forum/post/2544646
Scopus, one thing you can do is simply use several coats of polyurethane on the wood basin, then caulk the seams. It'll hold water fine in the event of a leak. Of course no wood should be continuously exposed to water, but for an emergency remedy, it should be fine.
Now there is an all too easy solution that I didn't even think about. If I remember correctly, most polyurethanes call for about 5 coats is they are going to be exposed to water. That just may be the solution I was looking for. Thanks