SCSInet's 180g Reef Build!
- Thread starter scsinet
- Start date
stdreb27
Active Member
Originally Posted by SCSInet
Respect electricity, and it will respect you!
My uncle used to say that, he build the the transmitters for tv and radio stations. And one day I dropped an 18 in metal sheet before he had powered the thing up, and they came running out like madmen because of the popping it made to make sure it wasn't powering up. then i got chewed out. (honest mistake) But I didn't understand till they did power it up. WOW! That was the day I learned to respect electricity.
Respect electricity, and it will respect you!
My uncle used to say that, he build the the transmitters for tv and radio stations. And one day I dropped an 18 in metal sheet before he had powered the thing up, and they came running out like madmen because of the popping it made to make sure it wasn't powering up. then i got chewed out. (honest mistake) But I didn't understand till they did power it up. WOW! That was the day I learned to respect electricity.
ifirefight
Active Member
Alright Dave....The Holidays are over. You need to get back to work on this baby,and post some pics. Im having withdrawls.....
jtrzerocool
Active Member
Originally Posted by ifirefight
Alright Dave....The Holidays are over. You need to get back to work on this baby,and post some pics. Im having withdrawls.....
agreed!
Alright Dave....The Holidays are over. You need to get back to work on this baby,and post some pics. Im having withdrawls.....
agreed!
ifirefight
Active Member
Originally Posted by SCSInet
BWAHHAHA
Okay fair enough. If it's any consolation, work has been continuing, I'm just behind on the pictures.
Let me get another fix together for you junkies and I'll post it up either tonight or tomorrow morning.
Maybe I'll even share my oceans motions drama.
I KNEW he was holding out on us!
BWAHHAHA
Okay fair enough. If it's any consolation, work has been continuing, I'm just behind on the pictures.
Let me get another fix together for you junkies and I'll post it up either tonight or tomorrow morning.
Maybe I'll even share my oceans motions drama.
I KNEW he was holding out on us!
scsinet
Active Member
Finishing the Stand
Dang it's been a while since my last update on this.
Before I get into it, I have to report that somehow I misplaced a whole bunch of pictures. I have no idea what happened to them, so there are going to be some gaps in the timeline... sorry.
Here are some details of the stand's completion...
The first task was dealing with the bottom of the ********. I wanted a waterproof basin.
First, I used caulk to seal the bottom plywood in place, screwed it down, filled the countersunk holes with caulk, then caulked all around the bottom edges for extra protection.
Next, the entire stand, inside and out, got a coat of polyurethane. Then I laid down formica, and sealed the seams with silicon.
Using a combination of pocket sc-rew (can we not do something about this censor???
) and biscuit jointery, the top of the stand was assembled from solid red oak.
Sanded...
Dang it's been a while since my last update on this.
Before I get into it, I have to report that somehow I misplaced a whole bunch of pictures. I have no idea what happened to them, so there are going to be some gaps in the timeline... sorry.
Here are some details of the stand's completion...
The first task was dealing with the bottom of the ********. I wanted a waterproof basin.
First, I used caulk to seal the bottom plywood in place, screwed it down, filled the countersunk holes with caulk, then caulked all around the bottom edges for extra protection.
Next, the entire stand, inside and out, got a coat of polyurethane. Then I laid down formica, and sealed the seams with silicon.
Using a combination of pocket sc-rew (can we not do something about this censor???
Sanded...
scsinet
Active Member
Now comes the interesting part...
I've come to understand that setting a glass tank directly on a foam underlayment can cause more problems than it solves. I wanted the foam to form a solid, stable underlayment, but didn't want the trouble associated with setting the tank on it.
So what I did was put the foam BETWEEN the top of the stand and the stand's framework.
The top actually "floats" on the stand. It's not attached, so the foam can settle and compress without causing damage to the stand, nor causing potentially catastrophic torsion stress on the tank.
Next, I started on the faceframe for the cabinet.
Here is where the pictures drop off (one of the places). The face frame is designed in much the same way as the top. One thing to note is that there IS a center support in the middle of the front. I left it out during the original build of the frame as it was unnecessary to support the empty tank, and I wanted the clearance to easily get underneath when I was setting up plumbing.
The face frame is again solid red oak (no plywood), and is fastened to the frame using a very thick application of silicon caulk, to allow for movement between the framework and the frame, again to reduce stress as the stand settles into the rug.
There are two large openings the front, and a door on each side - one to allow the large sump to be slid in from the side, and another to allow access to the pump and skimmer without moving all the crap in front of it, and for a spot for the controller electronics (to be built... long story).
I've come to understand that setting a glass tank directly on a foam underlayment can cause more problems than it solves. I wanted the foam to form a solid, stable underlayment, but didn't want the trouble associated with setting the tank on it.
So what I did was put the foam BETWEEN the top of the stand and the stand's framework.
The top actually "floats" on the stand. It's not attached, so the foam can settle and compress without causing damage to the stand, nor causing potentially catastrophic torsion stress on the tank.
Next, I started on the faceframe for the cabinet.
Here is where the pictures drop off (one of the places). The face frame is designed in much the same way as the top. One thing to note is that there IS a center support in the middle of the front. I left it out during the original build of the frame as it was unnecessary to support the empty tank, and I wanted the clearance to easily get underneath when I was setting up plumbing.
The face frame is again solid red oak (no plywood), and is fastened to the frame using a very thick application of silicon caulk, to allow for movement between the framework and the frame, again to reduce stress as the stand settles into the rug.
There are two large openings the front, and a door on each side - one to allow the large sump to be slid in from the side, and another to allow access to the pump and skimmer without moving all the crap in front of it, and for a spot for the controller electronics (to be built... long story).
turningtim
Active Member
Nice work SCSI!
Tim
Tim
ifirefight
Active Member
Looks real good Dave, I have a question though. I like the Idea of the foam between the stand and the top section....BUT why is the piece taht sits on top,need to be solid wood,not ply? Im thinking..that you have it hanging over the edge and are going to bring the rest of the frame UP..to meet with the top section??
scsinet
Active Member
Originally Posted by ifirefight
Looks real good Dave, I have a question though. I like the Idea of the foam between the stand and the top section....BUT why is the piece taht sits on top,need to be solid wood,not ply? Im thinking..that you have it hanging over the edge and are going to bring the rest of the frame UP..to meet with the top section??
I like to make my stands so it looks like the tank is sitting on a table. So the top of the stand's front edge is exposed. If I used plywood, I'd have to veneer the edge, so I just used solid oak instead.
Looks real good Dave, I have a question though. I like the Idea of the foam between the stand and the top section....BUT why is the piece taht sits on top,need to be solid wood,not ply? Im thinking..that you have it hanging over the edge and are going to bring the rest of the frame UP..to meet with the top section??
I like to make my stands so it looks like the tank is sitting on a table. So the top of the stand's front edge is exposed. If I used plywood, I'd have to veneer the edge, so I just used solid oak instead.
scsinet
Active Member
Originally Posted by Hefner413
is the foam a necessity? I've yet to start setting up my 180, but don't have any foam for it? Should I get some? If so - what do you use?
I wouldn't say that the foam is 100% necessary, but it's tendency to compress at pressure points causes it to help even out small inconsistencies in the stand, the floor, etc.
I debated heavily whether or not I even wanted to use it, but what I ultimately decided was that if there was even a 1% chance that one day it would mean the difference between a broken tank and not, then it was worth incorporating into the design. Everyone that knows anything about tanks (including fish god Fenner) recommends it.
However, he and others I've heard state that putting it directly under a glass tank with plastic structural elements can cause issues, which is why I put the stand's framework between the tank and the foam. Unfortunately I've never heard anyone tell me what those "issues" are.
is the foam a necessity? I've yet to start setting up my 180, but don't have any foam for it? Should I get some? If so - what do you use?
I wouldn't say that the foam is 100% necessary, but it's tendency to compress at pressure points causes it to help even out small inconsistencies in the stand, the floor, etc.
I debated heavily whether or not I even wanted to use it, but what I ultimately decided was that if there was even a 1% chance that one day it would mean the difference between a broken tank and not, then it was worth incorporating into the design. Everyone that knows anything about tanks (including fish god Fenner) recommends it.
However, he and others I've heard state that putting it directly under a glass tank with plastic structural elements can cause issues, which is why I put the stand's framework between the tank and the foam. Unfortunately I've never heard anyone tell me what those "issues" are.
t316
Active Member
Originally Posted by SCSInet
I wouldn't say that the foam is 100% necessary, but it's tendency to compress at pressure points causes it to help even out small inconsistencies in the stand, the floor, etc.
However, he and others I've heard state that putting it directly under a glass tank with plastic structural elements can cause issues, which is why I put the stand's framework between the tank and the foam. Unfortunately I've never heard anyone tell me what those "issues" are.
I can't imagine what these issues are either. In setting up mine, Glasscages required it to be under there, or warranty is voided.
I wouldn't say that the foam is 100% necessary, but it's tendency to compress at pressure points causes it to help even out small inconsistencies in the stand, the floor, etc.
However, he and others I've heard state that putting it directly under a glass tank with plastic structural elements can cause issues, which is why I put the stand's framework between the tank and the foam. Unfortunately I've never heard anyone tell me what those "issues" are.
I can't imagine what these issues are either. In setting up mine, Glasscages required it to be under there, or warranty is voided.
scsinet
Active Member
Originally Posted by T316
I can't imagine what these issues are either. In setting up mine, Glasscages required it to be under there, or warranty is voided.
It has to do with tanks that have plastic frames. I don't think GlassCages tanks have that... that may be the difference ??
I can't imagine what these issues are either. In setting up mine, Glasscages required it to be under there, or warranty is voided.
It has to do with tanks that have plastic frames. I don't think GlassCages tanks have that... that may be the difference ??
t316
Active Member
Originally Posted by SCSInet
It has to do with tanks that have plastic frames. I don't think GlassCages tanks have that... that may be the difference ??
I'll look again tonight, but I'm almost positive I have a black plastic (maybe 2") rim around the top, and I think the bottom also. You are getting me worried now. Tank is 6' long, and I put it directly on top of 3/4" styro, doubled up so 1 1/2". This rim is very thin though, maybe 1/8" or less thick, so I can't imagine how that wouldn't settle into the styro and be okay.
It has to do with tanks that have plastic frames. I don't think GlassCages tanks have that... that may be the difference ??
I'll look again tonight, but I'm almost positive I have a black plastic (maybe 2") rim around the top, and I think the bottom also. You are getting me worried now. Tank is 6' long, and I put it directly on top of 3/4" styro, doubled up so 1 1/2". This rim is very thin though, maybe 1/8" or less thick, so I can't imagine how that wouldn't settle into the styro and be okay.