T5 vs Metal Halide debate answered

[squishy]

I hope this comes out right but this is why I belive that Mh are better
T5 MH
Rated life (hours) 20,000 20,000
CRI 82 65
Lumen maintenance 93% @ 40% of life 65% @ 40%
Number of lamps per equivalent system 4 1
System watts 234 452
System initial lumens 17,800 37,600
System mean lumens 16,544 24,440
Mercury in the system 12 5.6 - 20 mg 40 - 65 mg
* Lumens produced by HO T5 lamps depend on operating temperature.
This is just my OMG But it is an actual chart. And remeber this is all fun

 

[ibew]

the funs is mostly to dissapate heat to the ballast most fixtures that have external ballast have fans built in them and through out the years the lighting fixtures have been getting smaller and more compact so the need to get read of excess heat is allways a concern to a smaller enclosure I never actually seen a case were heat caused a problem to a lamp unless the lamp didnt have ample room in the houseing

 

[ogredawg]

I wanted to get into mh before but I changed my mind because of heat issue. My house doesn't have AC so during summer time it gets pretty hot inside the house. I guess it really depends on situation also, not everyone can keep mh. My friend used to use mh but after the heatwave we had, he switched to t5. His tank runs way cooler now, but I have to say that mh does look better. I can't keep mh because I wouldn't want to risk my tank when another heat wave comes.

 

[hatessushi]

I am running T5's w/actincs also MH's. I must say that the MH's by far look way nicer then the T5's. the T5's are way cooler though. Since I added the MH's I am now worrying about the electirc bill. As long as my corals get enough light is all I care about besides the electric bill. If you want to talk lumens and electricty, I don't claim to know much. Just enough to hook things up but never to comfortable about it. My forte is computers since it's what I do and have done for 30 years.
Lighting Schedule
Actinic kicks on at 6:00am
T5's on at 8:00am
T5's off at 10:30am
MH's on at 10:30am
MH's off at 2:30pm
T5's on at 2:30pm
T5's off at 4:30pm
Actinics off at 8:00pm
moonlights on at 8::00pm
Moonlights off at 6:00am

 

[piscesblue]

Ibew, Go to the other BIG board and have a chat with Grim Reefer, he is the only one I know that can provide the #'s you desire. And yes, the temp does make a measurable difference in PAR on the T5's. It works both ways, too hot or cold and the really lose a lot. Grim has the #'s to prove that too, he has the equipment to measure what ever you want. I'm not supporting anything since I have never owned MH, but I do know that my PC's are on their way back to the Doctors' as soon as my TEK T5's arrive in the mail. I came to that conclusion after reading 240 pages on this subject, I'm sure it's the same link Fanker posted.
To end this debate, and hopefully some future ones, MH's are far superior to T5's if:
-You have the money to purchase, operate and replace them.
-You have a tank large enough to control the heat
-You have the experience and ability to keep the critters that actually require MH's
T5's are far superior if:
-You have a buget but want a high quality light
-You can't afford a chiller on your 55gal
-You are a beginner who has no business keeping SPS's and will upgrade to a larger system and lighting scheme once you have gained the experience.
Can everyone agree on this? MH's = pro T5 = average PC = sucker
Now onto the

 

[viper_930]

I have 300 watts of MH on a 20g with a sump and no chiller. About 30 gallons total system volume. The temp. stays at around 80-81.5, maybe 82 max, with the room temp. being around 75 give or take. Just trying to show that you don't have to have a chiller with halides. I think a 30g with 300 watts of MH is pretty extreme, too.

 

[piscesblue]

Extreme, you might say that.

I can't keep my 75gal under 82 with 260w of PC and an ambient room temp of 73. Anyways, people who have the ability to own MH's should. For the rest, T5's are better than PCs and they cost the same. When purchasing T5's, make sure they have individual reflectors and spring for the good bulbs, this is what makes them better than the PC's.
How do HQI's compare with conventional halides?

 

[tx reef]

Originally Posted by PiscesBlue
Ibew, Go to the other BIG board and have a chat with Grim Reefer, he is the only one I know that can provide the #'s you desire. And yes, the temp does make a measurable difference in PAR on the T5's. It works both ways, too hot or cold and the really lose a lot. Grim has the #'s to prove that too, he has the equipment to measure what ever you want. I'm not supporting anything since I have never owned MH, but I do know that my PC's are on their way back to the Doctors' as soon as my TEK T5's arrive in the mail. I came to that conclusion after reading 240 pages on this subject, I'm sure it's the same link Fanker posted.
To end this debate, and hopefully some future ones, MH's are far superior to T5's if:
-You have the money to purchase, operate and replace them.
-You have a tank large enough to control the heat
-You have the experience and ability to keep the critters that actually require MH's
T5's are far superior if:
-You have a buget but want a high quality light
-You can't afford a chiller on your 55gal
-You are a beginner who has no business keeping SPS's and will upgrade to a larger system and lighting scheme once you have gained the experience.
Can everyone agree on this? MH's = pro T5 = average PC = sucker
Now onto the

I wouldn't use the word "superior."
You might say that one or the other is preferable, because MH are a superior lighting source compared to T5.
By the way, I built my 2 - 175 watt MH system for only $320.
I already had the PCs to use for actinics.
If you hunt around, MH don't have to be real expensive.

 

[oceana]

Originally Posted by TX Reef
I wouldn't use the word "superior."
You might say that one or the other is preferable, because MH are a superior lighting source compared to T5.
By the way, I built my 2 - 175 watt MH system for only $320.
I already had the PCs to use for actinics.
If you hunt around, MH don't have to be real expensive.

yup same here. i built my units of all the tanks. and can you belive i built them all by myself and did not even have to go to school for it??

i must be some sort of mastermind lol

sorry i know low blow but damn Ibew its just wire not rocket science. come down a few steps and you wont come off so irrigant.
also like you i did it FOR alot cheaper then buying a unit and the parts are better. gotta love diy

 

[baytran7]

Originally Posted by PiscesBlue
Ibew, Go to the other BIG board and have a chat with Grim Reefer, he is the only one I know that can provide the #'s you desire. And yes, the temp does make a measurable difference in PAR on the T5's. It works both ways, too hot or cold and the really lose a lot. Grim has the #'s to prove that too, he has the equipment to measure what ever you want. I'm not supporting anything since I have never owned MH, but I do know that my PC's are on their way back to the Doctors' as soon as my TEK T5's arrive in the mail. I came to that conclusion after reading 240 pages on this subject, I'm sure it's the same link Fanker posted.
To end this debate, and hopefully some future ones, MH's are far superior to T5's if:
-You have the money to purchase, operate and replace them.
-You have a tank large enough to control the heat
-You have the experience and ability to keep the critters that actually require MH's
T5's are far superior if:
-You have a buget but want a high quality light
-You can't afford a chiller on your 55gal
-You are a beginner who has no business keeping SPS's and will upgrade to a larger system and lighting scheme once you have gained the experience.
Can everyone agree on this? MH's = pro T5 = average PC = sucker
Now onto the

Superior? Now how can you call something superior when you have no proof? Before you speak about something so blindly why don't you do some research and post your findings. I don't care if your tank hosts Stonies or Clams, you can do that with both T5s and Halides, Pros use halides? I've seen guys kill every animal in the sea when they use halides because they don't know about water quality, some guys have PCs and keep Stonies and Clams alive for years, A pro is a guy who writes for Aquarium Fish Magazine, has kept shoals of Morish Idols or colonies of Gonioporas all these kept with knowledge instead of luck for years. You are an amateur buddy, your post just proved it.

 

[bill f]

Bulb Life? and bulb cost?
Squishy stated that MH will last 20,000 Hrs (8-9hrs per day = 2500+ days or 6+ years) is that correct? or am I misunderstanding? what does a MH bulb cost to replace.
Also what about T5?
My old PC's (4 bulb) would have to be replaced every 6 months at $25-$30 a pop. That's $200+ per year on bulbs.
Just curious but definitely want MH on my new 180.

 

[bill f]

Also, what size/output (150 or 250) would you recommend for the 180 (2x2x6)? Not interested in sps but would like softies etc.

 

[squishy]

Originally Posted by Bill F
Bulb Life? and bulb cost?
Squishy stated that MH will last 20,000 Hrs (8-9hrs per day = 2500+ days or 6+ years) is that correct? or am I misunderstanding? what does a MH bulb cost to replace.
Also what about T5?
My old PC's (4 bulb) would have to be replaced every 6 months at $25-$30 a pop. That's $200+ per year on bulbs.
Just curious but definitely want MH on my new 180.
The recommended average for max lummens for MH is 12 to 14 months. The bulb will stay bright for average of 6 years. Same goes for most T5s are yearly 2.. That study is on 4 T5 to one MH. My MH Bulbs are worth $150
(ouch). I change them every 12 to 14 months and the T5s every 10 months
But that is just me and the way I do things

 

[bill f]

OK, Thanks Squishy,
but would you recommend 150's or 250's for a 180 2x2x6

 

[brigbills]

I am building a light box to hang over my Hexagon tank. I think I need a retro to put in the box. My tank is 23 inchs across. Can someone recommend a lighting system I can put in it. T5 in the middle and CP on the side? Glass or no glass on the bottom?
Any hlep would great.
I have 2 clowns and live rock and clean up crew for about 3 months and the tanks is 5 months running
Thanks

 

[squishy]

Originally Posted by Bill F
OK, Thanks Squishy,
but would you recommend 150's or 250's for a 180 2x2x6
This is just my opinion bu if I was going to light that tank I would use a metal halide strip of 10k and 20k but I would defintly go for the 250s. That is what I will be lighting up my new tank with also.

 

[bill f]

I got an acyrllic, do you foresee any problems with heat affect the acryllic?
What unit are you looking at?

 

[squishy]

Originally Posted by Bill F
I got an acyrllic, do you foresee any problems with heat affect the acryllic?
What unit are you looking at?
I don't c any problem with acrylic. A lot of people including my self mount a fan by the lights to help control the heat.
The unit that I really like are aquamedics but that is just a prefrence. there are a lot of good light system out there and a lot of differnt looks. But like anything price matters. If you buy a 50 dollar system it is a 50 dollar system.

 

[butter]

"T5 is at least 33% more efficient than a Metal Halide luminaires" - this is a quote from a lighting design engineer that works at a local lighting company near my house.
According to several experts in the lightin industry, T5 is definitely way better than the MH. The price is cheaper by 2 to 3 times. The heat generated from the bulb is much cooler, and don't have to worry as much about the heat ventilation. I have attached a chart from the brochure that simply says that MH is dying and T5 is still growing strong.

I don't understand how some yall "pros" use MH, maybe it's because the name MH ... Must Have. I personally would stick with T5, it's a far more superior technology than MH.

 

[acrylic51]

Lumens doesn't mean much when it comes to penetration of water depth.....
Lumens is the total amount of light a lamp is capable of generating. Because aquarium lamps designed for reef aquariums are tuned more towarsthe blue wavelengths, the value of using the concept lumens for aquarium purposes remains questionable......
What background does the design engineer have working at your local lighting place have over the experience in the reef hobby like Bob Goemans???
All your doing is qouting lighting experts in the industry.....Your not talking specific application to the hobby....Again would like to put these experts against Goemans, and Sanjay lighting knowledge.....