Updates on new SW tank

woodymdt

Member

Originally posted by arkey.d
What color is it? If it's red, it's Cyanobactria which is bad. If it's brown then it's dead diatoms, which will go away as long as your not using tap water. If it's green then it's the good stuff for your cleaner crew to get rid of. If you have a bunch then check your phosphates, High Phosphate and nitrates can cause large algea blooms.........

Most of the algae is green in color. The Diatoms have died off for the most part, and this hair like stuff has taken it's place.
I do have a few small red fuzzy looking patches.
I'm due for water tests this evening, so I'll check the nitrates...not sure my test kit has a phosphates test. If not, I'll go to my LFS and get one.
 

woodymdt

Member
Does the pale green thing look like anything to any of you? It's on the end of part of the LR, and it has little "modules" all over it...almost like polyps???
 

ren99

Member
hey there woody, great thread. Been reading and following.
I have a question that I forgot wheather or not you had mentioned it.
What kind of lights are you using?
 

woodymdt

Member

Originally posted by ren99
hey there woody, great thread. Been reading and following.
I have a question that I forgot wheather or not you had mentioned it.
What kind of lights are you using?

Hey Ren,
Thanks for checking in.
I'm running a Current Satellite lighting system, 2x96W, with moon lighting. It's pretty cool stuff.
 

woodymdt

Member
Ok, so the question of the day is this?
What should I do about this hair algae that's growing like crazy on the LR, the back glass, the side glass, etc.
Should I leave it alone and hope the crabs, snails, and shrimp will consume it?
Should I cut it off the LR?
Should I dose it with anything??
I've taken the Emporer off and put the AquaTech 30/60 on, about the same flow rate but no bio wheels.
So, what about all this algae??
 

woodymdt

Member
Oh and btw...
my nitrates are low, below 10ppm, I don't have a test for phosphates, going to get that this weekend, but I'm assuming I have a phosphate problem and lighting. Should I lessen the time that I have the daylight lamps on for awhile?
Also, I read that emerald crabs are great algae scavengers...so guess what I'm buying tomorrow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
:jumping: :jumping:
 

arkey.d

Member
I don't think the emporer was your problem, your tank hasn't been up that long, but one thing I learned is that what works for one person in SW doesn't neccesarily work for another.....
With that being said, if you do a search on Green Hair Algea, you get 3 reasons for it: Long Lighting, High Phosphates and/or high Nitrates.
You can get a product called phosphate out, or they have media that you can put in a filter cartride for getting rid of Phospates. For Nitrates you can do water changes and you can use a product called Nitrex, which is what I use. Or have a Fuge and put macro algea in it. For lights, just cut down the time you have them on for.
You can take the rocks out of the tank and scrub them in saltwater to get the algea off as well. Don't do this in your display tank or you can spread it..............
The cleaner crew will help, but may not get rid of it entirely and I believe having a skimmer will help too.
As far as the Little critters that will help, Emerald Crabs and Mexican Turbo Snails and other varius snails. Some say Fish like a Lawn Mower Blenny or Bicolor Blenny will help, but I think they also eat all the little critters in your sand bed.
 

woodymdt

Member

Originally posted by arkey.d
I don't think the emporer was your problem, your tank hasn't been up that long, but one thing I learned is that what works for one person in SW doesn't neccesarily work for another.....
With that being said, if you do a search on Green Hair Algea, you get 3 reasons for it: Long Lighting, High Phosphates and/or high Nitrates.
You can get a product called phosphate out, or they have media that you can put in a filter cartride for getting rid of Phospates. For Nitrates you can do water changes and you can use a product called Nitrex, which is what I use. Or have a Fuge and put macro algea in it. For lights, just cut down the time you have them on for.
You can take the rocks out of the tank and scrub them in saltwater to get the algea off as well. Don't do this in your display tank or you can spread it..............
The cleaner crew will help, but may not get rid of it entirely.

Well Dan, I would probably say the Emporer wasn't the problem either, but I had ulterior motives as well. When I get the 55 gallon tank converted, I want as much help as I can get, and the Emporer will come in handy on that tank as well.
As far as the other...I will get timers this weekend to start getting the lights on more of a strict schedule. I think they're probably on too long, right now we turn them on around 7:30am and the daylights stay on until around 7:00pm, so getting them regulated I think might help some.
I wanted to get a couple emerald crabs anyway, I've read they are notorious for eating the algae, so that might help as well. If it still is running ragged by this time next week, I'll start looking into more chemical means to rid the tank of the majority of it.
Even though the nitrates are down, I'm still due for a water change this weekend. It'll be the second since we've started this tank. And I'm still playing around with the idea of setting up a 10 gallon fuge, just haven't figured out the plumbing for it yet.
 

arkey.d

Member
If you go to the DIY Equipment forum, they can definitly help ya out with the plumbing for your fuge.
Since your SWA isn't drilled you would need an overflow box and then the pump to pump the water back to your tank. I think the overflow boxes run around $100 or so........
But if you do a fuge, you can put macro algea in it which will eat up the nutrients that the hair algea needs and the hair algea will disappear......
 

woodymdt

Member

Originally posted by arkey.d
If you go to the DIY Equipment forum, they can definitly help ya out with the plumbing for your fuge.
Since your SWA isn't drilled you would need an overflow box and then the pump to pump the water back to your tank. I think the overflow boxes run around $100 or so........
But if you do a fuge, you can put macro algea in it which will eat up the nutrients that the hair algea needs and the hair algea will disappear......

Actually I've looked at a few DIY plans. I'm terrible with looking at drawings and understanding them, (one of my many setbacks), but if I can't get it I'll find someone who can spend some time with me on the phone, or possibly in person and go over it. By macro algae I'm presuming you mean the plants that grow in the tank, many people move them to their fuge and just let them grow pretty much to fill the fuge up, yes?
I don't get the "overflow" thing. I've seen the U shaped pvc that is supposed to siphon the water out, then the pump to send the water back to the display tank...so it's just me more than anything else understanding the principle of it.
But never fear, I'll figure out sometime...:scared:
 

arkey.d

Member

Originally posted by woodymdt
By macro algae I'm presuming you mean the plants that grow in the tank, many people move them to their fuge and just let them grow pretty much to fill the fuge up, yes?

Yep that pretty much explains it. Stuff you wouldn't want in your display tank goes in the fuge....
Here's what an Overflow box looks like. A built-in overflow is the most efficient method of draining aquarium water to a filter. If your aquarium does not have built-in overflow, siphon overflow boxes are the best means for getting water from an aquarium to a filter system without expensive modifications to the tank.
 

woodymdt

Member
OMGoodness.
I spent some time reading through two DIY fuge/sump threads, and my head is just spinning....
I'm going to have to try and break those down and see what I'd actually need for my setup.
It's impressive talk in there, but it's also very confusing.:confused:
 

ren99

Member
woody, how much did you pay for those lights?
I am planning on starting a tank about 55 gallon too, but I don't know what kind of lights to get. I would love to have metal hallide of course, but all the ones I find are like $500 - $1000.
 

woodymdt

Member
I've read a lot about the MH lights as well....and probably would have chosen them if affordable, but since I'm just starting out, I wanted economical as well as workable.
These lights were in the $180 ballpark...I'd have to look at the site or my CC statement to get the exact cost, but they weren't bad.
If I'm not mistaken, retro fitting is a little bit of DIY with people building their own canopies for lights and then doing the wiring themselves.
I could be wrong, but I think that's it.
 

ren99

Member
Thanks for the information and nice icon change!

hm I know for a fish only tank some basic lights are good enough, but what if I decide to do some corals, then I would have to buy MH lights on top of the basic light I got first. so that is 2x the cost. dillema dillema
Nick.
 
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