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Originally Posted by meowzer What do you use to buffer your alk??? I do 15ml a day of seachem reef carbonate currently. I use IO salt which is a high alkalinity salt but makes little difference. There are 55-75g heavily stocked SPS tanks dosing upwards of 75ml a day just to keep alk up.

no matter what salt you use you'll have to buffer alkalinity. coralife's alkalinity is fine. alkalinity for us is a measure of carbonates present. buffer= carbonates. adding an alkalinity (carbonate) "buffer" is no different to carbonates than adding calcium is to keep calcium levels steady or...

kind of both and neither. the sump doesn't really attribute to the bioload but it does effect the amount of water processed for hour. then how big you go really depends on how optimistic the ratings are. I wouldn't use anything rated for less than 180g. what skimmers in particular are you at.

the harder ones (which are ANY from the indo pacific) require dirty nutrient rich water. the easy ones (any from australia) dont require anything special. they arent particularly demanding in any other way (typical LPS). Who knows what happened to the indo pacific elegance but I think its more...

how big a tank doesn't matter. one lamp can support a 2x2 foot area with a "normal" reflector and up to 3x3' area with a more developed wide coverage reflector (lumenmax elite for example). 175w is good for a tank depth of about 20" give or take a few inches. I had 175w aqualine 13k over a 19"...

Originally Posted by The_Bandit I do have a question though. Right now I do a 5g water change every wednesday. Is this enough for a 40g BR and 20g L sump? When I get the RO/DI unit, I'd like to get as much pure water in the tank as possible. Should I do a large (maybe 15-20g) water change or...

Originally Posted by meowzer Well I have not had any issues either...BUT....You know I am not happy with my coral growth.....or should I say lack of it%% so I am trying to get more stuff specifically for reef... what's a salt change suppose to do for growth? If you are maintaining ca and...

most typical standards dont really factor cube and huge front to back dimensions such as this. For example a tang would normally be discouraged but for large cubes its sort of a grey area. use common sense/judgement.

no deader than part one. like stated they are closed and can likely recover under good conditions and time. It can take months. once they are dead you'll know because the wont be there at all for long.

not overkill for corals (you could always raise the lamp anyway if needed). I'd be more concerned with excessive evaporation and elevated tank temps. You'll need any and/or all of the following to keep temps/evaporation in check: lamp raised appropriately high, fairly short light cycle and auto...

none that hobbiest have anyway of knowing. For example D&D is suppose to be rich in potassium. K test even beyond hobby grade have less than stellar accuracy. Beyond that and iodine (which the need for elevated levels is always debated) you can test for virtually none and manufacturers dont give...

not in the least, 85% of your water is unchanged and even the new 15% of water is only going to be 20% or less off of your old water (if your calcium is 400ppm thats +- 100ppm, about +- 250ppm mg and +- 2dKH. its unlikely the redsea is off more than that from your tank water). mathematically...

Originally Posted by dc2mlbsm so do u guys recommend me just feeding my fish and just adding vitamins or what? I will be feeding mysis shrimp if that helps just feed the fish. if you have fish in a 20g there wont be a shortage of nutrients and if there is it wont be anytime soon (until after...

I like the Elos. few more steps than I like (you basically do typical for mg add drops til the color changes but with the Elos you do this twice (the old version had one step). the color change is well defined and complete with the one drop that changes the color so its fool proof. I havent...

yup looks like it was bleached and slowly receding when you purchased it. just leave it be and see what happens. I once had a digi somebody gave me that took a few months to come around.

sure no reason not to use it. I wouldn't buffer it before water changes. I have never really found it deficient (certainly no less so than IO). I've been thru buckets of it with no problems. I use IO the last few buckets but if I had 3 bags of redsea I'd use it. matter of fact there are few...

raising the calcium above 380ppm probably isn't going to do anything for coral growth but I wouldn't let it get any lower. You'd be more likely to get better growth elevating alkalinity which studies have shown increased growth rates. coral structures are made of calcium carbonate and alkalinity...

phoenix are bluer, aquamaxx are more radium like but phoenix probably have more par. cant go wrong with either three. no point in running this decision thru your head over and over. get one and next time around get the other.

Originally Posted by Keith Gray Has anyone here used the Seachem reef complete ? I don't have the time, energy or money to do a drip system. I was curious if anyone had used this product and found it beneficial I use reef complete daily but reef complete is a calcium supplement (calcium...

Originally Posted by beaslbob Not an expert here but from what I hear that while aragonite and limestome are both calcium carbonate based, there are difference in composition and structure between the two. you may very well be right but florida aquacultured live rock is dry mined limestone for...