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bad pic, but heres mines..

People always say there so big once they get it onto their tanks..id use it if you can effectively hide it behind rockwork..or having if itll be in a big tank.

rob, ive read of that method too, but i still havent seen anybody actually try it yet..they are/can be very good mechanical filters though. its a good idea. you should try it sweetreef, no need for sponges or anything like that.:thinking:

i dont think you should try it..just spend the extra money on good aquarium mh bulbs..plus, 5K is pretty yellow, i doubt you want a yellow looking tank, unless you have a lot of actinic supplements.

water changes should be performed weekly(usually 10%), because dilution is the source to pollution..so getting the "bad" out faster is better than letting it accumalate. and as far as the algae problems go..your tank is still pretty new, so you will have algae problems for a bit.. btw, are you...

depends on the K (kelvin) rating..lowest you can go is 5000K, nothing less..and i doubt HD has the right wattages..do they?

youre going to use the ecosystem brand "mud"? it has been shown to have high amounts of aluminum.

your condy is still probably moving to find its right spot.. and FYI, anenomes dont eat things so small as algae cells, you need to feed it shrimp, mussels, clam, etc. condy anenomes also get really big, i had one, and had to get rid of it, because it was starting to sting things around it..

looks like colonial tunicates..

if you have a lot of calcium-using corals/inverts, then maybe you do need to use a calcium supplement. but, i doubt you need to yet, but most likely later when you have more or bigger corals/inverts. water changes should be sufficient for you in replenishing calcium.

phytoplex is dead algae cells, which means not nearly as nutritious as the live that you buy..

strontium, molybdenum and iodine are in such small quantities that youll replenish what you need by weekly water changes. so to answer your question, you dont need it..

nass. snails, cirratulid worms, bristle worms, pistol shrimp, microcrustaceans, etc, etc, etc. all of those critters makes a healthy sandbed.

you should have it fluctuate as little as possible. 8.2-8.4 is best. the only way you can keep your pH steady is by having a reverse lighting refugium. you should try avoid adding pH buffers too.

plankton do make skimmers go crazy, but as for the trace elements, you shouldnt be having problems with that..so its good to turn your skimmer off for about a 1/2 after dosing plankton.

anywhere from 76-84(can go up to 88 and be safe, but just be careful) is ideal.

good options are: eggcrate(also called light diffusers), or plexiglass cut with holes in it(for heat dissipation)..

CC just isnt good at all for any kind of saltwater tanks. it traps your fish's wastes, uneaten food, all that. it also isnt good for certain types of microcrustaceans you want to thrive.

yea itll help when youre doing the water changes.

live rock helps to a degree, but a deep, live sand bed is what really helps..about 3" and up of oolitic sand is what you should go.