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You could also make the bow out of multiple layers of 1/4 inck thick panels,,,glued and clamped into a bowed jig..This would be easier,quicker,and most likly stronger than trying to warp the wood with water or steam....

Mke space for skimmer,heaters,dosing equiptment,,Pretty much any equiptment(except powerheads) you don't want to see in the main tank...

Ammo,and nitrite at zero,and showing brown diatoms are usually signs of a tank that is near or at the END of the cycle....How long has this tank been setup??? How much live rock is in there??? How big is the tank???

I don'tsee why not...As long as you match the wattage it should work.

Just a thought,,,are your overflows adjustable??Mine are,the box that sits inside of the tank can be adjusted so it sits higher or lower in the tank...This is to adjust the water level in the tank...If so adjust the slow one down into the water a bit more so it flows equal to the other one.

Actually the lighting should be OFF,and remain off for the rest of the day after a waterchange... This is to reduce stress. And as we all know,STRESS can and will cause BIG problems.

By teeing the together you could be restricting thier flow rate...I would just figure a way to run both hoses into your sump...

Originally posted by slothy flip the upside down and shake all the air outa em.. Sorry I missed this till now.But what slothy said is probably the cause.. You most likly have air trapped in the powerhead.

Any rock you put in the tank can become live rock in a few months provided it is #1,marine tenk safe...And#2,is porous to provide home to bacteria...

Are you testing your own water,or is a LFS telling you the water "seems normal"??? At any rate,there is something seriously wrong with that tank,,,Or the fish you are buying.. What kind of salt did you use????

Ialso have about 15lbs of "rubble rock"in mine.Rubble is the small broken piaces that can be found at the bottom of the live rockholding tanks of some LFS's and online vendors...It is usually very cheap,if not free....

Two low powered heaters is allways better than one big heater...Say you have a 300watt heater in a 55,and it malfunctions,,,Sticking in the on position..It will take a couple of hours to heat the tank and kill everything...If you had two 100 watt heaters in the same tank,and one of them stuck...

A water change is not really necisary yet.Not till the nitrates start to get around 30...You could add some trace element suppliments like Coral-Viteor similar product... Acleanup crew is also not needed till there is something in the tank to clean...

Sponges are #1 on angels favorite food list...

Not important at this time...By the way,normal/idealtank tempis more like 76,,,not 84....

74 is no problem..Hell,I wish I could keep mine at 74.. I now see by your signature that your tank is only about a month old...This alone could account for the lingering ammonia reading.Some new setups have this ammoproblem.My 130 did when I first set it up. Just be sure not to addany more fish...

To properly test it's stability,you will need more in it than just rock and sand.There must be some type of bioload(fish) or the nitrafying bacteria will eventually die off...A sehorse would work,,,But just shrimp probably would not...Inverts by themselves offer little to no bioload to a tank...

I wasn't able to make this oneb ecause of opening day of duck season...Let us know when the next one comes up..I'd liove to go...

Originally posted by Sal T. Nutz Great idea, lets sacrifice fish for our own selfish purposes. Well that was totally uncalled for...No reply needed(or wanted) Nutz,,

The one thing I see wrong to me is that 300 watt heater..That is a bit overkill for a 55...Immagine what would happen if it was to get stuck in the ON position( this happens alot)...Your tank would overheat and kill everything in an hour or two...You would be much better off with a 200,,,or two...