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you are going to move your sand or get new sand? new rock? assuming you are going to move almost everything i would take the fish and coral and put them in buckets or rubbermaids with powerheads running (possibly heater too) and then move everything, let it settle and then drop in livestock -...

that is green hair algae, and stuff will grow back there. if it gets to impede down flowm then just manually remove it. otherwise, let it be and it will perform some fuge-type functionality by exporting nutrients... if it grows in your DT then it can become more of a problem. with leathers...

getting a good understanding of alkalinity and calcium is a good thing for you to do, but you dont really need to worry about it untill you start putting LPS and SPS corals in your tank. if you are not going to have any then dont stress about it because calcium is a none issue and alkalinty...

you might be able to scratch it off, it usually very hard and just a coloration. almost no difference in feel from the rock itself. it will grow on your glass eventually and it will take a bit of elbow grease to scrub it off. i forgot to tell you a trick. when you have a new tank and a rock...

sold!

lol!

yes, as before, it is definitely corraline. coral and coralline growth is always most apparent when you leave for a little bit!

how long has the tank been up and running? you say fine but what are your parameters at specifically? were you including sponge in the diet? everything seems ok on the surface, and you may not have done anything wrong as the fish may have come home with a parasite of some kind or was caught...

tripp - it seems the trick with them is to keep them off the sand. the sand irritates the outer flesh that touches the ground and stops growth from what i have read.

golgi i think you are stressing about this for no reason you have a Tek T-5 , a great choice. you dont really need to get into the par value emitted by each bulb. I am assuming your rig has each bulb individually reflected, not one big reflector behind them all. that being the case, as i...

i have never heard of painting inside? has anyone done this and kept a reef after? i have used spray paint once to paint the back of a QT tank a deep blue. it works pretty decently but can chip off easily if you are not careful.

yes, PAR is the main thing to really compare lighting systems, and is why MH and T-5 are the best for coral because they have the highest PAR. you dont even need actinic bulbs at all, they are just supplemental and bring out nice colors. same may make arguments that it stimulated certain...

it was originally in the right place

hey big, maybe my evolution theory will spark a 10 page religious debate!

lol PAR is different then K. K is Kelvin and is the "color temperature" 20k being blue, 12k white, 10k yellow 6500 k getting into the reds... the mixing of these will give you different effects on your tanks look. PAR is a good thing to know, it is really the standardizing factor across all...

i have not heard great things about berlin. look into Aqua-C brand for that size tank.

evolution of the [.] . , o O (_) <()> ><))>

hmm i dont know bulbs by brands and model names by heart, but i have a few of those bulbs. what is the K value for them all? in the end it is pretty much about your preference. there will be only slight differences in coral growth rates after that.

nice. i like the fox coral.

nigerbang told you already , post #2. increase flow - biggest and easiest thing. manually syphon , reduce feeding , reduce lighting period, use only RO/DI water, no tap. what are your phosphates at?