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I picked up a few different timers on a few different occasions.... but my favorite is a regular analog timer ($12) that has two outletts on either side of it.... So i just plugged my Display tank and frag tank into that... and used a different timer for refugium/sump try to find a dual analog...

Originally Posted by meowzer Really...OK....I use them alternately also, but if that is true, I won't get anymore THANKS HEYYYY...can I give them to my FW fish.....the cichlids or the tropicals You can use them with both types of the freshwater fish. IF they are African Cichlid Mbuna than you...

Originally Posted by rlablan Oh really now.. come on! If you can prove that you have claimed every penny that has ever crossed through your fingers... then you have room to talk! That is so not what this is about... and I guarantee you have done something similar.... we all have... it was...

Originally Posted by deejeff442 i am with bulldog i own a concrete company and mostly do work for homeowners.go to thier home measure up and give a price. i would say 50-60% of the time they ask ifthats the best i can do. i never get insulted as i know the custom decrative work i do is a bit...

Originally Posted by Stoss Your frogspawn looks great. What is your setup? yea, more specifically what is your lighting set up? That is amazing growth!

Originally Posted by ophiura You can use buffer, IF it is needed. The issue is most people throw pH buffer in - which is often an akalinity buffer, and pay no attention to calcium, alkalinity and sometimes the variability of pH. So they are causing significant harm without realizing it. pH...

If your rock work does not bode well for stacking/shelfing you should try to trade in some of it for better pieces at your LFS. you need to get a solid base that spreads pressure evenly across your bottom piece of glass. its good to have several triangular bases of rocks (the less rock to sand...

Originally Posted by Posiden Well, that could be a good thing I guess. You will have lots of room to do anything you need to do in the sump or in the refug. like add a GFIC if you havent done that already... I had everything in place and filled with water when i realized that i didnt have a...

you could try adding a Hang on Back filter with a standard cartridge on it for a few days just to catch the free floating particles that wont settle and then remove it. It worked wonders for me when i first started my tank.

I recently read that you need to let newly mixed saltwater stir and airate for a full 24 hours before doing a water change? For the past year this has been my water change routine. 1.) pour desired level of salt mix into empty bucket. 2.) Fill bucket 1/4 way with r/o water 3.) vigorously mix...

i would say use the search function... this has been covered 1,000's of times. take in all the information you can and make an educated decision for yourself... I can't believe people even respond to these questions with such politeness.... this forum is full of people with big hearts and...

has he kept a data log chart of those readings over a period of time or was that just a one time thing? fluctuations in any of those params can reek havoc... maybe its a disease/parasite he has yet to identify... were they recently new introductions to the tank or has he had all those fish for...

buy a big vase and a beta or a gold fish to take care of... that will keep your mind off of the saltwater tank for long enough to get everything where it needs to be

ummm you best be buffering your top off water.... R/O water is extremely soft and usually has a PH around 4.

Originally Posted by Clownfanatic55 I use tap water for my water changes but I dechlorinate a day before.. there is your problem... Check you phosphate levels, i bet they are UP THERE! If you cant afford to buy 5 gallons at a time... save up and buy a basic RO unit for < $100 it is well worth...

5 gallons once a month is not enough in the water change department.. you should be doing that once a week... and your calcium is a bit low..

like you said in your last post..... just scrape your existing corraline off with a razor blade and break it up into as many tiny pieces as possible... this will help immensly in its propogation

pvc cement... but on that top pipe that comes out of the drill hole, i used aquarium sealant because i wanted to be able to remove it if ever needed, and if i would have used pvc cement there than i would have to actually cut the pvc to remove it... this way i can just cut back the aquarium...

$20 bucks for my drill hole..... WELL WORTH IT OVER A P.O.S OVER FLOW BOX FOR CLOSE TO $80 no cracks no problems and im quite happy with the results over a year later

floating the bag for an hour is way over kill.... the small amount of water in that bag will temperature adjust at 15 minutes max... i'm not saying you shouldnt drip and slowly acclimate for a long time, im just saying that if you float the bag in the water for an hour without opening it you are...