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Pardon my ignorance, but what does GSP stand for? Its not in the acronym stciky in new hobbyists......Thanks.

I was reading the list of ingredients in this product and noticed it contains .0001%. From what I have understand, copper is BAD unless treating a fish in a bare tank for parasites/disease. Will using this product regularly add enough copper to eventually wipe out a tank or cause any other problems?

PC lighting is in its own "class" the bulbs are generally U shaped, with the pins at only one end. They can have actinic on one leg of the U and 10k on the other leg. Sort of two bulbs in one. They aren't VHO at all. VHO is derived from normal flourescent tubes, whereas PC is semi-new technology.

Yeah, its never happened to me, but I would think that a decently well made tank would only fail if they screwed up in QA at the factory and sent a tank out defective, or if the tank was not perfectly level on its stand and blew out from that stress. Or if it was on a wobbly stand and somehow it...

Every filled glass tank I have seen bows at least SLIGHTLY, if you look down the front from one end you can see it. Its only when you can push it back in that you need to worry. I've had a perfecto 55 gallon tank from petsmart for about 5 or 6 years for my freshwater setup, and its got fairly...

If you have a Super Wal-mart you might look in there for one of those Culligan Water dispensers with the jugs next to it, cheap water and its RO and uv sterilized to boot. I used to use it till my LFS got an RO/DI setup, buy my water there now.

I agree with surfnturf, if your budget allows it, try to go the route he said. A 55 watt pc will give you 5 and a half watts a gallon, which is enough to keep most any soft coral, and perhaps a few hardy LPS corals. If you do get one, get one of the bulbs thats half actinic, and half 10k.

I don't know how you might reduce the flow, but if its not disturbing the sand or stressing any of the fish or corals in your tank, the water flow shouldn't be a problem. LOTS of water flow in a natural reef.

When I had a 29 gallon salt tank (my first) I put a Seaclone 100 skimmer on it. Runs fair when stock, but after you run it a while, you might get the urge to modify it like I eventually did to make it run a bit better. Here is the link to how to do it...

You probably don't have enough wattage to keep anything except maybe some shrooms, but an actinic 03, and perhaps a 10k.

Its dead phtyoplankton, so probably has less nutrional value than live stuff like DT's. Any uneaten will also add nutrients that will have to be removed or filtered or otherwise taken care of. The DT's from what I have read is live so will not do that as bad.

The frozen brines will work till you get him something with more substance like the silversides. As for the light, it may be barely enough to maintain the animal, but it probably will not grow any bigger than it is now.

I read that you are using distilled water for topoffs. Thats probably not a good idea, lots of water distilleries use copper tubing which can lead to copper being in the water. Copper + inverts = dead inverts.

The cork will likely rot, and might leech chemicals like tannic acid into the water. How about a piece of foam rubber?

Pretty much everything except the aragonite and tank would be pretty reasonable online. Might get your lr from your local store too, 4.99 a pound is FAIRLY average online, and a heck of a deal at a lfs especially if its good looking rock. Cuz you get to see what you are buying.

Could you let me know where you found those prices? I might get myself a pair of 100 watt MH for my tank. email me. gregzbobo@directvinternet.com Thanks.

Are the bulbs fully seated in the endcaps? From what you say of burn marks on the endcaps, there is alot of resistance in there, maybe from the bulbs either not fully seating, or the wiring connections in there being poor. That could cause enough resistance to damage ballasts and perhaps damage...

What is the wattage of the bulbs you are using? If they are higher than what the ballast is designed to handle, the bulbs will be underdriven and the ballast will overheat.

2 Maxijets for 72 dollars? They are available on another website other than swf.com for 21 bucks a piece. Not a bad price for the live rock though, compared to the prices around where I live. They are also asking too much for the heater. swf.com has a Sealife Systems NV75 skimmer for 95 dollars...

That should be plenty. The pumps and lighting ought to keep the tank warm enough, as long as the room the tank is in is kept decently warm that is. :) btw, I have read anywhere from 2 to 5 watts of heater per gallon of tank, as a general guide.