Flower's Sump/Fuge Build

acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Quote:Originally Posted by Flower http:///forum/thread/380517/flower-s-sump-fuge-build/140#post_3312962
 

 
You mention the water leaving the skimmer, that I have that much correct...LOL ...what about the refugium? And how could you do the two tanks with only one overflow?  I guess I will need you to make some arrows.
You were totally correct in your description.... I was just being technical somewhat. You understand how it works!!!!!!
The single bulkhead overflow would work just the same. We would/could come out o the bulkhead with a single pipe and then split it from there instead of 2 separate lines. We just need to look careful at the pump specs, and sure Corey will give us the low down on that.
 
flower

flower

Well-Known Member
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/380517/flower-s-sump-fuge-build/160#post_3312966
You were totally correct in your description.... I was just being technical somewhat. You understand how it works!!!!!!
The single bulkhead overflow would work just the same. We would/could come out o the bulkhead with a single pipe and then split it from there instead of 2 separate lines. We just need to look careful at the pump specs, and sure Corey will give us the low down on that.

 
I understand..

 
 
nNow tell me how deep the sand needs to be in the refugium...I have heard 4 inches, then 6 inches ..what would give me the most benifit?
 
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
The way I see it, there should be plenty of money in the budget for 1 of the 2 following choices of pump. Assuming we're looking to achieve 3-5 times the turnover rate of the system through the sump which would be ideal. I've been looking at the Mag7's or the Eheim Compact 2000.
 
The Mag 7
 
420 GPH - Approx 5' head pressure = 4.8 times turnover rate. Can be adjust lower by using a ball valve on the return line.
 
70 watts - power consumption
 
Outlet/Inlet size - 1/2" mpt x 1/2" fpt
.
Generally a good pump for the price. Very popular. This pump is a little bit cheaper but have been known to have start up problems and also transferes some heat to the tank.
 
 
Eheim Power Compact 2000
 
265-528 GPH - at upto 7' of head pressure. Built in flow control which is easily adjustible to suit specific needs. Would give us the 3-5 times turnover rate, no problem.
 
32 watts - power consumption
 
Outlet/Inlet size - 3/4" hose barb x 3/4" hose barb
 
These pumps are a little more expensive but are great pumps for the money. Brand is very well known for it's reliability and respected in the hobby. Ultra quiet and virtually no extra heat trasfere to the tank. Uses less than half the amount of electricity than the Mag. Nice compact size.
 
Average cost is about $20 more than the MAG 7.
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
I stole one of Al's drawings to show Flower the basic idea of how the plumbing will run. The overflow will probably have to go on whatever side of the tank that gives her the easiest access to it for maintenance. And going by some of the pictures that she's posted I'm assuming that it will be the right side of the tank. A CAD designer, I am not!

 
 
flower

flower

Well-Known Member
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/380517/flower-s-sump-fuge-build/160#post_3313034
I stole one of Al's drawings to show Flower the basic idea of how the plumbing will run. The overflow will probably have to go on whatever side of the tank that gives her the easiest access to it for maintenance. And going by some of the pictures that she's posted I'm assuming that it will be the right side of the tank. A CAD designer, I am not!

 


 
Corey,
 
Well you may not be CAD dsigner but that is not bad at all. What is the Y dohickie made of? PVC pipe I assume, so do I just feed the hose to it or do I need some kind of glue to make sure it won't leak? I ask because I would always think silicone for a fish tank and I realize now it does not stick to plastic. So I need a name brand to look for not just a response of glue.
 
 
LOL...You should be a salesman for Eheim...because I have to tell you between the two, that would just be the logical choice. I can sense the little purr of personal choice when you talk about it. When it comes to equipment I'm lost...so what you guys decide will be what I will have.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Depth on sandbed is debatable!!!!! I am not, and have not ever been a fan of DSB's. Maybe someone who is will advise!!!!
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Quote:Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/380517/flower-s-sump-fuge-build/160#post_3313034
I stole one of Al's drawings to show Flower the basic idea of how the plumbing will run. The overflow will probably have to go on whatever side of the tank that gives her the easiest access to it for maintenance. And going by some of the pictures that she's posted I'm assuming that it will be the right side of the tank. A CAD designer, I am not!

 

Looks good Corey!!!!!
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/380517/flower-s-sump-fuge-build/160#post_3313076
Corey are you suggesting hard plumbing or tubing?
I'm thinking that for the sake of ease that we'll probably just go with some tubing. I know that the cpr overflows come with the hosebarbed bulkheads. But instead of using the tubing that they provide (if they do provide it with no extra charge) then I figure we could just go with some 1" i.d. tubing. Simple plug, clamp and play. That is unless we want to swap out the bulkead with a slip and see if Flower would be willing to do some spa flex? What do you guys think?
 
Edit...actually, after watching their video I think the bulkheads on the overflow might be slip.
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flower http:///forum/thread/380517/flower-s-sump-fuge-build/160#post_3313059
 

 
Corey,
 
Well you may not be CAD dsigner but that is not bad at all. What is the Y dohickie made of? PVC pipe I assume, so do I just feed the hose to it or do I need some kind of glue to make sure it won't leak? I ask because I would always think silicone for a fish tank and I realize now it does not stick to plastic. So I need a name brand to look for not just a response of glue.
 
 
LOL...You should be a salesman for Eheim...because I have to tell you between the two, that would just be the logical choice. I can sense the little purr of personal choice when you talk about it. When it comes to equipment I'm lost...so what you guys decide will be what I will have.
Hey, Flower. I'm still thinking about what type of plumbing to go with. We know that the clear tubing is the easiest to go with as you pretty much just plug it an play, so if that it was you feel most comfortable with then we can deffinately do that.
 
They also make the stuff called Spa Flex (which I know Shawn is a fan of as am I after he turned me onto it) which is essentially flexible pvc. It is assembled using standard pvc primer and glue. It's nice because it's flexible like the clear vinyl tubing but it's a little more durable. It's fairly easy to cut to size with some heavy duty kitchen scissors or utility knife. It also has a very slick linning inside of it so water travels through it very efficiently. It's nice stuff. A little more pricey but well worth it if you're up for the challenge.
 
Then ofcourse we always have regular pvc that we can go with. Or a combination of pvc for the drains and tubing for the return. This also takes some assembly and requires cutting the pieces of pipe with a saw to fit just right so It's a little more involved. Also requires standard pvc glue and primer to assemble.
 
The Y or the T whichever we end up going with depends on the plumbing. If you use the clear vinyl tubing then it will be a hose barb fitting that you just plug the hose on to it. If we go with pvc or the flexible pvc stuff then yes it will require the pvc primer and glue.
 
So I'd just like you to give it some though and whatever you want to do then that's what we'll do. We can walk you through whatever you choose.
 
flower

flower

Well-Known Member
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/380517/flower-s-sump-fuge-build/160#post_3313115
Hey, Flower. I'm still thinking about what type of plumbing to go with. We know that the clear tubing is the easiest to go with as you pretty much just plug it an play, so if that it was you feel most comfortable with then we can deffinately do that.
 
They also make the stuff called Spa Flex (which I know Shawn is a fan of as am I after he turned me onto it) which is essentially flexible pvc. It is assembled using standard pvc primer and glue. It's nice because it's flexible like the clear vinyl tubing but it's a little more durable. It's fairly easy to cut to size with some heavy duty kitchen scissors or utility knife. It also has a very slick linning inside of it so water travels through it very efficiently. It's nice stuff. A little more pricey but well worth it if you're up for the challenge.
 
Then ofcourse we always have regular pvc that we can go with. Or a combination of pvc for the drains and tubing for the return. This also takes some assembly and requires cutting the pieces of pipe with a saw to fit just right so It's a little more involved. Also requires standard pvc glue and primer to assemble.
 
The Y or the T whichever we end up going with depends on the plumbing. If you use the clear vinyl tubing then it will be a hose barb fitting that you just plug the hose on to it. If we go with pvc or the flexible pvc stuff then yes it will require the pvc primer and glue.
 
So I'd just like you to give it some though and whatever you want to do then that's what we'll do. We can walk you through whatever you choose.

 
My problem is the strength of my hands. I live with my mother, its just us. No man around at all. I don't even have the strength in my hands to turn a screwdriver. I can't use power tools. It's hard but I can cut something with a knife (clear tubing). So when you talk about sawing something it's beyond my ability. So regular PVC is out.
 
On the issue of the spa flex... I googled it...way too pricey. Maybe when I get more cash... I can always switch can't I ?...but for now lets stay with what I know I can work with and already have plenty of...cheap clear hose. So what is a hose barb fitting?
 
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flower http:///forum/thread/380517/flower-s-sump-fuge-build/160#post_3313119
 

 
My problem is the strength of my hands. I live with my mother, its just us. No man around at all. I don't even have the strength in my hands to turn a screwdriver. I can't use power tools. It's hard but I can cut something with a knife (clear tubing). So when you talk about sawing something it's beyond my ability. So regular PVC is out.
 
On the issue of the spa flex... I googled it...way too pricey. Maybe when I get more cash... I can always switch can't I ?...but for now lets stay with what I know I can work with and already have plenty of...cheap clear hose. So what is a hose barb fitting?
 
10/4
 
That's pretty much what I was thinking and I was leaning in that direction to start with. I just wanted to let you know what options were out there so that you could choose for yourself. The vinyl tubing will work just fine.
 
Hose barb fittings are the type of fittings that one would use with vinyl tubing.
 
 
flower

flower

Well-Known Member
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/380517/flower-s-sump-fuge-build/160#post_3313123
10/4
 
That's pretty much what I was thinking and I was leaning in that direction to start with. I just wanted to let you know what options were out there so that you could choose for yourself. The vinyl tubing will work just fine.
 
Hose barb fittings are the type of fittings that one would use on vinyl tubing.
 


 
Oh I see...the ribs hold it..I can do that!
 
 
al&burke

al&burke

Active Member
It is very easy Flower, If you put the end of the vinyl tube that you are going to connect in a cup of hot (boiling water) it will go on the barb very easily. All you have to do is just put a hose clamp on so that the hose won't slip off under the pressure of the water, especially on the return line.
 
 
 
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