getting very angry with my lfs

posiden

Active Member
Ok, with some assumptions on my part I have come up with a little info. This is gonna melt your mind.
As mentioned, when the system is not running but full of water. Your DT will have a water level in it that is right at the bottom of the teeth on the OF. When you fire up the return pump water will then spill into the OF box and then out the drain pipe. The extra water in the system will be seen when the system is running. You will see this extra water at your OF. I mentioned that teeth provide extra resistance and therefore causing more water to deal with when the pump shuts off for what ever reason. After a little math......your tank runs about 4.783 gallons of water for every 1" in height. This is kinda important to know because of the back flow question. Here's why. With your OF with the teeth on it, it will cause the water to rise about 5/8-11/16" before it levels off and runs steady. That is about 3.1 gallons of water. So......you need to plan on about 3 gallons draining from the display tank JUST in the OF side of things.
Your refug tank is going to be running a max capacity with very few ounces to spare or worry about. It wont contribute to any back flow water into the sump. To speak of. That's if you split the drain line. Your wont be running much through there.
Now, you need to look at the return line. Just the pipe alone will hold about .115 gallons (or 14.72oz) Not too big of a deal there. But that will change if the output of the return line is farther under water then the bottom part of the teeth on the OF. So, if you keep the outputs up high.....you wont need to worry about this "much". With a DT level running about 5/8" above the bottom of the teeth, your outputs "should" be easy to place in a safe place.
I wouldn't really worry too much about the amount of water in the drain line. It will be minimal. Again, only about the 14oz. at the most. Your drain will need air in it to remain quiet during operation. You will want the water to coat the walls of the pipe. That's why its been mentioned to have a bigger then needed drain. Which is why I mentioned the Herbie. Full siphons don't need or use air to run silent.
Your 20L is going to be the one that holds all of the back flow. Going by its dimensions, internally. Cause I have one here sitting on the floor. It will hold a max of 17.25 gallons. Giving you 1.5 gallons of water for every 1" in height. So figuring a back flow on the minimum side of 3.5 gallons of water. You will need 2.34" (I would figure 2.5-3") of full tank that is unobstructed for the head height needed. This is a bare minimum IMO. A little extra wiggle room is always welcome. So your baffles at 9" tall all the way across is the very tallest your gonna want your baffles to be IMO.
On a side note. I mentioned about teeth causing more back flow issues. If you were running a smooth OF (no teeth) the water level would only rise by about 5/16" or 1.49 gallons of water. A little less then half the amount of water to worry about. However, like anything else. That route has its pros and cons. It wont keep you livestock out of the OF like teeth will. You take the good with the bad.
I'll draw something up for you. No problem. It will be a pic of paper cause I'm luck to be able to type on these computers. Take care man.
Edit a day later; I forgot to mention that this is all based on 650ish GPH. If you run more water things will change and the level will rise a bit more. Also the opposite will happen if you run lees water. So, depending on how big of a pump you buy and how much you actually get from it comes into play.
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
That's good info.

Sounds like you're going to be good, Sparty. Oh wait...I'm not supposed to be here untill Monday. Haha!
 

meowzer

Moderator
Originally Posted by Sparty059
http:///forum/post/3295319
I said I wouldn't but I just want to work on a few things... I know I told everyone not to check the thread, so if you don't respond until Monday that's fine. I had a chance to take apart the aquarium. This is what the overflow tube looks like...
Attachment 245227
So should I still replace this? It looks like the people before me bought this from a store... but you are all saying to get a tube that will be taller without any holes in it. Is this still what you all feel to be correct?
I'm going to keep a short post since I don't plan on doing much research or work today... as I said I wouldn't!

AHAHAHA...YOU'RE HOOKED....lol...WELCOME TO THE ADDICTION
 

sparty059

Active Member
Originally Posted by meowzer
http:///forum/post/3295397
AHAHAHA...YOU'RE HOOKED....lol...WELCOME TO THE ADDICTION

Ah, yes. I must admit... I am! With that being said, I went to Home Depot and picked up PVC pipe, adapters, tephlon tape, cutters, the whole nine yards... this is what I have assembled under my aquarium... let me know if there are any issues, any problems or anything I may have missed and need to add still... (I am aware I am missing the return pump... and the pipe that will lead to it... I'm waiting for it to come in the mail... I'm also aware that I need to add my baffles too... those will be here tomorrow or Sunday). Anyway... let me know what you all think!
Attachment 245251Attachment 245252Attachment 245253Attachment 245254Attachment 245255




 

sparty059

Active Member
Originally Posted by meowzer
http:///forum/post/3295749
What return pump did you decide on? (sorry if I missed it above)
The Eheim 1262... I read all the reviews also and everyone said they had their pump for 12 years and it was the best they've ever had and it was still going strong... so I felt you know what... if I stay in this hobby for a long time, I might as well get one that will live longer than me!
 

meowzer

Moderator
Well I hope you will live longer then 12 years....LOL...
I have a mag18 in my sump...I don't know if Eheim makes one that big
 

sparty059

Active Member
Ugh, people I take back what I said! Don't wait until Monday! Look at it now! Let me know if this is properly set up! Once I get the pump and the baffles I am loading this sucker up with RO water, live sand, and live rock so I can let the cycle begin!
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Looks pretty good, Sparty. The way the T is set up may be a little restrictive but it probably won't be much of a problem. One thing I would do on the drains where they drop into the tanks is lower them to where the water lines will be and put a 90 on them to where half of the fitting is under the water and the top half is out of the water. You will get less splashing that way and won't be as noisey. And I would aim the one in the fuge away from the side that has the drains and point the other one on the skimmer side towards the skimmer.
Just my opinion.
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Oh...and just to be safe...maybe put a brace under the 3/4" drains. Since they are so long and will have a little bit of weight in them it might be worth while to support them. Something simple like a piece of pipe going across the sump tank from one side to the other right underneath the drains with a couple of zip ties to hold them would probably work. It may not be necissary but I just recommend to use your judgment and go with what you think on if it needs it or not.
 

sparty059

Active Member
Originally Posted by 2Quills
http:///forum/post/3295770
Looks pretty good, Sparty. The way the T is set up may be a little restrictive but it probably won't be much of a problem. One thing I would do on the drains where they drop into the tanks is lower them to where the water lines will be and put a 90 on them to where half of the fitting is under the water and the top half is out of the water. You will get less splashing that way and won't be as noisey.
So you're saying I should have a T connector like how you're showing in your picture? That seems easy and logical enough.
Originally Posted by 2Quills
http:///forum/post/3295770
And I would aim the one in the fuge away from the side that has the drains
What do you mean here? Right now I have it aiming directly down... am I misunderstanding this part?
Originally Posted by 2Quills

http:///forum/post/3295770
and point the other one on the skimmer side towards the skimmer.
This is also pointing directly down... should it be angled? Is that what you're saying? Also, how do I know how tall the skimmer needs to sit if it does have a height limit? I'm confused how the skimmer is going to work... is it going to be completely submerged (up to however tall I have the water height in the tank) and it will just suck the water in and spit it out?
 

meowzer

Moderator
Originally Posted by 2Quills
http:///forum/post/3295771
Oh...and just to be safe...maybe put a brace under the 3/4" drains. Since they are so long and will have a little bit of weight in them it might be worth while to support them. Something simple like a piece of pipe going across the sump tank from one side to the other right underneath the drains with a couple of zip ties to hold them would probably work. It may not be necissary but I just recommend to use your judgment and go with what you think on if it needs it or not.
What do you think about tieing them to the brace above them????
 

sparty059

Active Member
Originally Posted by meowzer
http:///forum/post/3295775
What do you think about tieing them to the brace above them????
Thanks for pointing this message out meowzer... I didn't see it before you quoted it. I meant to mention that... I am going to be adding some wire or hangers that will be drilled into the studs and will be holding every single pipe for that just incase situation... the last thing I need is for one of the pipes to fall off and end up spilling all over my floor.
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
QUOTE=Sparty059;3295774]So you're saying I should have a T connector like how you're showing in your picture? That seems easy and logical enough.
Not necissarily like the picture no. That was just a test set up when I was leak checking that sump. I actually wouldn't worry about this part, Sparty. The water should still drain fine. If you want you could install a ball valve to control how the flow going to the fuge. It's just a matter of personal oppinion. The way you have it should work.
What do you mean here? Right now I have it aiming directly down... am I misunderstanding this part?
This is why I posted the pic. Instead of having the drains going directly under the water surface you could put a 90 degree fitting on there with half of it submerged and the other have above the water. This way you will get some air in there and the drains will drain more freely.
This is also pointing directly down... should it be angled? Is that what you're saying? Also, how do I know how tall the skimmer needs to sit if it does have a height limit? I'm confused how the skimmer is going to work... is it going to be completely submerged (up to however tall I have the water height in the tank) and it will just suck the water in and spit it out?[/QUOTE]
Again, just sugguesting doing the same thing with main drain line as I suggested for the one on the fuge. Aim the 90 degree fitting towards the skimmer. The other two drains from the fuge should be fine but I would keep them just above the water line and not below it.
The skimmer will be submerged upto the water line that is correct. yes, it will suck it in and spit it out. You may not even need to run it for a while. Infact I probably wouldn't even start using it untill you're ready to add fish.
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by Sparty059
http:///forum/post/3295778
Thanks for pointing this message out meowzer... I didn't see it before you quoted it. I meant to mention that... I am going to be adding some wire or hangers that will be drilled into the studs and will be holding every single pipe for that just incase situation... the last thing I need is for one of the pipes to fall off and end up spilling all over my floor.
Yeah you can brace them however you want. Helps to take the stress off of the bulkheads and the glass. It's cheap insurance.
 

sparty059

Active Member
Ok. Sounds good! I will go ahead and add those T pipes for the skimmer area and the refug area. Also, I didn't post a picture but I changed the O/F pipe... I removed that one that I took a picture of in page 20 and added just a straight 1" PVC pipe that is about a foot short from the top... do you think I should make it taller? I have PLENTY of pipe left and can make some extra fixes.
 

sparty059

Active Member
Also, I know this is a ways away, but I want to know if I can keep my hopes up... am I able to add sea anemone when I have a mature tank... or will the lights prevent me from having them?
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by Sparty059
http:///forum/post/3295782
Ok. Sounds good! I will go ahead and add those T pipes for the skimmer area and the refug area. Also, I didn't post a picture but I changed the O/F pipe... I removed that one that I took a picture of in page 20 and added just a straight 1" PVC pipe that is about a foot short from the top... do you think I should make it taller? I have PLENTY of pipe left and can make some extra fixes.
If it were me I would bring it up a little higher closer to the teeth. Otherwise it might be a little noise hearing the sound of water falling all the way down into the O/F. If the pipe was higher it wouldnt have so far to fall and will be alot quieter.
Just to be clear on the fitting that I'm talking about in the picture. It's a 90 degree elbow...not a T fitting. And the thing with the red handle is a ball valve. It will allow you to control the amount of flowing going into the fuge. Some people like to tweak their flows. Have a little more going one way and a little less going the other. Personally I would rather have a little less water going to the fuge because that means the water that does go in there goes a little slower and give the macro algea a little more time to help remove nitrates.
Nice choice on the pump by the way. That's the same one I will be purchasing.
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by meowzer
http:///forum/post/3295786
Sorry....but the lights will prevent you from havng an anemone :(
Agreed...anemones need strong lighting. The ones you have now aren't going to be able to keep one alive for long.
 
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