My 29 BioCube UPDATED PICS

perfectdark

perfectdark

Active Member
Originally Posted by Scopus Tang
http:///forum/post/2624380
Yeah he gets them every so many days on the same rock every time, but after 10 days (or so ~ can't really remember), they release and float. At that point he figures most become fish food or go into the sump. Never been able to raise to hatching. I keep trying to get him to catch them at release or just prior to, but no luck so far. Why do the parents need to go with the eggs?

Dont quote me on this but I believe they need to stay with them to help regulate them in some way. Not sure if its temperature... I maybe wayyyy off but something tells me I remember reading you can remove the parents like 2 days before they are ready to hatch.
 
scopus tang

scopus tang

Active Member
Originally Posted by PerfectDark
http:///forum/post/2624394
Dont quote me on this but I believe they need to stay with them to help regulate them in some way. Not sure if its temperature... I maybe wayyyy off but something tells me I remember reading you can remove the parents like 2 days before they are ready to hatch.
Interesting. Do you know how close to being ready to hatch they are when they release?
 
johnnyd

johnnyd

Member
hey PD check out my tank and let me know what you think. im getting some more LR and want to fill the sides in a little higher so will see what happends. i just ordered a true perc, sun coral orange, white bubble coral, and frogspawn.
 
bang guy

bang guy

Moderator
Originally Posted by Scopus Tang
http:///forum/post/2624426
Interesting. Do you know how close to being ready to hatch they are when they release?

The parents do three important things for the eggs, all of which can be done without the parents if you setup the hatching tank right.
1 - Aeration. The parents constantly fan and swim around the eggs. This removes the excess CO2 that tends to become concentrated around the eggs. A moderate waterflow across the eggs using an airstone can mimic this if you remove the eggs. CO2 is a toxin at high levels and it lowers the PH so it needs to be removed to keep the eggs alive.
2 - Removing Dead Eggs. The parents will eat any dead eggs they find. They smell for them around the clock. You can manually remove any eggs that look milky. If the dead eggs are not removed they will kill the eggs around them. I use a specific Bristleworm to perform this function. It can smell a dead egg the instant it dies it seems and crawls over to it and removes just the dead one. I found this by accident. It's over a foot long but doesn't seem to disturb the live eggs at all.
3 - Predator Protection. They don't allow anything to go near the eggs. This is easy to do by just not having any predators in the egg tank.
To time the hatch just look for most of the eggs having a silvery look to them. This is caused by the maturing of the eyes. They start reflecting light once the eyes form. Once this happens the eggs will hatch that night.
 
perfectdark

perfectdark

Active Member
Originally Posted by Bang Guy
http:///forum/post/2625289
The parents do three important things for the eggs, all of which can be done without the parents if you setup the hatching tank right.
1 - Aeration. The parents constantly fan and swim around the eggs. This removes the excess CO2 that tends to become concentrated around the eggs. A moderate waterflow across the eggs using an airstone can mimic this if you remove the eggs. CO2 is a toxin at high levels and it lowers the PH so it needs to be removed to keep the eggs alive.
2 - Removing Dead Eggs. The parents will eat any dead eggs they find. They smell for them around the clock. You can manually remove any eggs that look milky. If the dead eggs are not removed they will kill the eggs around them. I use a specific Bristleworm to perform this function. It can smell a dead egg the instant it dies it seems and crawls over to it and removes just the dead one. I found this by accident. It's over a foot long but doesn't seem to disturb the live eggs at all.
3 - Predator Protection. They don't allow anything to go near the eggs. This is easy to do by just not having any predators in the egg tank.
To time the hatch just look for most of the eggs having a silvery look to them. This is caused by the maturing of the eyes. They start reflecting light once the eyes form. Once this happens the eggs will hatch that night.
WOW My thread has been visited by BangGuy... I am truly honored...
LOL Thanks for the info

And to all you diary keepers who he hasnt visited...

LOL jk jk...
 
paintballer768

paintballer768

Active Member
Originally Posted by PerfectDark
http:///forum/post/2625298
WOW My thread has been visited by BangGuy... I am truly honored...
LOL Thanks for the info

And to all you diary keepers who he hasnt visited...

LOL jk jk...

LOL ouch. So watching the eggs without parents there seems like a fulltime thing
 
perfectdark

perfectdark

Active Member
I have heard that if you want to breed clownfish that its like having a 2nd job, very demanding.
Soooo, last night was sun coral feeding time. I actually tried a new method to feed them and it seemed to work well. Although depending on the size of your coral this may not be for everyone. I have a small frag, so it worked out. I took a deep tupperware container put it in my tank, put the coral in it, then put the cover on the container. There are 4 small holes drilled in the lid. I squirt some food in there, then I wait, 5 minutes goes by, I squirt water through the container swirling all the food around. This gets the coral to respond and open. Once it opens I took the container out, took off the lid and piled the mysis in the container. I could feed it as much as I wanted and it wouldnt hurt the bio load of my tank. When I was done I transfered the coral back to my tank and threw the water in the container away. My sun coral ate for 15 minutes straight last night...
I also moved a couple of pieces of LR around. There was wasted space that was irritating me so I fixed it. Now I am waiting on 2 new corals, Tub's Blue and Bam Bam Orange Zoa's...
I cant wait to get them.
 
peef

peef

Active Member
Originally Posted by PerfectDark
http:///forum/post/2625400
I have heard that if you want to breed clownfish that its like having a 2nd job, very demanding.
Soooo, last night was sun coral feeding time. I actually tried a new method to feed them and it seemed to work well. Although depending on the size of your coral this may not be for everyone. I have a small frag, so it worked out. I took a deep tupperware container put it in my tank, put the coral in it, then put the cover on the container. There are 4 small holes drilled in the lid. I squirt some food in there, then I wait, 5 minutes goes by, I squirt water through the container swirling all the food around. This gets the coral to respond and open. Once it opens I took the container out, took off the lid and piled the mysis in the container. I could feed it as much as I wanted and it wouldnt hurt the bio load of my tank. When I was done I transfered the coral back to my tank and threw the water in the container away. My sun coral ate for 15 minutes straight last night...
I also moved a couple of pieces of LR around. There was wasted space that was irritating me so I fixed it. Now I am waiting on 2 new corals, Tub's Blue and Bam Bam Orange Zoa's...
I cant wait to get them.

When I feed my sun I just use a little pippette or however its spelled and give them about 2-3 mysis. I also mix in the marine quizine carnivore food so they get a mixture. They never drop anything and this way I can target feed every tiny little polyp. Sounds time consuming but with my sun coral having over 90 polyps now it only takes about 5-10 minutes.
Lets hope you don't lose.....wait I'm sorry, "MISPLACE" the new zoos!!!
 
scopus tang

scopus tang

Active Member
Originally Posted by Bang Guy
http:///forum/post/2625289
The parents do three important things for the eggs, all of which can be done without the parents if you setup the hatching tank right.
1 - Aeration. The parents constantly fan and swim around the eggs. This removes the excess CO2 that tends to become concentrated around the eggs. A moderate waterflow across the eggs using an airstone can mimic this if you remove the eggs. CO2 is a toxin at high levels and it lowers the PH so it needs to be removed to keep the eggs alive.
2 - Removing Dead Eggs. The parents will eat any dead eggs they find. They smell for them around the clock. You can manually remove any eggs that look milky. If the dead eggs are not removed they will kill the eggs around them. I use a specific Bristleworm to perform this function. It can smell a dead egg the instant it dies it seems and crawls over to it and removes just the dead one. I found this by accident. It's over a foot long but doesn't seem to disturb the live eggs at all.
3 - Predator Protection. They don't allow anything to go near the eggs. This is easy to do by just not having any predators in the egg tank.
To time the hatch just look for most of the eggs having a silvery look to them. This is caused by the maturing of the eyes. They start reflecting light once the eyes form. Once this happens the eggs will hatch that night.
Cool! Thanks for the Info Bang!
 
scopus tang

scopus tang

Active Member
Hey PD, I saw in your thread that you were feeding a nonphotosynthetic coral by removing it and feeding it in a plastic container. I have a orange carnation that started going down hill on me, and started using your method. The carnation appears to be coming back. Was curious if you still have yours, and if not, how long were you able to maintain it that way. Thanks.
 
perfectdark

perfectdark

Active Member
Originally Posted by Scopus Tang
http:///forum/post/2639532
Hey PD, I saw in your thread that you were feeding a nonphotosynthetic coral by removing it and feeding it in a plastic container. I have a orange carnation that started going down hill on me, and started using your method. The carnation appears to be coming back. Was curious if you still have yours, and if not, how long were you able to maintain it that way. Thanks.
I had a carnation a while ago, but it didnt fare too well. I feed my sun coral the way you are describing. Actually I have 2 different ways I feed it, it depends on if I want to feed it heavily or not. But still today I feed it one of these ways and it works well. I have some diagrams of my containers I will post tomorrow.
 
scopus tang

scopus tang

Active Member
Originally Posted by PerfectDark
http:///forum/post/2642025
I had a carnation a while ago, but it didnt fare too well. I feed my sun coral the way you are describing. Actually I have 2 different ways I feed it, it depends on if I want to feed it heavily or not. But still today I feed it one of these ways and it works well. I have some diagrams of my containers I will post tomorrow.
Sorry to hear about the carnation. Mine was starting to fade also, till I started taking it out and feeding it in a plastic container, like I saw you had, and its actually starting to come back
. Looking forward to the diagrams.
 
perfectdark

perfectdark

Active Member
Ok, Scopus here are the diagrams I told you about, sorry for the lack of detail with the drawings I did them really fast, but I am sure you can get the idea. Weather or not they will work for your application I dont know, but I hope it helps.
 
perfectdark

perfectdark

Active Member
Also, I will be posting some new pics, I got some choice zoa's in a week ago. 4 frags to be exact, one is armor of gods, WOW !! eaisily 10 polyps on this piece and they are almost dime size. SaltyCrab sent me the others, they are Bam Bam oranges, tubs blue and mystery...LOL. I also got little somthin extra. One of the Tubs opened already, 2 of the bam bams are starting, but the mystery one is not ready yet. Pics will be added tonight... I hope
 
scopus tang

scopus tang

Active Member
Originally Posted by PerfectDark http:///forum/post/2643849
Ok, Scopus here are the diagrams I told you about, sorry for the lack of detail with the drawings I did them really fast, but I am sure you can get the idea. Weather or not they will work for your application I dont know, but I hope it helps.

Nice. Thanks PD, I've basically been doing method #2, but without the lid. If I get some pictures taken today, I'll post them in my reef diary. Check it out if you get a chance, the carnation has made a nice comeback.
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/320108/scopus-65gal-reef-diary
 
scout

scout

New Member
Perfect Dark
Been following along and have continued to enjoy it. I have the BC 29 as well and have struggling with whether I wanted to get better lighting than the stock set. It has been up about a year and a half, changing the bulbs out every six months. Very happy with it and how it looks but hard to stand pat. Looks like you have enjoyed the metal halides and after bouncing back and forth I think that's what I am going to get as well.
1) You have the Sunpod 150 HQI Metal Halides, correct?
2) Do you have the 20 or 24 inch lamp?
3) How many timers does it require?
4) I saw where you got a pretty good deal on yours, I haven't looked much
yet but have found the 20 inch for $248 with free shipping. Can I do
much better?
5) Anything else that I would need other than the timers? Did the fan come
it or do I need to buy a clip on? Do you use yours(fan)?
Thanks for the help
Scout
 
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