whats going wrong
- Thread starter grubsnaek
- Start date
turningtim
Active Member
The durso's will work in your tank. they will just replace the stand pipes that are already in the rear OF box. these will cut down on the toilet flushing noise from the OF b/c they regulate the air entering the system.
The pipes in the sump should be 1"-2" under the water.
Did you just cycle with LR?
The pipes in the sump should be 1"-2" under the water.
Did you just cycle with LR?
tree
Member
It sounds like your sump does not have enough water in it. Try adding more water to your sump.
Also, since you only have one divider prior to your pump, if the water is moving too fast it will cause air bubbles in that drop to the pump chamber. The pump will suck those in & cause micro bubbles. If the water is too low, the pump will form a whirlpool & suck air in causing micro bubbles. Try adding some water so that when the pump is running full blast the water is at a higher level in the pump chamber.
If adding the water doesn't help, not sure what to tell you
Also, since you only have one divider prior to your pump, if the water is moving too fast it will cause air bubbles in that drop to the pump chamber. The pump will suck those in & cause micro bubbles. If the water is too low, the pump will form a whirlpool & suck air in causing micro bubbles. Try adding some water so that when the pump is running full blast the water is at a higher level in the pump chamber.
If adding the water doesn't help, not sure what to tell you
bang guy
Moderator
Originally Posted by grubsnaek
should the water level be higher than the baffles in the sump. cause my sump level is at the hieght of the baffles and the DT is filled to the top.
The water level should be at the point where the sump won't overflow when the power goes out.
Turn off the pump, wait for the water to stop draining. From there you can almost fill the sump with saltwater.
Start the pump back up again and once it's running smoothly make a mark on the side of the sump to record the water level. This mark records the highest water level you can have without causing an overflow.
should the water level be higher than the baffles in the sump. cause my sump level is at the hieght of the baffles and the DT is filled to the top.
The water level should be at the point where the sump won't overflow when the power goes out.
Turn off the pump, wait for the water to stop draining. From there you can almost fill the sump with saltwater.
Start the pump back up again and once it's running smoothly make a mark on the side of the sump to record the water level. This mark records the highest water level you can have without causing an overflow.
grubsnaek
Active Member
see i only have the water level in the sump up to the top of the baffles. so in a power out situation my water level should be basically a full tank. so when power goes back on it drops 1-2 inches then levels out. at this point with the pump on the water level should be a couple inches above the baffles. right. cause if this is right then i do not have enough water in the system.
grubsnaek
Active Member
i didnt know that the water level was supposed to be higher than the baffles. i just kept reading this thread over and over and just finally pieced it together. i am mixing new water now. so hopefully everything works out. still need alittle info on the durso standpipe things.
grubsnaek
Active Member
well results are in and its still throttled way back. i add water to the sump. i turned it on with the ball valve wide open and almost flooded the living room. DT filled to fast. but in all seriousness. with these durso pipes i like the flow that it gives off even though its throttled back. i have other means of flow but i think it might work after all.
and right on the button. i'll be damned it does sound like a toilet flushing!!!!
and right on the button. i'll be damned it does sound like a toilet flushing!!!!